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Is my 1987 road worthy?

91W350

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"You say the truck should be driven for extended periods at speeds above 55. My commute is 12 miles and most of it is highway. That means generally 65-70 MPH. Unlike Sammy Hagar, I can drive 55 but I hate to. "

You might get away with it for a year or two, maybe less. A lot less if the engine already has 100,000 miles plus on it. How is the steering wheel wear? Is the pebbling gone or is the face of the steering wheel still textured. Originally the area on both sides of the groove in the face of the wheel were pebbled. If it has worn smooth, she is past that 20,000 miles

65 mph vs 55 mph would save you 120 seconds on your 12 mile drive, seems like a small price to pay to keep a great truck in good shape.

The reason we are so willing to trade axles is that your truck has killer strong differentials at both ends. It is pretty hard to find much tougher in a lightweight truck.

You will pay a huge premium in fuel for that two minutes a day you are saving at 65. Driving 70 would save you another 36 seconds on your commute over 65.

An open differential has no locker or limited slip, it will spin the tire that is the easiest to spin. With open differentials in both ends you are stuck when one front tire and one rear tire have lost contact or have very little contact with the driving surface.

It is yours and drive it the way you want to. If it blows, it was cheap anyway. The huge failure of the 6.2 is cracking of the main bearing webbing and broken crankshafts. Low geared applications like one ton trucks and big 4x4s frequently have mechanical engine failures. The high geared trucks, like the half ton pickups and Suburbans with over drive seldom had engine failures. One owner will love his 6.2, great mileage, long engine life. The next guy hates it, blew up before 100,000 miles and sucked fuel. The rancher checking his cattle and puttering around all day loves the 6.2 in his 4x4 one ton because he never turns any major rpm. It gives him smooth dependable power and decent fuel economy.

My buddy who has the best engine machine shop around this area calls them junk, he says every single one has a broken block or crank or both. Frequently he used to tell me they never ran 100,000 miles before they puked. I know of several that are way beyond that. No, if it is in good shape, it will not fail today, tomorrow, probably not this week or month. But if you keep spinning it hard, you will greatly reduce its life. Glen
 
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I keep mine at 55, but I'm rolling on 36" which helps a lot. I might have hit 60ish on the uncalibrated speedo, but like you said, it's something I try to avoid.
 

ABN173

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I think 91W350 hit on something very important and that is that every truck is a bit different for example, even if the Army took good care of it maybe the Forestry Service didn't, heck it may have been the other way around. Only you know what kind of shape your truck is in, if you don't then read the TM's and start finding out.

-Dale
 

Recovry4x4

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You may also consider going to a taller tire. The 255/85R16 is a bit taller and fits without any mods at all. Great tires.
 

91W350

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That is a fact, I have seen ugly beat up bodies with great drive trains and I have seen some new looking trucks that were just hammered mechanically. Personally, the M1008 is one of my favorite light duty trucks I have ever owned. I am willing to give up a little time and speed to know it has the back bone to get the job done when I need it. I also like the steering wheel to seat angles and the dash controls, maybe it has something to do with all of those miles I put on the 73 to 87 Chevrolet trucks. It is like old home week, only this one is much fresher than most of my old trucks were and I would like to keep it that way at least until I retire, six more years.... Maybe then I will restore it.... nahh, probably not...
 

DokWatson

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I cruise at 65MPH at approximately 2300RPM with 42's, which is pretty comfortable. Obviously you wont need to go that big, but grabbing a few inches more of tire will help you out.

Also, I hardly ever drive this monster on the highway. Most of my driving is under 55.
 
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Phily

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IN
"You say the truck should be driven for extended periods at speeds above 55. My commute is 12 miles and most of it is highway. That means generally 65-70 MPH. Unlike Sammy Hagar, I can drive 55 but I hate to. "

You might get away with it for a year or two, maybe less. A lot less if the engine already has 100,000 miles plus on it. How is the steering wheel wear? Is the pebbling gone or is the face of the steering wheel still textured. Originally the area on both sides of the groove in the face of the wheel were pebbled. If it has worn smooth, she is past that 20,000 miles

65 mph vs 55 mph would save you 120 seconds on your 12 mile drive, seems like a small price to pay to keep a great truck in good shape.

The reason we are so willing to trade axles is that your truck has killer strong differentials at both ends. It is pretty hard to find much tougher in a lightweight truck.

You will pay a huge premium in fuel for that two minutes a day you are saving at 65. Driving 70 would save you another 36 seconds on your commute over 65.

An open differential has no locker or limited slip, it will spin the tire that is the easiest to spin. With open differentials in both ends you are stuck when one front tire and one rear tire have lost contact or have very little contact with the driving surface.

