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IP Pump replacement

Warthog

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Main thing is to read the Tech Manual and have that section handy when you are doing it.
 

dstang97

Well-known member
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Clover, SC
Label the injector lines and when putting it back together start at the bottom 2 and work your way up to the top other wise its a pain to get in there with a common wrench unless you have different angle wrenches.
 

acmunro

Member
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Location
Reynoldsville,PA
I didn't get to my project today - plans changed as usual. One handy tool to have is a Tubing crowsfoot wrench to fit the injector lines at the Injector Pump. I use one and a long wobble extension with a 3/8" breaker bar or ratchet. Works good for those hard to get at bottom lines.
 

acesneights1

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CT
x2. That is exactly what I use and Dstang is right.. Be careful with the bolts for the IP to camgear. I don't "think" they can fall in but have never tested that theory....:D. i have actually done 2 of these in the last 3 months. Real simple job IMHO. When you get 'er all back together leave all the lines loose at the nozzles and crank it over a bit until fuel comes out then tighten up. Scribe the exact location of the Old IP before removing it. Put new IP in excact same place. The tolerances are very tight on these pumps and that will usualy put you right back where yiou need to be timing wise. Otherwise timing by ear or preferred method if availible is using the Kent Moore Timing light made for 6.2's which is rarer than an honest politician...:)
 

antennaclimber

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I changed mine last weekend, I bought a magnetic socket from Snap On for the hidden bolts on the front. It worked great for the removal and installation.

Make notes of where all the different length bolts the intake manifold has.

Not to hard of a job, take pictures of it before you tear it apart so you can put it back together the way it was.
 

HardCorps79

New member
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Kansas City, MO
Use a crow's foot (crowfoot) wrench to get at the bottom couple of injector lines. Label them with colored tape or marker. Use a magnetic long socket to be sure you don't drop the crankcase bolts into the timing cover. Have a buddy to help turn the engine over for you so you can see/feel when the bolts line up. I used a digital camera to take pics of where all the parts where before I took them off so I'd know where to put them back on. Take your time and relax and it's not too bad of a job. Just don't try to rush it.
 

JAsher45

New member
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Location
Redfield, Iowa
i have found it makes it alot easier to put all your injector lines on the pump before mounting the pump back up to the engine. it will look like a big scorpion sitting on the bench but it does take the head ache out of trying to get the bottom lines tight on the pump.
 

REDWOLF

New member
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Location
Risingsun Maryland
How are you scribing the old pump what spot are you marking? I know why we are doing this just not shure how to mark it. Maybe a bolt on the gear and the gear itself on the housing? :confused:
 

jets1959

Member
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Location
Lakewood, WA
I just finished mine. The only real problem I had was removing the intake manifold. What was used to weld the gaskets to the engine and the manifold was, I don't know but I would like to get some for other applications. I had to use my engine hoist cargo straps and had the front wheels about two inches off the ground before it finally broke free.:x
 

DrJekl

Member
268
1
18
Location
Clarksville, TN
How do you time the pump? I had a leaky pump on my 1031 but was pulling about 16 MPG (if you kept her at no more then 45) with the leak and now I am getting 12 without the leak. Acts like it is getting more fuel that in needs.
 

Barrman

Well-known member
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Location
Giddings, Texas
There is a very faint scribe mark on the block above the IP mount. There is an identical line on the pump mount flange. Line them up or maybe go 1/16" to the drivers side with the pump line.

The pump shaft itself can only be installed one way. The pulley in the timing cover has a pin hole and off set screws. When you pull the pump, the gear just sits there inside the cover So, the shaft on the pump has to be turned to fit back on the gear. Once you look at a pump and the gear, a light bulb will go off in your head.

This job is more an excercise program for your lower back and upper arms than anything else. Read the TM, make sure you have a crow foot set of sockets, a clean place to lay out the manifold bolts in order as you remove them, mark the lines as they come off the pump and then be very carefull with the gear bolts inside the cover.
 

Wolf.Dose

Active member
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Location
Boehl-Iggelheim, Germany
I think, most helpfull is:
first:switch on the brain,
second: read the manual.
third: try to understand the manual,
forth: prepare the necessary tools and gaskets,
fifth: go through the project in your mind, remove and install the IP without tools, just thinking,
sixth: just do the job and you will succeed.

I worked for 14 years on a M1009 WITHOUT a manual, without a forum which I could ask, built special tools myself and beside that drove the truck 232,000 miles, without parts in the Autoparts store arround the corner. If I needed something, I had to plan in advance to get the neccessary parts during bussiness trips to the states, check arround which are the industry standard parts which might replace the stock parts etc., etc..
By the way, the injector pipes fit only in ONE location. If you start from the bottom, you are able to install them with standard wrenches. Think first!

Wolf
 

Barrman

Well-known member
5,273
1,795
113
Location
Giddings, Texas
Yes, the lines on the pump sure can be installed with just an open end wrench or flare nut wrench. However, 1/8th turn, flip the wrench, 1/8th turn, flip the wrench, 1/8th turn, etc... Sure does get old when a crow foot will let you go 3/4 turn at a time. Do it however you are most comfortable.
 
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