-
Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!
it looks like the driver side axle mount is pushed back
- Thread starter 319cssb
- Start date
Garagefull
Member
- 80
- 45
- 18
- Location
- Reno Ohio
Are you using the rubber bumper on the frame as a reference?Or am I just not seeing something?
Garagefull
Member
- 80
- 45
- 18
- Location
- Reno Ohio
I just went out and looked at mine.. my passenger side bumper is lined up center, but the driver side axle is slightly behind that bumper. But not as far as yours.I would observe the shackles on the rear of the springs on both sides to see if they appear to be at the same angle.. you might want to look at that leaf spring pack real close and make sure you haven't broken a spring or have a weak one that has lost its arch..thus changing the length of the spring.. and yours appears to be shifted towards the shackle.
Last edited:
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
Are the rear shackles still intact. I seen many that have no rubber left in the frame shackle at the rea mount. Also check your leaf spring centering pin. It could be sheared. Merry Christmas.
Garagefull
Member
- 80
- 45
- 18
- Location
- Reno Ohio
I am referring to the pivot point at the rear of the spring. And as stated above, if the rubber is gone in the bushing,or a center pin broken on the spring pack. But if it has scooted back you ought to be able to see signs of movement around the U-Bolt area.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
How about a picture of the rear shackles on the front spring? Is the eye of the spring resting on the frame? I would guess that is where you are getting the set back.
nyoffroad
Well-known member
- 942
- 690
- 93
- Location
- Rochester NY
Unless you hit something and bent the frame the above is the most likely cause. The rubber bushing that go in the front shackles is available at NAPA for about $20
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
I have changed the frame part on 2 CUCV's the hole was egg shaped and steel on steel. When I put the new bushings in the rubber was still pushing up in the top part. I use Energy Suspension now. They are a bit stiffer and can acomidate the wear better then the rubber ones. The ride may be better. But I never drove a CUCV looking for a nice smooth ride. Granted I like a firm rattle free ride. I fix every rattle and noise I can find and correct. Squeaking gun mounts and whistling wing vents. Nothing a nut and bolt can't fix and in the wind vent a garden hose washer replaces the latch spacers. Merry Christmas.
Steering wheel is off and then some
I took inspiration in sneekyeyes thead and since i have a similar issue i want to start my own to not get replies confused or jumbled up.
My left axle is back toward the fender by about an inch and a half. My steering wheel is off center. The truck drives kind of wonky but that can have other issues like shocks and lead spring bushes. Ill go through it all but i want to tackle one issue at a time.
I meassured from the right rear tire at a certain height to the front hub and this is how i measured the difference between left and right front axle. You can also see it with the naked eye.
so how do i remedy this? Take the sway bar off. Lift the truck by the frame. Take off front wheel. Losen axle shackle bolts on the left axle and then? Use q BFH and move the axle forward or strap to a come along and do it that way?
Has anyone had this issue?
I took inspiration in sneekyeyes thead and since i have a similar issue i want to start my own to not get replies confused or jumbled up.
My left axle is back toward the fender by about an inch and a half. My steering wheel is off center. The truck drives kind of wonky but that can have other issues like shocks and lead spring bushes. Ill go through it all but i want to tackle one issue at a time.
I meassured from the right rear tire at a certain height to the front hub and this is how i measured the difference between left and right front axle. You can also see it with the naked eye.
so how do i remedy this? Take the sway bar off. Lift the truck by the frame. Take off front wheel. Losen axle shackle bolts on the left axle and then? Use q BFH and move the axle forward or strap to a come along and do it that way?
Has anyone had this issue?
So I took a few photo's maybe they will illustrate the situation a bit better.
this photo above is the passenger side
This picture above is the driver side.
I measured from the passenger rear tire lip at 14" above the ground and got 100 1/2" between rear tire and the edge of the front wheel hub. On the driver side it was only 99" as you can see.
The wheels were straight. The steering wheel isn't.
this photo above is the passenger side
This picture above is the driver side.
I measured from the passenger rear tire lip at 14" above the ground and got 100 1/2" between rear tire and the edge of the front wheel hub. On the driver side it was only 99" as you can see.
The wheels were straight. The steering wheel isn't.
nyoffroad
Well-known member
- 942
- 690
- 93
- Location
- Rochester NY
Your on the right road but your kinda getting ahead of yourself, now that you know you have a problem you now need to find exactly where it is. To do that you need to start by taking some X measurement's from the same place on one side the repeating the SAME place on the other side. Lets say you start at the front of the left rear spring hanger at the lowest rivet and measure across to the rear of the right hanger and get (WAG) 89.5" and then do the exact reverse and come up with the same 89.5". Then you know the problem is in front of that and measure accordingly. The longer the measurement the easier it is to see the difference. It helps to have a helper and doing this can quickly find or eliminate frame damage. Hopefully all will be the same until you get to the springs and you find worn bushings or sheared pin.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
You can take the U bolts off and jack the weight of the truck off the spring pack. You are going to need to get an eye ball up in that area to inspect the centering pin. Also the axle could be bent. That is the long side of the axle. I doubt it but it is possible. I had Dana 60 axles snap in half after an impact.
A tip from a guy who just did this, you can jack it up by the front axle and put large jack stands under the frame near the trans cross member. Then let the axle drop to get a lot more room for the top nuts. Make sure the sway bar is connected when you start to torque down the u bolts, or you'll probably have to do it twice if it doesn't line back up. Just support it with the jack and it wont fall when you remove all the nuts. If the center bolt is broken, your springs will probably come apart when you loosen the u bolts. Hopefully its something obvious, unlike mine. I'm still fiddling with it trying to find an issue.
Leaf spring center bolts are pretty cheap, the o'Reilly around here has them in stock, and autozone too. You'll have to cut them down.
Leaf spring center bolts are pretty cheap, the o'Reilly around here has them in stock, and autozone too. You'll have to cut them down.
cucvrus
Well-known member
- 11,473
- 10,434
- 113
- Location
- Jonestown Pennsylvania
A new set of leaf springs will cost a bit but well worth the effort. Trust me I have been putting them on several of the CUCV's I rebuilt. Amazing what difference 30 year newer springs make. 
nyoffroad
Well-known member
- 942
- 690
- 93
- Location
- Rochester NY
You can say that again! Put new ones on mine and even with the plow raised in still sits higher than before WITHOUT the plow. Rides better too.
What I plan on doing is this:
Get the bottle jack from the LMTV jack up the body high enough and secure with a large jack stand.
Get two c clamps put them on the springs.
Losen the U-clamp bolts.
Take off the sway bar at the frame.
Take off the drive side wheel.
Use another jack to support the axle.
take off the U-clamp
Drop the axle until the pin becomes visible. replace if broken.
Not sure if the c-clamp will do much good, since I strongly suspect that the locating pin is sheered. But It'll probably make things easier if it is. Not sure never done this before.
Any suggestions?
I'll shop for new springs
Get the bottle jack from the LMTV jack up the body high enough and secure with a large jack stand.
Get two c clamps put them on the springs.
Losen the U-clamp bolts.
Take off the sway bar at the frame.
Take off the drive side wheel.
Use another jack to support the axle.
take off the U-clamp
Drop the axle until the pin becomes visible. replace if broken.
Not sure if the c-clamp will do much good, since I strongly suspect that the locating pin is sheered. But It'll probably make things easier if it is. Not sure never done this before.
Any suggestions?
I'll shop for new springs