Is it 12 or 24?

[svlsmokey]

I had my starter rebuilt last summer and it works a lot better. But the folks at the shop told me that it was 12 volt. As far as I know my truck is still 24 volt. I looked under the hood again today and the ( + ) on forward battery is connected to the ( - ) on rear battery and the ( + ) on the rear battery is connected to the junction block on the firewall. Looks to me like it's still 24 volt. Check me on that.

If it is still a 24 volt system and the shop rebuilt me a 12 volt starter, am I going to burn it up? It turns over a lot faster now than it used to.

Thanks.

 

[DrJekl]

If they built it as a 12V, you should have cooked the solenoid by now. As I understand the starter guts as my starter guy explained it, you can't tell by looking at it that it is 24. Something about being wound differently inside making is a 24. Visually they are the same though.

 

[idM1028]

I'd have to say DrJekl is right. Haven't had the good fortune ( ) to need mine rebuilt yet, but the wiki seems to sum it up pretty well:

24V but can be changed to 12V.

To convert to 12v, move the wire that goes to the starter (big red one) off the junction block on the fire wall and moved to the + side of the first battery. This should be done only if a 24V replacement can not be found. With the 24V you have the power of both batteries, with the 12V only the first battery. Also, you need to remove the under dash starter relay and connect the Purple W/White tracer wire to the purple wire.

 

[doghead]

Use a meter and measure the voltage at the starter(on the big cable).

 

[dstang97]

Bring it back and tell them to fix it for 24v.

 

[Baradium]

The solenoid won't neccessarily be hurt by it, but you'll eventually roast the insides of the starter if it's not built for 24v spec.

 

[svlsmokey]

Ok - I will check with the shop next week and see if they can make this right. In the mean time, am I right that this is still 24 volt? Guess I'll get the meter out tomorrow and find out for sure.

 

[Sasquatch]

The truck is 24V and looking at your picture the red starter cable iDM1028 described above looks like it still comes off the firewall, not the front battery which would mean the starter would still be 24V too.

 

[trooper632]

with the 12V only the first battery. Also, you need to remove the under dash starter relay and connect the Purple W/White tracer wire to the purple wire.[/QUOTE]


Why must you remove the starter rely and move the purple wire around, what is this for???. I just did the roscoe 12v conversion to a m1008 and did not remove the starter relay or the purple wire and it starts fine, the only thing is the Gen 2 light stays on does this have something to do with the purple wires, and if power only comes from the front battery what is the reason to have both batteries.