It is yours and drive it the way you want to. If it blows, it was cheap anyway. The huge failure of the 6.2 is cracking of the main bearing webbing and broken crankshafts. Low geared applications like one ton trucks and big 4x4s frequently have mechanical engine failures. The high geared trucks, like the half ton pickups and Suburbans with over drive seldom had engine failures. One owner will love his 6.2, great mileage, long engine life. The next guy hates it, blew up before 100,000 miles and sucked fuel. The rancher checking his cattle and puttering around all day loves the 6.2 in his 4x4 one ton because he never turns any major rpm. It gives him smooth dependable power and decent fuel economy.

My buddy who has the best engine machine shop around this area calls them junk, he says every single one has a broken block or crank or both. Frequently he used to tell me they never ran 100,000 miles before they puked. I know of several that are way beyond that. No, if it is in good shape, it will not fail today, tomorrow, probably not this week or month. But if you keep spinning it hard, you will greatly reduce its life. Glen
Exactly. New trucks from GM and Dodge come with smaller axle shafts and ring gears in the front end. The rear lacks the pinion support bearing. Not even getting into the nice set of carriers the m1028s have.
 

HogHunter

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Holy Mackerel! I posted one post and got so much input! This place is amazing! I have posted on other sites and got nowhere.

91W350 - Thanks so much for you valuable input. I try to remind myself that I am only saving a few seconds when I drive ten miles per hour faster but you put it into real perspective. The possibility of saving fuel and my truck is well worth it. As for the oh well if it dies, is not a big deal in actuality it is. I saved for quite a while to put away the funds to buy it. I never take loans and I have six kids, one income and three kids in college. As you can imagine, my funds are tied up and the idea of having a truck is a dream that I doubted I could pull off. So, I intend to do what I can to keep this one and your input is most welcome. In fact, I am going to put a sticker on the dash reminding me that I want my truck more than the ability to get somewhere a few seconds faster.

Dale - Thanks for your terrific input. I had looked at the technical resources and was at first delighted because I remember the tech manuals I had for my goat and it was the best resource a non mechanic can hope for. As a medic in a field arty unit, I was the only one who liked working on the trucks. So I traded my aid station duty for maintaining all the ambulances. I hated the whining loafers and the other medics loved having someone looking after their vehicles for them. The Motor Pool Sargent and I worked together and he either showed me what to do or got someone to do it. In turn, when his shot records came through, I made sure they were up to date without needing to visit the aid station. :) It turned out to be a real sweet assignment. After a while the trucks were all in shape but I still played up the dirty nasty act. I would come to lunch at the mess hall in grubby coveralls and tell the other medics about the U joint I had to rebuild or the crankcase that needed lubing. They bought it hook line and sinker not know what a U joint or crankcase was. Ah the good ole days in the Army. Of course there were bad days too. Like pulling ammo dump guard duty over Christmas. As one of the medics with no family overseas, I volunteered to cover the duty through out the holidays so the guys with families could be with them. I forgot just how cold it got up where they stored the nukes. Our stove glowed red but you still froze.

To the guys who recommended taller tires, thanks as well. I think it has taller tires then stock. but not 36s they are 32 or 33s if I recall.

To the question about whether if could go 70? Big time yes. I don't think it has a governor, if it does, it must be pulling a Clinton and sleeping on the job. I have had it over 80. Of course that was before I realized it was bad for the truck. When I first got it the speedo was showing 45 when I passed a radar sign saying I was doing 55. So the real speed I did is up for grabs. I have since take the speedo apart trying to get it out so I could track down a serious rattle in thee dash. When I did I adjusted the pin back a bit. I need to go past that radar sign again to test it. Maybe I will find a TM on the dash in the resources.

Again to all you guys who posted thanks. To all who not only posted but served in our military, thanks even more, and to those currently serving: Thanks, stay away from the medics and be safe!

HogHunter aka Thom
 
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ABN173

Active member
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FT Bragg, NC
As one of the medics with no family overseas, I volunteered to cover the duty through out the holidays so the guys with families could be with them. I forgot just how cold it got up where they stored the nukes. Our stove glowed red but you still froze.

HogHunter aka Thom
HH,

Where were you stationed at? I did some time in Vicenza, Italy and we used a site up at Longare for training that was an ex-nuke site. I am a former infantryman that went Warrant Officer for UAV's. Also long ago during a break in service I spent some time in the reserves so they sent me to medic school too.

