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Is this normal...? Replacing Oil Cooler lines...

Asmoday

Member
225
0
16
Location
Los Angeles, CA
Hello All,

So I picked up my new factory GM oil cooler lines yesterday from my local dealer. I was disappointed to see that one line was made in Mexico and the other China. Oh well...what can you do.

Anyway I noticed this notch on the existing oil cooler line from the block when I first picked up my M1009 last year. I did not pay a whole lot of attention thinking actually that it looked like a factory notch in the metal line. Upon picking up the new lines I realize now that the notch was indeed made by the arm that comes off the steering column for the gear select.

Has anyone else seen this happen? I have not installed the new lines yet but the new lines sure look line the old lines as far as bend radius etc. etc. yet with no notch.

Notice the notch in the metal portion of the line. The line was also wearing on a body edge as well...
 

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camogriz

Member
142
0
16
Location
Carmel, NY
That notch is definitely not supposed to be there. Your gear lever is rubbing the oil line and will eventually create a hole if not addressed. When installing the new lines you purchased, make sure they don't come too close to moving or stationary components. The aluminum lines can be gently bent and rerouted to avoid anything. Gently is the key word as the aluminum will crack and break if stressed too much.
 

Asmoday

Member
225
0
16
Location
Los Angeles, CA
The current GM part numbers are as follows...

12472199 Upper

12472200 Lower

The hoses look identical to my original hoses including all the GM code printing on the rubber hose section but they are made in China and Mexico.

For what it's worth the aluminum pipe sections across the radiator are still available as well until stock is depleted.

The upper pipe is available from Vintage Parts and the GM dealer can order it...

part number 14061344

The lower pipe is still available from the dealer and the part number is 14061345

The o-ring seals are easy to get at the dealer as well but I use a much higher grade slightly thicker o-ring made from Fluorosilicone which I get from a aviation vendor.
 

markx250

New member
30
0
0
Location
Charlottesville, VA
This is one job you do not want to rush. My lines, from NAPA, did not match the original bends at all. Take your time and carefully bend until they clear everything and each other. They seem to be fragile aluminum and it would not take long to wear a hole in one. Everytime I pull the dipstick I look down there to make sure they have not rotated out of position.
 

misupratwin

Member
143
1
18
Location
Battle Creek , Michigan
I worked at a gm dealer for 10 years ,very common for them to fail while driving down the road (where the rubber is swegded to the aluminum tube)

As far as the rub mark in your line, check your body mounts you may find that the body has moved or dropped. That rod is for the shifter and it is adjustable. Tim
 

markx250

New member
30
0
0
Location
Charlottesville, VA
Do some searching. Others on here (SouthDave I recall) have just put on barbed fittings and run oil line the whole way. I like that idea since it eliminates the rubber/aluminum joint, but not sure how it makes the tight radius bends down around the exhaust manifold.
 

Tanner

Active member
1,013
11
38
Location
Raleigh, NC
The lines weren't designed to last forever - I used to get 6-7 years from them before they started leaking.

Tanner
 

Matt65

New member
532
3
0
Location
Alabama
FWIW I have had my truck over two years. During that time it has never had the engine oil cooler lines installed. The engine and Rad. ports have all been plugged. It's on my list of projects to complete in the future. I have hauled to full gross at 95F or better Amb. with no over heating. I plan on bending and flareing my own as I did on the Trans cooler lines.
 
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