Joining the MKT90 family

[61sleepercab]

Anyone out there have the name and part number for a civilian version of the MBU power cord end?????
I want to make a test cord with a 24dc power source. Thanks Mark

 

[scootr14]

Ok, thanks Jason, I have some spare 1" square tubing laying around here somewhere. Shouldn't be too much of a trouble to weld one or two up real quick. In the meantime (before I read your note about the Delphi connectors), I rigged up my burners, so I could test them. It ain't great, but I got to see how the units worked.

 

[scootr14]

And you can't do all that without having fruits of the labor.

Bacon makes it all better.

 

[scootr14]

61sleeper, I've been pretty lucky with my unit, so I don't have too many complaints. I've put a message into SCSG-G4, who is the MKT guru, about the connectors. I read it somewhere in the forum about what kind they were, but I have forgotten. I know they don't come cheap, but it would be better than what I'm doing. Granted mine works, but I don't think it will pass any inspection. But let me see if I can find the connectors that Jason was referring to, and I'll get back to you.

 

[jasonjc]

I think I posted up the Mil plug numbers before on here , I think in my MKT thread. I see if I can it. It only the plugs you would still need to make them into cords. Has any tried Teleflex yet for parts? I bet it would be $$$$$$$ from them thought.

 

[SCSG-G4]

What I see in the pictures:
1. The accessory box (drawer and two doors) needs fixing or replacement.
2. Repair or new doors for the two M-59 ranges. Dawn (clingogf) has some for sale.
3. Four inch griddle, if it's warped, flip it over (they are double sided) or run the burner a little hotter on one side to even it out.
4. Looks like you have the GN full sheet adapters to go in the top of the stoves, and hopefully the aux baking sets.
5. You have the solid wall standout pins (the 3.5 foot long stainless steel rods) that hold the solid wall out at the bottom during rainy weather.
6. Crank handle for the new type roof (six vent), old style roof has 12 vents and is not as safe to open when the burners are going.
7. Could use three more water cans for the full BII, as well as two more CAMBRO food containers.
8. I'm out of spare power cords because there were a lot of people who got MKT's before you did.
9. I made a Field Sanitation Trailer out of a mostly stripped out MKT. This is the third year that we have used it at the GA Rally. The sinks are stainless steel from GL, I got lucky on the drain rack, and the rest of the parts were commercial items I bought and adapted.

 

[rumplecat]

Mike any photos of the sanitation trailer layout? I bought a couple of the field surgical sinks(heated ones) but they would just be for the cooks!
James

 

[scootr14]

The accessory box is already removed from the trailer. It is in bad shape, and not repairable. The stove doors need some TLC as well as the hinged hoods. For some reason I have 5 of the sheet adapters and all are brand new. I just found the auxiliary baking sets last night and luckily it's a complete set. I tried flipping the griddle over when I first got it, but it's warp so much in one spot, that it just sat there and spun. I can deal with it as is for right now. I'm finding out that the power cord, is as you say, unobtainium, but, I'm working on a work around. I don't want to modify the MBU's if I don't have to. 2 work fine, after multiple times of trying to start them. The others have minor issues, but I think if I take the fuel nozzle off and clean those out, that should take care of 90% of the issues.

 

[scootr14]

I saw Mikes sanitation trailer build on the forums here, and it's a really nice set up. Makes me think about getting another trailer.

 

[SCSG-G4]

Mike any photos of the sanitation trailer layout? I bought a couple of the field surgical sinks(heated ones) but they would just be for the cooks!
James

I too have a field surgical sink for the cooks to wash up their hands. Heater does not work, but the rest is as advertised.

