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Jagular7's New M1010

jagular7

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If the batteries have been placed into a parallel setup (12v), does the glow plug resistor perform anything? I have a no start situation on a M1010, and the batteries are in parallel. It cranks with a good charge on them. There is only 1 alternator too. I do wait for the 'Wait' light goes out on the dash.
Do I need perform this By-Pass method?
I still need to make sure the relay is working.
 
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doghead

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The resistor needs to be eliminated if you have a cucv that has been converted to 12v.
 

jagular7

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24v Starter vs 12v Starter

I picked up a M1010 from a city. The city's garage stated it does run. I've trickle charged the batteries. It turns over but won't start. I do wait for the 'Wait' light to go out for the glow plugs. However, the batteries are in parallel (12v) and no longer in series (24v). I haven't had time other than to pull it off my trailer and let it sit on the road.

Question, can a 24v starter rotate with a 12v dual battery setup?
 

doghead

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Can it rotate, yes.

Will it turn over your engine fast enough to reliably start it, no.

Here's a suggestion, start and continue one thread on your new vehicle. It will help you and everyone else.
 

trukhead

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Leave it on the trailer until You can get it to start if you own the trailer. I have had one CUCV with a 12 volt starter and the accompanying 12 volt conversion. When the glow plugs are proper and fully operational and the fuel filter base is not leaking and the lift pump is working and the fuel lines are not cracked and leaking and the temperature unit for the glow plug circuit is working and the glow plug card is not shot and everything else is in order, the 12 volt starter worked fine down to 15*F with a good 31-4 semi truck battery. It would not crank over long but it would crank over long enough to start. If something is not up to par it gets dicey very quickly.
Get familiar with the TM's and search the threads for CUCV issues. Every issue has been covered and addressed here on the site. The fuel filter base and glow plugs and circuit are great places to start.2cents
 

jagular7

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Ok, thanks.

Just went out there few minutes ago to take more close-ups and to look for what I've been reading on here.
Its obvious the city's garage didn't understand or know what they were doing. Though, they had pic of it running showing the alternator spinning. I'll have to go in and start labeling wire and their systems. They put a on/off switch on the ground and left the 24v jumper harness connected to the buss.
 

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jagular7

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Thanks for the info and suggestions.

Just went back out to take close-ups of the issue areas I've been reading. My driveway is 23* and I have a hill on the street. The trailer can't sit in front of the house for day or so. I've gotten letters from city about not following the parking regulations...LOL. I'm a frequent drive by for the city and their regulation crew.

One battery connector is cracked so that needs replacement. Batteries are setup in parallel. The 24v jumper in the grille is still attached to the busses. There is a cut-off switch on the ground side of the batteries before the ground buss. The glow plug resistor is still integrated from the buss to the relay. The DUVAC is still there. There is a red thin wire coming off the 12v buss, goes into a connector with a resistor, and then an orange comes out for the DUVAC. The alternators are on the same side, though there is only one now. The second's harness has been wrapped up tight.

From reading here other areas I need to go check on: the 24v starter relay under dash scenario, remove glow plug resistor via by-pass mod, and check fuel flow.
 

doghead

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I've combined your posts into one thread.
 

Skinny

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I hate to say this but rig the IP with a jumper wire to the batt, get it to crank, pull the GP card, and use starting fluid or a gas soaked rag to get it to fire. A bullet heater pointed at the engine may help you out significantly.

As long as your fuel system is air free, you will atleast be able to unload it and park somewhere safe.
 
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