IP problem, center bolt/shaft came loose

[Aidan Pryde]

Hey guys,
after replacing glowplugs, fuel filter, batteries and starter, I think ich found the real cause of my no-start problem.

The center shaft (or bolt?) in my IP came loose and is grinding at the timing cover.
View attachment 725315


Anyone has seen something like this?
I guess i need a new IP or can this be fixed?

Best regards
Knut

 

[cucvrus]

NO that is normal. That keeps spring pressure back on the injection pump so the gears stay aligned. Remain calm all is well. The 3 M8 bolts hold the pump to the gear.

 

[Chaski]

It is a spring loaded pin.

Try pushing on it if you are curious.

 

[Aidan Pryde]

Spring loaded? That's why i couldn't turn in back in. Thanks!
So the search will go on...
Timing chain seems to be ok, that IP-pump gear is turning, when the starter turns.

I guess i should list the things i already checked, maybe there is something i missed?

Batteries were old -> installed two new 6T batteries (950CCA).
27MT starter turned 100-200rpm -> installed new 27MT starter, turns 400-500rpm.
Glowplugs were old -> installed new Bosch Duratherms, all 8 are measured at 1ohm and getting 12V if i push the button.
Fuel Filter (spin-on, installed last year) is good, output flows a nice stream, when starter turns. Because of this, the lift pump is also working as it should, right?
Check-valve was clogged last year, so i installed a larger one (1/4" inner diameter with 6psi opening pressure). Works great, but i pulled it out yesterday and tried out a regular hose fitting without valve.
Fuel shutoff solenoid, cold start solenoid and cold start idle solenoid are getting 12V if i switch the key to ignition on. The shutoff solenoid clicks pretty loud.
Pulled the IP-cover, pump is filled with fuel. Can't see anything damaged, everything looks straight and is moving without force.
Checked the fuel shutoff solenoid on my workbench, it is working with external 12V.

It just won't start.
Engine is turning over, but no smoke from exhaust.

Everything started, after i took out the CDR valve to repair the "double-elbow" rubber-thingy with some selfwelding siliconetape. The preowner ripped it apart with the hose-clamps, so ist was dripping oil. I reinstalled anything, started right up, was running 10 seconds, shutoff by itself and never started again.

Anyone has another idea? I really need to get it running, it is my daily-driver/workhorse and i don't like to drive the vette on rainy days, like last week.

BTW: Just an info, if my starter-rpms seem a little off: My tach is showing 700-800rpm at idle and 3600rpm at 55mph on stock size tires with 4.56s. So maybe it's not working properly.

 

[cucvrus]

Have you checked the lift pump? Also the injection pumps do require rebuilding from time to time. You would be amazed at the ill's that are fixed with a fresh rebuilt injection pump. I only ever changed delivery nozzles one time on any of my CUCV's and that wasn't the problem any way. It always works for me to just refresh the injection pump. I hope that helps. Check back. But also a clogged sock/fuel filter can cause problems. Sounds like the injection pump from afar diagnosis.

 

[Bighorn]

Does the fuel shutoff solenoid have power in the crank position of the key?
I would hook up a volt meter to the shutoff lead and route the leads so i could watch the meter from inside.
Then crank the engine and observe.
Could be an ignition switch failure.
Give that a check.

 

[Aidan Pryde]

The lift pump should be ok, when i get a solid stream out of fuel-filter outlet?
I have a pushbutton for cranking as a failsave, so a broken ignition switch won't let me stranded. No start with key or pushbutton.

Any more ideas, before i spend 1k on a new IP?

 

[Bighorn]

Yes.
Crack injector lines loose and try cranking w key on.
That will tell you right there if it is an ip pump.
Assuming lift pump volume.
Shutoff solenoid etc are working.

 

[nyoffroad]

Sure seems strange that the problems started when you fixed that elbow.
Lift pump does seem to work as your getting fuel to the IP, The IP solenoid seems to work because you hear a click. Have you actually checked the voltage at the solenoid? Could you have switched the wires around and be hearing the high idle solenoid clicking instead? (weird things happen!)
This is doubtful but when you had the top of the IP off could you have put it back on in the wrong position and thus will not allow fuel to flow? That could easily be checked by cracking a injector line and cranking the engine.
Hope you find the problem.

 

[Aidan Pryde]

Another try:
Without 12V the metal linkage on the shutoff solenoid presses against the metal link on the left side inside the IP. That linkage (metering valve?) should be spring loaded towards the front of the car all the time?