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Interesting brake problem/ resolution.

Recovry4x4

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The last few days of driving the M275A2 around I noticed that the brake pedal was hard to push. Felt almost like it had no brakes. Once you really started pushing it was like something broke free, the pedal would fall a bit and the brakes would jamb on. It was near impossible to make a smooth stop. I was anticipating something sticking in the master cylinder so I put the truck up on the concrete to change the master yesterday. After shutting the truck down I took a few stabs at the brake pedal and heard air escaping. From underneath I found that the air pack was releasing air through the vent line whenever the brakes were applied. I pulled the air pack and stripped it yesterday and started assembling it but had to leave for work. Finished it up a little while ago and now its got great brakes, better than I can remember. There was all kinds of gook and grease appearing stuff in that air pack. The rebuild kit I bought some time ago from KCGONGO on ebay. The kit was missing one simple o-ring which I got locally for 49 cents. Now that this is fixed, this is the next truck for a front end tear down for new boots, brakes and seals.
 

Stretch44875

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My truck has been doing the same thing. Push the brake pedal and the truck would start to slow, then you really had to push, and the pedal would drop, brakes come on big time. Can hear a lot of air escaping before the pedal breaks free and brakes grab. Looks like I have to rebuild the air pack... Grrrr...

Glad someone else figured out the problem, I was going to shoot some lube in it and see what happened.

Dennis
 
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houdel

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If it is that bad, then rebuild it. Mine has been working OK for me. As preventative medicine, I pulled off the J pipe and squirted in a healthy dose of Breakfree CLP (CLP as in Cleaner, Lubricant, Protectant). If you guys have never used this stuff, run down to Wally World and buy a can, then throw away all of your WD-40, Kroil or whatever you had been using.

Breakfree CLP is TRUELY the best thing since sliced bread. It is the only lube I use now. I use it on my MVs, guns, and anything else that needs lube. Those of you old enough to remember the Vietnam War, when the M-16s were first issued they had a lot of problems with the guns jamming. Army issued lubes would not work, the only thing that kept the M-16s running was Breakfree CLP. I remember GIs writing home begging for this stuff cause it was the only thing that worked.

I don't know what is in it but it works and works well. I know it has Teflon particles suspended in it so you have to shake it up before you use it. The neat thing about it is that it works itself down into the pores of the metal and after a couple of days it dries out so whatever you used it on does not feel "oily", but it continues to lubricate and prevent rust.

Both my oldest son and I had a similar experience with it a couple of years ago during muzzle loading season. We both had lubed our guns with Breakfree CLP, but both of us forgot to lube the muzzle end of the barrel. It was a damp, rainy season that year and I forgot to take a cleaning kit with me to deer camp (my son was hunting in another area). At the end of the day, all I had to wipe the water off of my gun was the damp cotton gloves I had been wearing. In spite of all the damp weather and lack of proper cleaning, after 4 days of hunting neither of our rifles had a spot of rust on them except for the muzzles which we hadn't lubed. When we finally got home and gave our guns a good cleaning, all I had to do was wipe the muzzle of my barrel with the Breakfree CLP, it took off the rust and the muzzle was as good as new. My son had the same experience. I also have a table saw which I kept in my garage and had a problem with the table rusting. I wiped the table down with Breakfree CLP, it removed the rust and it has remained rust free ever since.

No, I am not a salesman for Breakfree CLP and do not own any of their stock, but believe this is TRUELY great stuff! If you haven't used it, get some and try it, you will be impressed.
 

alphadeltaromeo

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Hmm, i've used a few products for my table saw...well actually it was a 2 part process. i think im going to try your suggestion and see how it works.
 

ida34

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CLP has been the issued cleaner and lube for small arms since the before I was an armorer in the 80's. I had RBC and RBC was still in the system but CLP was the lube specified for most all small arms.
 

houdel

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I was out of the service by the time the 80's rolled around. The only weapons lube we had in those days was LSA (Lubricant, Small Arms). Worked OK, it was a mixture of beeswax in oil, but did not come close to CLP as a lubricant.
 

ida34

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I used to have to yell at soldiers that would put the rifle in the parts washer to clean it. It cleaned it too good and took off the built up teflon. It also dried out the plastic stock. The breach on that CLP PS page looks like the breach of my M198 howitzer.
 

wallew

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I used CLP until I discovered a product that works better.

