Is there a easy way to remove the rivets?

[shedhunter]

I,m building my first shorty, and have all of the heads off of the rivets. But I'm really having a very hard time driving the rivets out? Maybe I'll have to drill em huh! Also looking for all of the spring to axle mounts off the front end of a deuce if I can find them at reasonable price.

 

[CTTravis]

Drill Baby Drill.

 

[Angus1]

Fire Wrench is your friend.

 

[atilathehun]

fire wrench will take the temper out of the frame right i would drill her home man with lots of oil to cool the bit and slow speed on the drill with a good sharp drill u should get one long coil out of the bit not chips of metal with cutting oil used

 

[gimpyrobb]

Yup, of the ones I've done, I drilled the rivet best I could and then used an air hammer to drive them the rest of the way out.

 

[Ridgerunner]

I just did mine. I cut the rivet heads off with a torch and then I used a grinder to make sure there wasn't any part of the head left over. Drove them out with a hammer (the largest BFH you can use works best) I didn't drill a single rivet.

To remove the side plate that holds the tandem suspension, cut off the rivet heads and then use a coulpe chisels between the frame and plate, and it comes off fairly easy.

Same with the tandem suspension mount. Take out any bolts that hold it on and then cut off the remaining rivet heads inside the frame rail, then use the same chisels to seperate the two, and they pull through the frame with the suspension. This way with the rivets gone you can bolt the crossmember back to the frame with bolts through the remaining rivet holes.

Most of the rivets you can leave right in the frame (side plate rivets for example). Just grind smooth with the frame once the plate is gone and call it good. That way it dosn't look all Swiss-Cheesy for no reason.

 

[comdiver]

To answer your question, no, there is no easy way. I ground the heads off, then center punched and drilled. I started with a 3/16" bit and then used a 3/8" bit. I didn't drill all the way through the backside head. Then I took a drift and knocked the rivets out. There are a lot of rivets!

 

[actionpaintball]

Anyone used a plasma cutter with good success?

 

[gregary]

Just did mine lasst sunday and have to agree with Ridgerunner on the side plates. I started with small chisels and worked my way up. CAUTION!!!!! twice, as I was driving the bigger chisels in, they shot out with incredible force. Landed about 30 feet away. As for the vertical rivets inside the cross member, I cut the heads with a torch then using a skid steer, I picked up the back of the truck high enough to clear the tires. A few hits on the springs on each side and they came loose.

 

[wsucougarx]

drill

 

[wreckerman893]

Just did mine lasst sunday and have to agree with Ridgerunner on the side plates. I started with small chisels and worked my way up. CAUTION!!!!! twice, as I was driving the bigger chisels in, they shot out with incredible force

Ask Freightrain about those flying chisels

 

[Chevytruck]

Ask Freightrain about those flying chisels

i didn't hear the story... but the thought of it is just hilarious!

 

[Floridianson]

fire wrench will take the temper out of the frame right i would drill her home man with lots of oil to cool the bit and slow speed on the drill with a good sharp drill u should get one long coil out of the bit not chips of metal with cutting oil used

Seems like if you good with fire you would cut the heads off the rivets and you won't even get the frame hot enough to cook a egg.

I would worry more about bolting the springs back on and not EVER being as strong a rivets.

Fire Good

 

[m16ty]

As far as the front springs go, It won't really matter if you get the frame hot because if the truck was any good you wouldn't be removing the front springs . That being said, I don't think you will get the frame that hot and I've welded and cut on truck frames (shortning or lengthening frames) on trucks that haul over 100,000lbs and never had a problem.

The last rivets I removed I cut the heads with a torch, had one person hold a long bar, and I swung a big sledgehammer to get them out. They are tight but it's faster than drilling.

 

[jrou111]

I can't wait to go through this rite of passage

 

[rivired]

Ya id also like to know how a P. Cutter works if anyone has tried it.. (plasma gouging)method.

I dont have a torch so im gonna rent a Plasma cuz its very cheap compared to buying a torch that i wont use much after.

 

[Jones]

The reason rivets are so successful is that they expand into all of the hole.

The trick to getting them out is to grind off the head on one side completely flush with the frame surface or bracket or whatever. You've gotta be really good with a torch or you can end up gouging the part(s) you're trying to free up. A torch can also harden the remainder of the rivet and make it really ugly to drill. This is one of those jobs where you don't want to break off a drill bit.

Next start drilling the rivet shank out. Starting with a small bit like 18*" and sneaking up on the final diameter will give you a lot better chance of keeping the hole straight.
Like comdiver sez; drill out the shank but not all the way through the head you've left on the opposite side.
Stop drilling out the shank when you're still undersized by a 1/16"or so. Slip a pin punch into the hole and drive the rivet out of the hole with not much more than a big ball-pein hammer, easy as pie.

Drilling out most of the rivet shank weakens and allows the remaining shank "sleeve" to collapse; while leaving the head on the opposite side gives you something to drive against.

By all means; Wear gloves (you're bound to miss the punch a time or two).
Wear ear plugs (all the hammering adds up.
Plan on ending up with arms like Popeye.

Spare yourself learning to hot rivet when it's time for re-assembly.
All the newer trucks have bolt-together frames.

I'll leave someone else to start the grade 8 (much stronger, but snap instead of flexing) vs. grade 5 (not as strong but will flex and stretch before breaking) debate.