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Is it better to change to 12V starter or stay 24V?

sheriff443

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N.E. Mtns., GA
Brethren, have 1985 M1009, low miles, thousands of dollars in parts, completed most mechanicals in April 2015. Driven daily since, very reliable. Now hear fast click,click,click when attempting to engage starter? Won't start, (starter is 2 yrs. old). Any ideas? Is it better to change to 12V starter (what all is involved) or stay 24V? What say you? TIA
 

tim292stro

Well-known member
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S.F. Bay Area/California
Two things, 28MT starter, Doghead mod. Do you have both? (hint: if not, you should [thumbzup])

I recommend staying 24V, makes it easier to get help from SS members later... 2cents

What's the voltage on your batteries? (measure each) Batteries can go bad overnight...
 

dependable

Well-known member
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Tisbury, Massachusetts
Click click click usually means low voltage/amps in one or both batteries. Fully charge each battery and try to start before you try anything else.
 
Last edited:

scottladdy

Member
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Location
CT
Click click click usually means low voltage/amps in one or both batteries. Fully charge each battery and try to start before you try anything else.
This! Start simple ... do you have sufficient starting capacity in the batteries? Bad connections? Cables get corroded and increase resistance. Is your rear battery getting charged? etc

TM's are your friend here.
 

MarcusOReallyus

Well-known member
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Location
Virginia
Now hear fast click,click,click when attempting to engage starter? Won't start, (starter is 2 yrs. old). Any ideas?

I know that sound! Been there, done that, many times.


All on 12v systems.


I don't see a malfunctioning charging or starting system as a reason to convert. There may be valid reasons, but those are not among them. I'm not a purist with these vehicles, either, I just don't see the effort of converting it as being worthwhile. You're still going to have to fix whatever isn't working.
 

Hasdrubal

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Vancouver BC
28MT starter, No thanks..I prefer the direct drive 27MT. The reason GM went to the gear reduction was cost savings and thats it. Not because they were better.
 

sheriff443

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N.E. Mtns., GA
3 days ago the rear battery (closest to firewall) moved towards the r.f. fender and shorted out, causing the fuseable link @ the firewall to melt. While that was happening the front battery was melting the positive terminal into a puddle of liquid lead. Flatbed arrived, new positive battery cable and front battery replaced and back on road.

p.s. battery voltage was not checked or load tested...may have damaged the rear battery? Thanks Tim.
 

sheriff443

New member
21
0
1
Location
N.E. Mtns., GA
Two things, 28MT starter, Doghead mod. Do you have both? (hint: if not, you should [thumbzup])

I recommend staying 24V, makes it easier to get help from SS members later... 2cents

What's the voltage on your batteries? (measure each) Batteries can go bad overnight..
Thanks Tim, going to ck. into the aforementioned items tomorrow a.m. and will report...
 

sheriff443

New member
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Location
N.E. Mtns., GA
Brothers, thanks for all the advice. The 2 day old interstate (MT-65's) went down to 2V, the rear battery showed 10V. Pulled them both, replaced with 2-31's, the beast fired up so quick it barely turned over...All is well here in the mountains, appreciate all of you!
 

Keith_J

Well-known member
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Location
Schertz TX
28MT starter, No thanks..I prefer the direct drive 27MT. The reason GM went to the gear reduction was cost savings and thats it. Not because they were better.
Onan also went with gear reduction starters on the military MEP 002 and 003 A diesel generators. I know the gear reduction works much better.

Besides, Delco makes the starters. The 28 MT is a ball bearing armature where the 27 is a bushing. Only because the 28 spins so much faster.
 

cucvrus

Well-known member
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Location
Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have a mixed batch of the starter on CUCV's. I never seen anything special about either one. They either start the truck or they don't. Happiness is when they start the truck. They are all equally junk when they don't start the truck. I used to replace starters and alternators as a regular maintenance item. I quit doing that because they were never bad. Then I replaced a few and they went bad in a few months. So I only replace them when I hear the slightest hick up out of them. I have a good electric shop and he treats me well. i let them do the work. There is more to rebuilding a starter and alternator then just throwing a few parts and guess work. it takes good equipment to properly do the job the first time it is out. Pay once and keep rolling. I learned this over the years. So my vote is 50 / 50.
 

CUCVLOVER

Active member
I say 24 volt gr starter is the way to go.
I like the 24 for turning that big diesel, and the gear reduction seems to make it that much better.

Also much easier to change. The gr starter is so much lighter that the DD starter. I change mine laying on my back so.
Just my 1/50th of a dollar.
 
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