I used commercial wire stainless steel shelving, including the raised side and back sections so stuff only comes out the front. Installed on the driver's side. Also put a third M-59 stove on that side closest to the back to boil water in for pre-heating the CAMBRO's, and making coffee and tea. Got a commercial 20 GPH grease trap mounted in the middle at the back with sched 40 pipe and a union below the deck to hook the drain hose to. On the wash side I took a cabinet for the four burners, cut it off just below the small doors, then shortened it so the three sinks would fit on it correctly. The sinks came out of Colorado Springs via GL and were picked up by another member for me, then shipped. Underneath the first (wash) sink is where the inverter sits on some commercial bar mat squares (so it's not on the floor directly). Hardest part to get the first time through was the 1 1/4 hose clamp fittings for the sink - most of them are built to handle both 1.25 and 1.5 inch, but the sinks require a pure 1.25 inch fitting to work. I have a thread on building the FST, and there are pictures of it in the 2013 and 2014 GA Rally threads. look there, then pm specific questions.

 

[gerrykan]

I'm finding out that the power cord, is as you say, unobtainium, .

Is this the cord that plugs into the slave receptacle on the truck?

 

[scootr14]

No sir. It's the cable that goes from the power converter to the MBU's.

 

[scootr14]

After researching all day, I think I've figured out the numbers for the power cable connectors.

MS3106f16-11s is for the inline socket that will plug into the MBU's. $29.00
MS3106f16-11p is for the inline pin that plugs into the power converter. $26.00
MS3106e16-11p is for the connectors with pins mounted on the MBU itself. $8.50
MS3106e16-11s is the connector that is mounted on the power converter. $9.00

So you can see how making your own cable is going to be very costly.

 

[SCSG-G4]

. 2 work fine, after multiple times of trying to start them. The others have minor issues, but I think if I take the fuel nozzle off and clean those out, that should take care of 90% of the issues.

Military says to hold the START button in for as much as 30 seconds if the unit has trouble lighting. If you get ER1, press the STOP button to clear the code, then press START again. You can do that four times before replacing the unit with a good one. I've got one unit (V3) that starts out with a blue flame (no yellow/red) and usually takes two tries to light, but it runs good once the heat builds up a bit. Every one I have is an individual, with it's own settings to get the same temp - usually around 3 o'clock under the griddles, and 2 to 3 o'clock for most baking, but 11 to 12 o'clock for boiling water in the M-59's. My highest hour unit is still under 200 hours of use, and we've use it six years at the GA Rally, plus other venues. Ones that get the most use are the three under the sinks, esp. the sanitizing sink, but it has not been as bad since we started using chlorine in the sanitizing solution - only maintaining 140 F instead of 180+ F. My response when the county inspector said I used too much bleach was 'the germs just die faster.' It passed anyway.

 

[scootr14]

No luck on 3 of the MBUs'. They light, sputter and then go out. Even after cleanning the fuel nozzle and removing the fuel filter. I purchased 2 brand new ones from GL, and they work like a charm, and even came with extra parts. So I'll use those in the other units. I have a question though. Does anyone know where to find a replacement fuel filter? The ones currently on the MBU's aren't made anymore, but I imagine there is a replacement somewhere.

 

[scootr14]

By the way, Happy Veterans Day. Thank you to all the vets that have served, and are serving our country.

 

[scootr14]

I've been working on the cables for my MBU's. I ordered 6 connectors to connect to the inside of the MBU's just as Jason suggested. And I got 6 of the cables done this past week

 

[scootr14]

.

 

[scootr14]

The orange connector is a quick disconnect from the main power line. If I ever need to move the MBU, rather than having to reach into the MBU, and disconnecting the black plug. I can just pull apart the orange plug. So in reality, I just made a 24 inch pigtail. I've already installed them on my MBU's, but didn't have my camera handy when I finished. I'll take some pictures later.

 

[scootr14]

For those of you wondering how to order the connector that connects to the mbu, I've included the name and part number in the following picture.



The numbers are hard to read, so I'll list them here.

For each connector you will need:

Product	Description	Quanity
12040977	3 Way Black Metri-Pack 280 Sealed Female Connector Assembly, Max Current 30 amps	(1)
12034145	Black Metri-Pack TPA Lock	(1)
12077411	Female Metri-Pack 280 Tin Plated Terminal, Cable Range 0.75 - 0.50 mm2, Cable Insulation Range 3.12 - 2.03 mm	(2)
15324980	Light Gray Individual Loose Cable Seal	(2)