IP Rebuild

[tgtaylor64]

The time has come to rebuild the IP on my M1009. I have the TPs and other useful information on removal and installation. I can get the Stanadyne rebuild kits online for ~$30. I am quite handy and think I can tackle this task with some help. Does anyone know of any good videos or other technical information on exactly what to do when you have the IP on a bench in front of you? I plan to take lots of photos as I disassemble the IP to make sure I don't get anything backwards or forget it altogether. Is it as 'simple' as removing the rebuild components and putting in the new ones? Am I crazy for even thinking about this? Are there special tools that I need? My motivation is to save some money but to gain experience and understanding of this key CUCV system since it is a great source of many problems. Has anyone gone down this path before? What were your key learnings?

 

[patracy]

$30 is only going to handle resealing the pump. Hard parts and the governor damper ring will be more. You'll want to have a nice set of mics to spec everything. Also a good magnifying glass to inspect wear surfaces. You're going to have a bear of a time calibrating it without a bench as well.

If I had an IP that ran fine but leaked, I'll reseal them. If they're dying, I'll just replace.

 

[Warthog]

Rebuilding/sealing is fairly simple. It is the calibration that is the killer as Patracy said.

I rebuilt a DB2 for a MEP-005A. It kind of ran afterward. Took it to the local Stanadyne shop and $450 later it runs great.

 

[tgtaylor64]

I am taking the dive. Removed the air intake manifold this morning with little difficulty. Keep track of the bolts; they are different so map them where you removed them from! I will be certain to heed that advice next time. Once off, the IP and all lines are easily accessable. Removed the IP fuel line feed from the fuel filter (date coded 07 1984) and unscrewed the metal pipe it was attached too. Ran a Q-tip through it and got out the most gummy reddish goo. An omen of what I am to find in the IP!? Also removed the oil fill tube and got a look inside at the IP drive gear bolt (one of three). I will need to manually rotate the crank pulley to bring the others into view. Also cleaned up the timing marks and found that it was perfectly centered; neither advanced or retarded. The next task is to take off the rear injector lines and then to remove the three pump mount nuts. I have two questions; one that I will need to be answered soon and one for later. First, the TM says to remove pump noting position of pump drive gear alignment pin. Can someone provide some additional details on this key step? And secondly, since I will have to leak check all lines, can I start and run the engine with the air intake manifold removed? This is old school easy for some of you but this is major surgery for me. Thanks for your assistance and interest.

 

[Warthog]

The truck will run fine with the intake off. It is used to hold the air filter.

someone else will have to answer the pin question

 

[tgtaylor64]

The IP runs fine when it finally cranks! I think I have some internal leakage issues that causes it to loose prime. That is my motivation for working on it.

 

[Skinny]

Rebuilding an IP is no different from doing an engine or transmission. The big difference is doing it right. Sure anyone can stuff clutches in an automatic slushbox or new bearings in an engine block but it takes lots of specialized equipment to do it right, correct for wear, and dial in adjustments. Better left to the pros. This is the big reason why I just bought an off the shelf reman'd IP from a certified Standadyne dealer. Sometimes it just pays to have a pro work his/her magic.

You can run the engine with the intake off. I had my intake gaskets slid in because the fuel lines go over them. Just becareful not to suck in the plastic plug which holds the gaskets in place. My gaskets wanted to jump around alot during my engine run up test. Plus I wanted to see the valves open and close...I'm easily amused.

I would highly suggest installing your injector spider with the pump on the bench so you can tighten them up. Get the IP in so you can do a run up and check for leaks. It takes a while to bleed the lines at the injectors...make sure your batteries are fully charged. Now would be a good time to change or upgrade your filter. Use all new low pressure hoses and clamps so you don't have to remove your intake in the near future. Good luck on your project.