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Jack for a Deuce and a half

Warthog

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The trucks usually used a bottle jack.

A few blocks (4"x4") of wood and a bottle jack will do most everything you will beed. I would use a 20ton or bigger.
 

3dAngus

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Cheap at Harbor Freight. Make sure you get one with a long neck though. Best place to purchase. "The Georgia Rally" 30 ton long neck was $12 last year. 20 ton standard was $10 and both were very clean with handle.

Oops, sorry, you're in Colorado. Harbor Freight or Tractor Supply. Some 16" pressure treated 6X6s or PT 2X12's stacked up work even better. Do not use a concrete block!!! Good luck.
 

SMOKEWAGON66

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Id say a 6 ton or better bottlejack would be plenty for lifting a wheel or a set of duals. 6 ton or better jackstands are always good. I use 2 foot long pieces of railroad ties and pressure treated 4X4's or 4X6's if I have to set the truck down off the jack.

And always remember the 3 cardinal rules of jacking a truck

1. SAFETY

2. SAFETY

3. SAFETY

[thumbzup]

Also...Personally I avoid Harbor Freight...they are cheap, but you do get what you pay for.
 

m816

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Yep, as far as El Chaepo Horbor Freight goes, I like the 20 ton bottle jacks for the deuces. They work okay and are cheap enough if they start leakiing. I paint them up OD and they stow just fine.
 

wreckerman893

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You're also going to need a lug wrench and handle, if you don't have one already.
The issue lug wrench and handle are adequate but are (IMHO) a PITA to use.

The best investment you can make for changing tires without an one inch air wrench is a one inch pull bar and a bud socket.......you'll also need an extension for the rear wheels.

Resting the pull bar on a jack stand will somtimes help keep the socket from slipping off.

Edit: A good cheater pipe to slip on the handle of the pull bar will help with those stubborn lug nuts. One of the aluminum pipes from the camoflage kits is light and easy to use.

Don't forget that the lug nuts on the drivers side are bass akwards from the other side.
 

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gungearz

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Yep... Harbor freight has the best budget buy on bottle jacks. I bought my 8 ton bottle jack on sale for $25. I cut 6 pieces of 2X8's at 15" long, put 2 pieces side by side and crossed 2 more over them. screwed those together, then crossed the last 2 over those. That's what I use for a base so I don't put a hole in my driveway with the bottle jack or even worse..... Sinking the jack in something while the tired is off the ground.
 

NoLeftTurns

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Hey, near you and have done some work on my tires. I used the cheap 20ton harbor freight bottle jack. However I would ask if anyone has experience with an air powered hydraulic jack? I know they exist and all but I want to know if anyone has used the deuce itself (air) to lift itself. And then maybe air impact for lugs? I know you all may say it won't be powerful enough, but what are the lugs supposed to be torques to? Not a harbor freight there of course.
 

gungearz

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How do you check the torque on your lugs when you get a roadside flat? I'm not sure if the TM's have torque specs but alls I know is I tighten the heck out of them, drive the truck for about 10 miles then check em again. If I find one with any play, I continue to check them until they are on there good. As for a air jack. Yes a 10 ton air jack will work on a deuce but the trucks air supply won't keep at a continuous 100 psi to get it off the ground for a garage, its fine. A 10 ton bottle jack is easier to store for roadside emergencies. They do sell a 1" impact gun setup to use with your glad hand on the back of the truck to quickly take off your lug nuts to make tire swapping faster.
 

NoLeftTurns

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Well you would have to know the torque before you get the flat. I agree I just tighten the **** out of them and then recheck, but I know what my impact is rated to (approx). I'm almost positive there is a TM out there with a proper torque spec, but I don't know which one. The proper way would involve a large torque wrench and hand setting. $$$.

I am fairly sure the air hydraulic bottle jack doesn't take much more space to store than the standard bottle jack. They usually have a manual option as well. I figure a small air pig tank would help the impact, still don't know if it would be reasonably fast or not. Possibly a cheap old propane tank. Need to keep a large 3/4 or 1" breaker bar or torque wrench incase of compressor failure.
 

gungearz

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Well.... After 1436 pages, bandages on my thumbs and on my 2nd pot of coffee for ya. The only TM I came up with is TM9-2320-361-10. Under wheel to axle removal. Alls it says is to contact your supervisor for the proper torque specifications. So I guess, if you get a flat on the side of the road. Head to the nearest guard and talk to a supervisor and they will assist you.
 

NoLeftTurns

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Perhaps you are correct soldier. I didnt do as thorough of a search as you may have done. I did however use the search function on this website and found a few threads one wheels torque specs. They were all over the place ranging from m37 and other vehicles.

I think if you search a thread called "torque on wheel nuts" you will find a thread last posted about 3 months ago with this info. TM-9-2320-209-10-4 page 39. I cannot comment myself because I have not had time to actually verify this info first hand. Maybe tonight.

I'm not trying to be a SA, but I really don't think the army would give instructions on how to rebuild the engine and not how to properly torque down lug nuts. The information was available somewhere at some point. It may however be lost to time.

I also would not be concerned with lug torque specs if my goal is to get to a serviceable location. However lug torque specs can be precisely the reason you are on the side of the road with a flat to begin with.
 
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I bought my 12 ton long neck bottle jack from Agri Supply Company. I price shopped Harbor Freight but Agri Supply was cheaper. I use 4x6's because they are strong and since the are rectangular they can be configured in different ways that make them more versatile than a square piece of wood. I did by a pair of 6 ton jack stands from Harbor Freight.
 
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