Any ideas after all of the the different brands and thickness has one stood out best for knocking the heat down in the hot time of the year and how was the best way for securing it to the ceiling and walls to keep it from coming down on your head .
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Is there a consensus of which insulation for cab ceilings is best bang for the buck?
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coachgeo
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From all I've read.. The answer is NO.. on consensus. Use what ya want.. None of the typical auto/truck type insulations done have made a resounding difference over others. The most anyone has done that really made a difference over those has been going with full van life/ RV insulation of reflective sound /heat mat along 2" of insulating wool and vinyl headliner glued to headliner board
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I shot (white) Lizard Skin Ceramic insulation on the roof, then top coated it with white automotive paint. On the inside I have 1.5" closed cell foam going under the headliner.
The difference of inside temps was distinct between the before and after of the Lizard Skin.
The difference of inside temps was distinct between the before and after of the Lizard Skin.
dependable
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I used Raamat, which is a little less expensive than Dynamat, similar product. Then I spray on Lizzard skin over it with an undercoating gun where it is appropriate.
Porous mats and headliner type material is good for up high, but don't use on or near floor as will hold water and promote rust.
Porous mats and headliner type material is good for up high, but don't use on or near floor as will hold water and promote rust.
Sound Deadening vibration reducing coating
Reduce noise with sound deadening acoustical waterbase coating that will reduce sound and absorb vibration
hytechsales.com
Do you use it inside or outside the cab?
I was thinking of maybe 1 in rubatex sheets and cut them out to fit all the different shapes in the ceiling and use spray contact cement to hold them in place then take a 1/4 in piece of plywood with some kind of gray short knap carpet on it then when i put it up im already sitting on a roll of the chrome bubble rap insulation so throw it on top of the plywood on the way up and just screw into the metal webing in the ceiling! The spray coatings on the roof sounds interesting and where do you find RAAMAT I did a quick search but didnt spot any ! Thanks to all the suggestions .
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I've put on 2 coats of the Lizard Skin soundproofing on the entire inside of the cab, plus underneath.
Never thought to try how thick it could go?
I did top the underside of the cab with their black CI coating against engine heat, then topped it with Bed Armor against abrasion.
I may contact them to see how thick this can go.
I never thought about that i used it around my water tank under the bed just get some in 3/4 or1 in and use constrution adhesive in a caulk gun to stick it up there the plywood/carpet headliner ! Good idea Thanks
I used HEATSHEILDPRODUCTS under the cab its like 2x2 ft aluminum and black rubber adhesive backed and i coverd every sq in of the doghouse and it seems to do a real good job on heat and sound but im out of it now and its not cheap the spray rout might be a good direction to spray walls and door interiors the upholster something over the walls i think will work good Thanks
What was your thinking of putting the Lizzard skin over the Raamat instead of the Raamat over the Lizzardsking? Do you think it would work either way?
dependable
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I think the Raamat would stick to the metal better than to the lizzard skin, plus paint more likely to stick to Lizzard skin than to the Raamat. That was my thinking anyway, have only done it in that order.
ramdough
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Ok resurrecting this thread.
I am about to start insulating the inside of the cab. I have the doghouse done with hood liner.
I plan to use KillMat on the sheet metal. I also have some Noico red….not enough for all areas.
Anyone have a suggestion for a filler insulation to go between the thick frames before I put in the wood liners (with carpet)? I prefer a soft foam, bat, or something I can adhere in place. I would prefer no rigid foam or sprayed products.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I am about to start insulating the inside of the cab. I have the doghouse done with hood liner.
I plan to use KillMat on the sheet metal. I also have some Noico red….not enough for all areas.
Anyone have a suggestion for a filler insulation to go between the thick frames before I put in the wood liners (with carpet)? I prefer a soft foam, bat, or something I can adhere in place. I would prefer no rigid foam or sprayed products.
Thanks!
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Ronmar
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I like the properties of rockwool if you are wanting batt insulation…
gslader
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I'm just doing this in real-time. As a preface I'm based in Northern California in the Sierras so our temperature environment is pretty mild (no really hot Texas summers and no frigid northern great plains winters) so thermal insulation isn't as critical to me (also the heaters and AC on these rigs are amazing) and I am most focused on noise attenuation.
That said, here is what I am doing. Right now I am using Kilmat (this) as a base layer then putting 1/2" closed cell marine neoprene (this) over the Kilmat in the recessed areas of the cab ceiling and back wall. Here is an in-process photo with the Kilmat down and part of the marine neoprene down (on the far side of the cab).
For the areas that are still recessed I will use 1/2 or 3/4 rigid foam insulation (here) to fill the remaining recessed voids. The final interior will be 1/2 baltic birch plywood upholstered with marine carpet upholstery (here). I've used this marine upholstery on both of my doors and been very happy with it so far.
Will let you know how the rest of it goes!
That said, here is what I am doing. Right now I am using Kilmat (this) as a base layer then putting 1/2" closed cell marine neoprene (this) over the Kilmat in the recessed areas of the cab ceiling and back wall. Here is an in-process photo with the Kilmat down and part of the marine neoprene down (on the far side of the cab).
For the areas that are still recessed I will use 1/2 or 3/4 rigid foam insulation (here) to fill the remaining recessed voids. The final interior will be 1/2 baltic birch plywood upholstered with marine carpet upholstery (here). I've used this marine upholstery on both of my doors and been very happy with it so far.
Will let you know how the rest of it goes!
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I sure do like that seat and diamond plating. floor. Please share the brands or materials as it looks great.
gslader
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Thanks for the kind words. I did a full write-up on the flooring install (along with relevant product links) on this post: https://steelsoldiers.com/threads/beginning-the-journey.208604/page-3#post-2462875
However if you want the TL;DR version the flooring I used is here and the seats are Chrysler Pacifica "Stow and Go" seats off of ebay.
Third From Texas
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I'll echo the Chrysler Pacifica seats.
I got mine NOS out of a local conversion-to-handicapped van. $50 for the pair on FB market and a 5 minute drive. Bonus if you find them heated.
Pro Tip:
The trick to seats in these trucks is to keep the seat bases as close to or below the level of the "hump". Any higher and you need to be about 6' tall to reach the pedals (same for passengers reaching the floor).
