Installing a Amp for speakers in CUCV!

[SuperchargedRS]

I am getting ready to install a sound system in my CUCV, I am going to be using a 500wat Amp for the speakers (4 channel), where is the best place to tap into to, where I can get 60amps, is there anywhere on the power block on the fire wall or maybe the old military radio power cables???

Where is the best place to get the power for this amp?

Thanks,
-SuperchargedRS

 

[SuperchargedRS]

Oh yea this IS a CIVVY amp so it is not 24v.

It's a Infinity Reference 7541A
» 4-channel car amplifier
» 111 watts RMS x 4 at 4 ohms (139 watts x 4 at 2 ohms)
» 278 watts RMS x 2 bridged output at 4 ohms (4-ohm stable in bridged mode)
» front and rear variable high-/low-pass filters (32-320 Hz, 12 dB/octave)
» variable bass boost (0-12 dB at 50 Hz)
» MOSFET power supplies
» CEA-2006 compliant
» Tri-way capable (Tri-Way Crossover required)
» preamp- and speaker-level inputs
» preamp outputs
» 8-gauge power and ground leads with a 60A fuse recommended — wiring and hardware not included with amplifier
» fuse rating: 30A x 2
» 16-3/8"W x 2-11/16"H x 12-1/8"D

 

[wallew]

sdhfhdshsddhs

 

[BKinzey]

You've changed to 12v but do you still have the second Alt? The stock alts are rated at 60 Amps so you may want to throw that second alt back on

Basically you want to either get a larger alt or a separate power system for your stereo.

I'm probably going to go with a bigger alternator because a second power system would need it's own battery and 3 batteries under the hood takes up too much real estate.

The alternator I'm looking at is a CS144 which has a high output at idle and tops out at 140 amps. Cheap and prolific There will be some reconfiguring but I think it's doable. I've got more info but it's a cut & paste mess so if you want to look into it Google: CS144 alternator and I'm sure you will find plenty of info

 

[CUCVFAN]

The stock CUCV alternators are rated at 100 amps, so they have plenty of power. The best place to pull your 12V power is the junction block on the firewall just to the left (looking at the firewall) of the glow plug relay. If you find that there's not enough power, then you might upgrade the 12V (driver's side alternator) as suggested. But that amp won't draw anywhere near 60 amps unless you are really driving it hard.

 

[bassplayer88]

The alt are rated at 100Amps , ("Marketing label", they will produce 100Amps for a short time , and high amperage usage of 60+amps will burn the alts out).. If your looking a 500w amp at 12v = 500/12 = 41.6 amps .. I currently have x2 m1009's , x1 is a 1 off genset in the build and the other will be a boonie buggie play toy. Personally, I convert all 24v to x2 separate 12v systems .. Search for the conversion url.. Why .. 1) I have no historic value for these so the 24v is useless. 2) 12v starter is $100.00+ cheaper than finding the 24v starter. 3) second alt on a independent 12v circuit allows the use of winches/pumps/exterior lights, kicking stereo amps with out the primary circuit (starter/motor/glow plugs) being effected .
Basically I would suggest the following: If you bought your m1009 due to its military history , then keep it the way it is 24v no stereo .. If you bought it due to a good deal, going to use it as an IE play toy, or even a daily driver, convert to 12v, replace the glow plugs with self regulating plugs , configure the glow plug controller to be manual.. and you just removed the majority of the problematic issue with the m1009.. Just my 2 cents

 

[mangus580]

Actually the 100 amp alt's in the CUCV's were rated for 100amps for longer periods than most the civvy models.

Run you wire all the way to the front battery ALWAYS when doing anything that requries large amounts of power. The engineers at GM did not design any of the existing wiring to carry any additional load. Do not use the junction box on the firewall, as it does not have enough power to handle what you want.

I have a 240 watt sherwood in mine, and this is how I have wired it. You will find most 'good' professional installers will power the amp from the battery direct.

 

[SuperchargedRS]

So run the Amp off the first batt. (Just like in a normal auto install).

Is there any certain place I should hook my power for my deck???