Additionally you will notice those TM's have numbers ending with -10, -20, -30 etc... In case you forgot the -10 is operators level, -20 is the unit maintenance level, and -30 is "3rd shop" DOL(you can rebuild the engine with this one)


-Dale
 

HogHunter

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Jacksonville, FL
HH,

Where were you stationed at? I did some time in Vicenza, Italy and we used a site up at Longare for training that was an ex-nuke site. I am a former infantryman that went Warrant Officer for UAV's. Also long ago during a break in service I spent some time in the reserves so they sent me to medic school too.

Additionally you will notice those TM's have numbers ending with -10, -20, -30 etc... In case you forgot the -10 is operators level, -20 is the unit maintenance level, and -30 is "3rd shop" DOL(you can rebuild the engine with this one)


-Dale
I was in Furth near Nuremberg at the W. O . Darby Kaserne in the 1/94th Field Artillery from 76-78.

Our 8 inch Howitzers could throw a bunch of pain 18 miles and hit a Volkswagen. Unfortunately, the nukes we were supposed to use had a kill zone of 20 miles.

I asked my guys if they knew what a nuke looked like. They said "Sure Doc" so I asked them to let me know if they ever loaded one and he said "Why, what's up Doc?" No really he said that.

I replied "Well my duty here is to help you guys in case of injury and there is no doubt that there will be too much injury to deal with if I stay here after you fire a nuke, so when you get ready to fire one of those bad boys, I will head about five mile the other way. If you can get the vehicles fired up I suggest you boggy right after pulling the lanyard."

This big old Okie looked at me and scratched his head and said "Sure thing Doc but I still don't see why". I smiled and said "You are firing a weapon that kills everything within 20 miles right?"

He said "Yeah"

I said "And that gun can only fire 18 miles right?"

And he said "No Doc, to fire 18 miles that gun needs a mod, it can only fire 16 miles" and he walked away still confused.

They don't pick guys for Artillery for their brains its their brawn they look for and he was living proof of that, bless his heart. He would have killed anyone who came near me but he was not the brightest crayon in the box. :)
 

wallew

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HH,

Here is a gear ratio calculator:

Gear Ratio Calculator

Your M1028 should have a TH400 transmission, NP208 transfer case, and 4.56 gear ratio. Armed with that info and your tire size, you will be able to figure out what rpm your engine is turning at what mph.

I've run my M1028A2 over 60 for LONG distances. It gets better mpg at 60 than at 65.

I sold a buddy of mine an M1031 that had the same mechanicals as your truck, except it has an NP205 instead of an NP208.

He HAD to go faster given he drives manic freeways for an hour every day each way. So he swapped out the gears for 3.53's in place of the 4.56's. NOW he drives 75 - 80 mph all day long. Gets ok mpg as well.

It cost him $800 for that swap. He considered it money well spent. I LIKE mine geared the way it is.

But I also have two M1009's for highway speeds driving. They run 3.08 gears. And that gives them a fair top end AND 15 mpg - 20 mpg ...
 

HogHunter

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Location
Jacksonville, FL
That Gear Ratio Calculator is awesome! I found that I am hitting 3189 RPM at 65. Now the question the dummy asks is that sound fine but I get the sense that someone is going to tell me it is too high for that engine.

All I need now is a really cool feature I had on my 69 Bonneville. One day me and my bud were driving along and we kind of hit the higher speeds then all of a sudden the car sounds like a bomb is going to go off or something. We slow done the noise goes away. Speed back up and it comes back. At first we thought it must be really wicked harmonics but then it kept coming back at the same speed. Well my bud's father was an ace mechanic so we told him about it. He comes out and looks at the car and says "I ought to tell your father you are driving 85 miles per hour. " I look at him then at my bud and back again. He then says "You dummy, see that little red line on you speedometer? It's a speed alarm and it's set at 85!"

While that little alarm saved my butt a bunch by warning me of my lead foot. I set it to 65 back in the days of the 55 speed limits. I could sure use it again to train me to slow down. :-(
 

91W350

Well-known member
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Location
Salina, Kansas
Here is a friendly calculator and you should target 1800 to 2200 as running rpm. In the old half ton applications they frequently were geared 3.55 or 3.73 with a .70 overdrive. 2200 rpm in a 700 R4 on 32" tires should put a vehicle right at 80 mph. Those are the people that just loved this engine, imagine a Suburban rolling 70-75 mph and breaking 20 mpg. Those guys loved these 6.2 diesels. A lot of people in the craft arts game love their old 1/2 tons. Many school districts did not take long to recognize the cheap over the road transportation either. Glen

Tire/Gear Calculator
 

Recovry4x4

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700s can be made to be pretty tough, at least much more tougher than wht a 6.2 can provide.
 
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