Is there a consensus on cab floor sound / heat shield?

[ramdough]

Lizardskin does a pretty good job. You can spray it with a abrasive gun found at tractor supply for about $20. Nothing likes to stick to it though. Not even 3M super 77 can get a blanket to stick to it.

You can use the horse stall mats from tractor supply 4ft x 6ft and line your floor with it. It is 3/4" thick and made of rubber and fiberglass so it is a good barrier. Dropped my floor temp by 10 degrees. Just cut to fit. You can cut it and mold it on the hump in the LMTV.

You can also try simmons industries rubberized coating.

If you aree going to cover your floor up anyway. You can also cut the horse stall mat and hold it up against the bottom side of the cab and have someone drill thru with self tap screws and then put caps on the screw tips with large washers to hold the mat in place. Then do the same on the inside. It will barrier it pretty well. It is also good to 300+ degrees. Should be fine as long as it doesnt fall on the turbo.

https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/4-ft-x-6-ft-x-3-4-in-thick-rubber-stall-mat

Do you have pictures of how it turned out? I am really curious about how well it covered the hump.


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[simp5782]

Do you have pictures of how it turned out? I am really curious about how well it covered the hump.


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[/QUOTE

Rhino liner over the lizard skin

 

[19Detail]

When I got mine, it had the factory sound coating on the floor. I scraped that all off and found that there were several places that were rusty underneath with no visual sign (no visible rust, not bubbling of the coating). I scraped the rust off and hit it with rust reformer from Rustoleum. Then I painted the entire floor with black Rustoleum Industrial paint. It had industrial right in the name, so you know it was good. : )
Then I covered the floor and the hump with Rockville sound deadener. It was 50sf for $100. That was enough to do the entire floor with the exception of where your feet go. I used the scraps and what was left over to do bits of the front and the doors and under the rear window. The doors and under the window have about a 1sf of material in the center of the door/opening. From what I read (and it seemed to be the case for me), the door/wall metal is like a big drum head and you don't have to cover the whole thing to keep it from resonating. What I read was 20% coverage will get you about 80% of what 100% coverage will get you. That seemed to be true as knocking on the door and rear panels sounds like a thump instead of sheet metal. The stuff is easy enough to work with, just make sure you get the roller with it as you really need it to apply it correctly (it is the same price with or without the roller).
Under the hump I use 2 boxes of Dynamat hoodliner (3/4"). That was about $100 for the 2 boxes. I am not sure how much it did for sound dampening as I already had the butyl rubber, but it cuts down on the heat from the engine tremendously. When I drove it in the summer, the hump would be warm to the touch. After I put in the headliner, the hump was as cool as the door and stayed that way, even after driving for an hour. Many people have videos applying the hoodliner, but the first place I saw it was BrokeOverland on YouTube. You don't need any special skills or tools to put it on.
Here are some pics of it:

 

[Coffey1]

What I used

 

[ramdough]

When I got mine, it had the factory sound coating on the floor. I scraped that all off and found that there were several places that were rusty underneath with no visual sign (no visible rust, not bubbling of the coating). I scraped the rust off and hit it with rust reformer from Rustoleum. Then I painted the entire floor with black Rustoleum Industrial paint. It had industrial right in the name, so you know it was good. : )
Then I covered the floor and the hump with Rockville sound deadener. It was 50sf for $100. That was enough to do the entire floor with the exception of where your feet go. I used the scraps and what was left over to do bits of the front and the doors and under the rear window. The doors and under the window have about a 1sf of material in the center of the door/opening. From what I read (and it seemed to be the case for me), the door/wall metal is like a big drum head and you don't have to cover the whole thing to keep it from resonating. What I read was 20% coverage will get you about 80% of what 100% coverage will get you. That seemed to be true as knocking on the door and rear panels sounds like a thump instead of sheet metal. The stuff is easy enough to work with, just make sure you get the roller with it as you really need it to apply it correctly (it is the same price with or without the roller).
Under the hump I use 2 boxes of Dynamat hoodliner (3/4"). That was about $100 for the 2 boxes. I am not sure how much it did for sound dampening as I already had the butyl rubber, but it cuts down on the heat from the engine tremendously. When I drove it in the summer, the hump would be warm to the touch. After I put in the headliner, the hump was as cool as the door and stayed that way, even after driving for an hour. Many people have videos applying the hoodliner, but the first place I saw it was BrokeOverland on YouTube. You don't need any special skills or tools to put it on.
Here are some pics of it:
View attachment 790108View attachment 790148View attachment 790149

Where do you get your stuff from?


