Intake flame heater delete

[rustystud]

I'm not going to say I was driving by the end of the 1960's. I'm just saying I'm not gonna tell.

 

[RAYZER]

I bypassed mine and just left the spark plug in the hole,
Doesn't look as nice as a plug but works.

 

[gimpyrobb]

The nice thing about the plug is less "crap" in the way while working on the motor. Those spark plugs stick out a lot.

 

[red]

I posted earlier that I'm sure the threads are a straight thread NPT . The military never used any Metric fittings that I have ever seen in these years. I was a maintenance mechanic in the Marines (after a lateral move from Tanks) and never used a metric wrench or socket or metric anything. What has probably happened is that the Metric threads are close enough to fit, just like a 11mm is 7/16" , 13mm is 1/2" and a 19mm is 3/4" .

Its a 'Boss fitting', we use them a lot with hydraulics.

 

[Jeepsinker]

Well, the 18mm plug fits nicely, but the 20mm plug is most certainly NOT the right plug. It works, but fits so loose that it could easily pull threads out of the manifold. It worries me.

 

[tcruwithme]

Well, the 18mm plug fits nicely, but the 20mm plug is most certainly NOT the right plug. It works, but fits so loose that it could easily pull threads out of the manifold. It worries me.

I just started my flame heater delete project today. I was armed with the M18 (spark plug) and M20 (Fluid Restrictor) plugs, but as Jeepsinker said, it seems the M20 plug is too small. No amount of Teflon tape would help this plug, had I used it. I could pull the M20 plug out by wiggling it back and forth - without turning it. I am going to bring the Fluid Restrictor I pulled out over to Fastenal tomorrow morning and have them tell me what size the replacement plug needs to be. I hope Fastenal has the plug in stock, or we can make one from a bolt they have in stock. I'll report back if we can figure out the correct size.

~ Thad Carlson, Eagan, MN

 

[nchittendon]

Keep me updated thad! This is a project I've been putting off all summer.

 

[tcruwithme]

Correct plug size to replace MFH fuel nozzle

Ok, I just heard back from my local machine shop on this plug (Ickler in St. Cloud, MN). I dropped off the actual fuel nozzle/fluid restrictor (Item #25 in Fig. #27 "Flame Heater and Related Parts" from TM 9-2320-361-24P) and they measured it up. It is a 20.5 mm with a thread pitch of 1.25. Good luck finding that! If you don't want to weld this shut, you are looking at making the world's most expensive plug - because there is no die for a 20.5 mm bolt/plug with 1.25 pitch. Alternatively, you can do what Lieutenant Dan said - just plug the fuel ports in the fuel nozzle/fluid restrictor.

 

[gimpyrobb]

Or you could drill and tap it for a common size. Don't make it harder than it needs to be!

 

[welldigger]

Ok, I just heard back from my local machine shop on this plug (Ickler in St. Cloud, MN). I dropped off the actual fuel nozzle/fluid restrictor (Item #25 in Fig. #27 "Flame Heater and Related Parts" from TM 9-2320-361-24P) and they measured it up. It is a 20.5 mm with a thread pitch of 1.25. Good luck finding that! If you don't want to weld this shut, you are looking at making the world's most expensive plug - because there is no die for a 20.5 mm bolt/plug with 1.25 pitch. Alternatively, you can do what Lieutenant Dan said - just plug the fuel ports in the fuel nozzle/fluid restrictor.

Maybe try something that's 13/16?

 

[Ford Mechanic]

Hey guys which hole are ya'll having trouble finding a plug for? I don't have one anymore but deleted that before I sold it. I happen to have a couple plugs left that I used, but can't remember which hole this fit. I do remember that I did coat the threads with grey rtv to ensure a good seal.

If someone that's trying to delete their flame heater wants to get a free part to see if it's the correct plug, first one to pm me gets it. If it's the right one I'll give out what I have which ain't many.

 

[lino]

As another solution, instead of needing a plug.

I cut off the end of the insert, drilled it out, pressed in a plug so I could make the hole smaller, and used it as the port for my boost sensor.
This is the only pic I could find.

 

[CHIEFSONN]

I am looking for a complete flame heater set up if there is any one that has plans on removing theirs, I live up where we get so cold weather and the deuce that I just purchased does not have one and is giving me trouble starting. my engine is a LDT 365-1D. maybe if I had one to install it would start a lot easier. thank you

 

[nchittendon]

I am looking for a complete flame heater set up if there is any one that has plans on removing theirs, I live up where we get so cold weather and the deuce that I just purchased does not have one and is giving me trouble starting. my engine is a LDT 365-1D. maybe if I had one to install it would start a lot easier. thank you

I plan on deleting mine in the next couple of months. I'll try to salvage what I can, but had tossed the idea of re-using some of the parts as mentioned in post #92 on this thread.

 

[nchittendon]

As another solution, instead of needing a plug.

I cut off the end of the insert, drilled it out, pressed in a plug so I could make the hole smaller, and used it as the port for my boost sensor.
This is the only pic I could find.
View attachment 580293

I don't suppose you have any updated information or pics?

 

[CHIEFSONN]

To plug the hole I went to my local pool supply and purchased a rubber taper plug that fit inside the hole and when you turn the wing nut on the other side of the screw the screw becomes shorter in length, and the tapered rubber that has been inserted into the opening expands making a tight seal that you cannot pull out. part coast me $3.00

 

[mill424]

Did any of you guys have any issues removing the line from the IP?! I got the first line removed with the nylon hose and ferrule attached but the brass nut it was going into to put a plug in the IP is being a major PIA...any ideas?'

 

[peashooter]

Did any of you guys have any issues removing the line from the IP?! I got the first line removed with the nylon hose and ferrule attached but the brass nut it was going into to put a plug in the IP is being a major PIA...any ideas?'

I know I had an issue with one of those lines. I ended up keeping the fitting and put a new nut/ferrule on it, then put a piece of 1/4" brass rod in there to use as my plug. Its not ideal but it works and its what I had on hand at the time.
Some of the fuel fittings on these trucks are near impossible to get off!
Here is a link to someone who had an issue with a different fuel fitting and how he got it off... maybe it will help: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-to-my-deuce&p=1669857&viewfull=1#post1669857

 

[mill424]

I know I had an issue with one of those lines. I ended up keeping the fitting and put a new nut/ferrule on it, then put a piece of 1/4" brass rod in there to use as my plug. Its not ideal but it works and its what I had on hand at the time.
Some of the fuel fittings on these trucks are near impossible to get off!
Here is a link to someone who had an issue with a different fuel fitting and how he got it off... maybe it will help: http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showth...-to-my-deuce&p=1669857&viewfull=1#post1669857

I'll probably be doing the same thing and going back with a new ferrule and a crimped hard line to block it off but for whatever reason my two fingers wedged up against the steering box can't get the **** nut started for anything last night. Do you know if I can remove that side of the fuel pump and work on it on a bench in the garage without having to remove the WHOLE IP? Or would removing the fuel pump from the IP mess it up? It looks like there are two bolts holding it onto the IP with 4-6 smaller screws on outside of the IP.

 

[gimpyrobb]

That fuel pump has a shaft that goes all the way through the IP. Its no fun.

Just attack putting the nut in KNOWING its going to suck and need patience. Plan on spending 2 hrs on it and I bet it goes quicker than you think.

If something needs to come off, it will be the whole IP(sorry man).