It's called PROLONG. I use it for EVERYTHING. It is made for several applications. First is an additive to your engine oil. Second one is an additive for your automatic tranny (use the first additive for standard transmissions). Third additive is for the fuel system. Keeps everything clean and lubed. Fourth is an Octane additive that I add to my fuel when I go on long trips. Plus they sell their oil called SPL100 (super penetrating lubricant) in aerosol cans, I have four down under my bench.

http://www.prolong.com/Main.aspx

I use the SPL100 for anything and everything that needs lubrication. Works wonders on every firearm I've ever worked on as a gunsmith. A couple of very small squirts and it is amazing the results.

I'm NOT putting down CLP. I STILL have a can. But I never use it. I figure it's back up if I ever run out of the Prolong. And no, I don't work for or get any profit from Prolong products. I wish I did.

jim
 

sermis

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My brake peddle got real hard to push too but there was no air escaping. The brakes just started locking up. Was able to drive the last couple of miles home but they got really hot, 700+. The truck sat for a few days and the brakes started working ok again. They almost seamed better than before after they released. Not looking forward to full failure.
How hard is the air pack rebuild? I have never been in one. Who has kits and how much?
 

houdel

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Lube with CLP or Prolong as mentioned above MAY free up your airpack and save you a rebuild. It seems most of the airpack problems are NOT a mechanical problem, but a lubrication problem. Get a good high intensity lube in there, NOT LSA or or EO, it may save you a lot of work.
 

Recovry4x4

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After seeing the funk that was inside mine on a truck I drove every day, I'll be taking down the airpacks on all deuces that I get. I've got 2 airpacks in parts that are basically junk. Gonna try to scare up a few cores to rebuild for stock.
 

doghead

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I have been looking for CLP Breakfree since reading about it here. I finally found that my local Wal-Mart has it. It is in the sporting goods dept. I have been looking in the automotive dept. with no luck! I have asked (in the automotive dept) at two different stores if they had it and they said no. I have used many products intended for similar uses and I want to try CLP Break Free. On my next trip to the "big city" I will get me some! www.break-free.com
 

JDToumanian

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I have been looking for CLP Breakfree since reading about it here .... I had been looking in the automotive dept, with no luck!
:ditto:

Thanks DH! I had been looking in the automotive section, too... where they keep the WD-40 and all the other oils and silicone sprays... seemed logical that it would be there. I wouldn't have thought to look in sporting goods. Big-5 sells it too, but that's a lot farther for me to drive than WalMart.

Jon
 

Recovry4x4

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If you want to get a great selection of different sizes includiing the little travel size, go to a gun range. I've used this stuff for years and its good stuff for sure. As far as a penetrating oil it still falls way behind the GM Heatvalve lubricant. The techs at the dealership refer to it as "The Spray from God" I've still found nothing to rival this stuff, not even Kroil.
 

cbvet

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For penetrating oil, Seabees in VietNam used a mixture of 2 parts kerosene & 1 part OIL OF WINTERGREEN which we got from the Docs. Worked great.
Around here, the best I've found is PB Blaster. Better than liquid wrench.
For lubricating & preserving, CLP is tops. I'd guess I've used it for 20-25 years or more on guns & lots of other small items. Just make sure you shake it really well to mix the Teflon particles.
Eric
 

houdel

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As far as I am concerned, Kroil SUCKS! I've got near a full gallon that I'd gladly give to someone if they want to pay the shipping.

Seems like Wally World is inconsistent as to where they stock the Breakfree CLP. Depending on the store, I've found it in both the Automotive and Sporting Goods Dept. Ask a sales associate to look it up on the computer to see where your particular store carries it. It is available in containers from a 1/2 oz bottle to 8 oz spray can to 16 oz hand sprayer bottle (like a Windex bottle), and other sizes in between. I have a wholesale gun account with a distributor who carries the full assortment, so I can order whatever container I want.

Next to Breakfree CLP, my next favorite product is Simple Green. It is an absolutely fabulous cleaner, also carried at Wally World, usually in the automotive dept. Used full strength, it WILL remove grease and oil from ANYTHING. I used it full strength on my oil drain bucket, it came out looking absolutely new. Also works great as an engine cleaner. Used full strength sprayed on laundry stains, it will remove almost anything. If Simple Green won't get the stain out, nothing will. We use it diluted 30:1 as a general household cleaner, it has replaced everything else we ever used. Great Stuff!
 
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