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[ramdough]

View attachment 790156
What I used

Where did you use it? Under the hump?


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[ramdough]

Rhino liner over the lizard skin

How much did it help?


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[Coffey1]

Underneath cab yes it helped a great deal

 

[Reworked LMTV]

Noico 80 mil 36 sqft car Sound deadening mat, Butyl Automotive Sound Deadener, Audio Noise Insulation and dampening

Awesome and good price. Ordered on the Jungle.

 

[19Detail]

Where do you get your stuff from?


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I got it off Amazon. I just looked for the cheapest price on that specific brand. It fits pretty well, I think I only had to trim off a little bit on one side. BrokeOverland's video on YouTube is really good at showing how it goes on.

I have the butyl rubber on the floor on the inside and that stops a lot but the foil on liner keeps a lot of the heat out. I imagine lizard skin works well as it will stop the metal from resonating. I just didn't have the tools or experience and the rubber just sticks on.

I just checked the hoodliner yesterday and everything looks good after about 6 months.

 

[Learning2]

On my Deuce I rhino lined the floors ans up the back side of the cab then use FAT MAT under the floor over the top of the transmission and where the shift lever comes through the floor. It went from an earplugs only truck to a truck where two people can talk comfortably, no ear plugs needed, I am sure others have done more but this is what my truck needed!
KK

What did you put on top of the Fat Mat? Did you paint it, or put something else on top of it?

 

[Ohiobenz]

I shot the Lizard Skin soundproofing both inside and under the cab, several coats. Then the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation underneath on top of the soundproofing per their instructions.
Like others said, I found corrosion under the interior floor coating, so that was all stripped off, treated with Ospho, the Rustoleum, then Lizard Skin soundproofing.
I replaced the original floor mats, added a rubber mat bonded to automotive carpeting.
The cab roof was shot with white Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation, topped with white automotive paint.

 

[Learning2]

I shot the Lizard Skin soundproofing both inside and under the cab, several coats. Then the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation underneath on top of the soundproofing per their instructions.
Like others said, I found corrosion under the interior floor coating, so that was all stripped off, treated with Ospho, the Rustoleum, then Lizard Skin soundproofing.
I replaced the original floor mats, added a rubber mat bonded to automotive carpeting.
The cab roof was shot with white Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation, topped with white automotive paint.

I haven't been able to find any of the original floor mats. My truck is all bare metal, no carpets, no mats.

 

[spankybear]

I haven't been able to find any of the original floor mats. My truck is all bare metal, no carpets, no mats.

Supraman <sp>(Will) had the mats. They only cover the floor under your feet. I got one from him and cut the OEM one to match. He has a picture of the driver side mat on his ebay page. I believe he also had passenger side but I didn't need that one.

 

[rccjunk]

I shot the Lizard Skin soundproofing both inside and under the cab, several coats. Then the Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation underneath on top of the soundproofing per their instructions.
Like others said, I found corrosion under the interior floor coating, so that was all stripped off, treated with Ospho, the Rustoleum, then Lizard Skin soundproofing.
I replaced the original floor mats, added a rubber mat bonded to automotive carpeting.
The cab roof was shot with white Lizard Skin Ceramic Insulation, topped with white automotive paint.

Can you post pictures? Thanks

 

[Third From Texas]

I haven't been able to find any of the original floor mats. My truck is all bare metal, no carpets, no mats.

You may want to price making your own. The shop that does my sewing gave me a $50 quote on stitching (there are really just the two seams at the engine cowling).

Cab Insulation - Floor Mats

 

[Ohiobenz]

Can you post pictures? Thanks

You may want to price making your own. The shop that does my sewing gave me a $50 quote on stitching (there are really just the two seams at the engine cowling).

Cab Insulation - Floor Mats

The engine cowling is a bit more complex than "2 seams" there's a lot of curvature going on. It cost me $400 for the automotive carpet, and I provided the pattern and the base material for the carpet to be glued and down onto.