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Insturment panel issues..Grimlin?

topgun217

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376
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Location
The Northern Border of Ohio
Ok, I was at it again today couldn't leave well enough alone. Here are my problems: I replaced all dash lights and used steel wool on the copper contacts and got everything nice & clean; re-assembled and now I have dash lights.

Now the problem: I lost use of the voltmeter, gas gauge won't register the half tank I have inside, my front passenger side parking light is out and the side marker is barley visable.

I also noticed a 20 amp fuse just below and to the left of the #1 flasher; It was melted in there so I had to pull it out and I tried to replace it with another 20 amp fuse, but I'm not sure if it is making proper connection or not and I have no idea what it is for.....Maybe my voltmeter????
FYI: I have a push button for the glow plugs and the ole gal starts right up after I push my button, so I believe all is well on that side.

I cleaned the ground wire located just up and to the left of the fuse panel since the dash was off and I just seen it there yelling out "do the right thing" Did I miss anything? Did I clean too good? What started out as a nice simple day has now turned into a bad day.

Thanks in advance for any and all replys in advance......Pete aua
 

Warthog

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That ground connector that you cleaned feeds the Low Coolant module, Seat Belt Buzzer, Volt Meter/VM Relay and the ground for the Seat Belt Light in the cluster. I would recheck it to make sure it is making good contact.

The fuse you are talking about. Is it #12 in the picture? If so It should be 10amp. It feeds the Volt Meter and the Gen2 Light and Gen2 exciter.

I would disconnect the batteries, pull all the fuses and clean all the contacts with Contact Cleaner and a small nail file/sand paper if needed. Wit over 25 years of dust/dirt/grime they do not make good contact and can overheat/melt.


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319

Lieutenant
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Michigan
I'd first look at the ground wires for the front parking light and side marker light. Also check the bulb contacts in the sockets, they can crack. As for the voltmeter, first verify that you connected it, then check the ground wire. The fuel gauge may be a bad connection in the instrument panel. Most likely will end up taking the instrument panel out and putting it back in a few times before everything works.
 

topgun217

Member
376
0
16
Location
The Northern Border of Ohio
Actually the fuse is the #3 fuse? thats whats so darn frustrating. I'm going back out for a second try at the ground wire :roll: I have a 1009 not a 1010 ambulance im stumped as to why there is a fuse there
 
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topgun217

Member
376
0
16
Location
The Northern Border of Ohio
Still no volt meter! I checked the ground and sanded down the area around it . Iwas able to get the 20 amp fuse in the slot (the #3 slot) pictured in the diagram and it is making connection.

The turn signal issue was just a loose wire, simple fix.

Now I need to purchase a cluster panel, seems I some how managed to break off two tabs, just my luck. If anyone has one will to part with let me know.

I believe I just may and go ahead and replace the volt meter, since I may have fried it some how. If a new volt meter doesn't work, I dont know what else to try.

Special thanks to Wart Hog & 319, I think you two may want to start a shop! Your wisdom is always very much appreciated!!!
 

topgun217

Member
376
0
16
Location
The Northern Border of Ohio
If I read you correctly , i did unplug the main harness from the back of the insturment panel. Everything seeems tight and I did use crc on it today and stilll no volt meter. I have a friend who has a multi meter but i'm not sure what amount o current to look or.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
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Location
Clover, SC
Same thing happened to me I used a pencil eraser on both plugs. You can buy. A 20 dollar muliti meter at walmart I am always using mine.
 

topgun217

Member
376
0
16
Location
The Northern Border of Ohio
Good news to report; After cleaning with 2 cans of CRC and some steel wool, I put everything back together and "SHE'S ALIVE"! Everything is working just fine. I beleive most of the problem stemmed from poor battery connections which were replaced with new copper crimp type, new fuses for the fuse box, used steel wool on the connector's for the dash bulbs, new bulb's all the way around.

I now have Gen 1 & Gen 2 lights, wait, water in fuel, brake, etc. Even my voltmeter works! (there apparently was a loose connection or a fuse issue there)

The bad thing was that I got so excited, I broke two tabs off the insturment panel, so I need to find one of those. Now I'm a happy little soldier.

Thanks again for everyones help!!:beer:
 
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