Thanks,

 

[CUCVFAN]

Good point. Even though you will probably go deaf if you listen at a level that uses enough power to overload the stock wiring to the junction block, I have always powered my stereo equipment from the battery directly as well. For casual listening, the junction block will provide enough power, but it sounds like you are interested in more than casual listening.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Actually, as long as your ears don't ring after listening to the stereo, you will not have any hearing loss. I have been into high power audio for many years and have had no hearing loss. It takes alot of power to recreate the lower rangs of the audio spectrum which will not affect your hearing at all. Most audible information is in the midrange area which is easy to recreate, the low end is what gets drowned out so you need more power in that area.

 

[SuperchargedRS]

Ok, did some poking around w/ the multimeter, I will be going w/ the front batt. as it is the way I have always done it,

+ The junction box on the drivers side next to the glow plug relay that someone mentioned is 12v BUT does not look like a place where one would want to draw up to 60AMPS.
+The power junction on the pass. side behind the batts. is all 24v. (According to my multimeter).

Once the remainder of everything I ordered for the truck arrives I will post pics of the install and whatnot.


Also I am not keeping this truck for the mil aspect of it (though I like the CARC and the M-16 mounts, d-rings, etc.), I am doing this truck up as my daily driver, it will remain 24v., new carpet, seats, sound deaden, under-coated, bilstiens, bushings, repaint (carc pattern from mil manual for painting), tint, dashpad, pwr win&lks, alarm, etc., The purpose of the truck is to run on BioDiesel, be VERY dependable, rust proof (for northern driving), and still be able to use it for business.

 

[devilman96]

There is a really good car audio site which covers most of the basics on audio install... It pays to read ALL of it if your considering putting anything into anything... http://www.bcae1.com/

 

[CUCVFAN]

Actually, as long as your ears don't ring after listening to
the stereo, you will not have any hearing loss. I have been into high power audio for many years and have had no hearing loss. It takes alot of power to recreate the lower rangs of the audio spectrum which will not affect your hearing at all. Most audible information is in the midrange area which is easy to recreate, the low end is what gets drowned out so you need more power in that area.

It was actually a joke... My days of high power audio started in 1988 and I never suffered hearing loss either.

 

[Recovry4x4]

Hmm, I can't hear too well these days but its probably not from audio. I think its the time around top fuelers that has taken its toll on the hearing. The damage takes place earlier but doesn't show up untill you start aging a bit. Just be careful folks.

 

[gt1009]

I'm gonna do the same installation in about a month, so make sure to keep us updated on how it goes. Good Luck,
Greg

'84 m1009

 

[wallew]

dfhshdfhdsdhsfdfhs

 

[ONTOS66]

Look over my shoulders and you'll see where my hearing went. Good luck with the CUCV, I'll be making some similar changes (minus the noise assault quality audio) on my M1009.

 

[BKinzey]

Oops

Maybe I'm confusing the K5 with the M1009.

 

[SuperchargedRS]

Well I got my 6x9s one set of my 3.5s (I am using the LMC truck center speaker adapter bracket that is set to accept dual 3.5s to replace the center speaker, this way I will have a dual center speakers along with the side dash speakers), my Kenwood deck, ipod adapter, so I still am waiting for my second set of 3.5s my 6.5 component system, q-kickpanel mounts and street wires speaker wire.

Once UPS gets it all to my place I will update this thread w/ the install

Here is what I am using:
Kenwood EZ-500 deck
Kenwood iPod adapter
Infinity 6.5 Ref components [mounted in Q-forum kick panel mounts]
Infinity 6.9 3ways
Infinity 3.5 Refs (four mounted in dash)
Infinity 7541A Amp.

And insulation and whatnot from LMC truck

 

[steelsoldiers]

I ran a 400 sony x-plod amp in my CUCV. I bolted it to the floor under the driver's seat using stainless bolts and spacers to keep it off of the mat 1/2". I ran my power wire for the amp out to the + lug on the front batt. The head-unit power came from the 12v block next to the glow relay. I cut speaker panels out of 14g steel and mounted a set of Boston matched component 6.25" in them. I bolted those to the bed lip just in front of the rear seat. The box in the back had 2 eclipse 12"s and it was chained to the rear seat. I never had to worry about thieves in all the years I had the CUCV. That is until it broke down at my Dad's supply yard and sat there for 3 or 4 weeks until I got it going again. Some jerk had the time to jimmy the door, cut the wires, and un-bolt the amp without anyone ever seeing a thing. Tools!!

Good luck with your stereo project. Oh, and use bigger wire and connectors than you think you'll need. I used 4g wire and gold plated moster terminals for my power wire. No problems.

Chris