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Just beginning my mep-003a journey

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Rodburner

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I’ve been reading posts and getting familiar with the mep 003a. Purchased 2 about a year ago. One would run for about a minute before black smoke started rolling out of the 1 and 2 cylinder exhaust. Seller thought it could be repaired and the second one sold or ke for parts. Tore down running generator and found a burnt piston in #2 cylinder. Bought a new piston and rings along with a head gasket kit. Also had injectors tested, found the one in that cylinder was bad but out of the 8 injectors I have, there were 4 good ones. Just got the generator together last week with fresh oil and filters, cleaned out the fuel tank and it fired and ran. That’s the short story lol. Took several attempts. Anyhow generator is running but frequency meter shows 0 and won’t shut down when switching to off position. Remembered previous owner said kill solenoid was missing from the running generator but there was one on the parts machine. This is as far as I’ve gotten. Do I need to get an original frequency meter or can I use a replacement one? Reading in another thread, someone was having trouble with a run away engine. Is this common?
Thanks in advance, I feel like I should only be a junior member for only having a couple of generators but I really enjoy and appreciate reading the threads. There will be more questions to come I’m sure. Thanks again!,
 
C

Chainbreaker

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Great... I now see you started a thread describing your genset issues... that's good, should help you get the specific answers/recommendations you need.

If memory serves me correctly it may not be your frequency meter as often it's the transducer that's at fault. Try searching these forums searching for "MEP-003a MEP-002a frequency transducer" & see what threads pop up.

Also, no... runaway engines on the MEP-002a/-003a are extremely rare... however as they get older with more hours it could become somewhat more common.

To get by you can always purchase a relatively cheap Kill-A-Watt meter that you can plug into the convenience outlet on genset to set genset to ~62 Hz unloaded. Then when you get a new gauge or transducer you can use the Kill-a-Watt to monitor hertz readings from inside house or shop or wherever you are using genset.
 
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Ray70

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For the frequency transducer you can either remove it and use a direct line read frequency meter, or there were TRC frequency transducers selling on ebay for <$20 that will work and just need a couple new mounting holes drilled in the control cube. There are definitely other posts here where myself and @Light in the Dark show the ebay listing and TRC PN.
Here's a current listing for a little more money, but I can't confirm if it's the same PN without looking into it deeper.
 
C

Chainbreaker

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BTW, gotta ask... where are you located in Oklahoma?

My grandparents had a wheat farm there & my parents were born there & I lived there a little while attending 1st grade before moving. Went back several times to visit Grandparents, uncles/aunts & cousins with a lot of great memories from visiting various parts of OK.
 
R

Rodburner

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I’m west of Enid a ways. Born and bred Okie. Not a farmer, but there are plenty around. Oilfield occupation, I have access to a lot of wmo and have started the process of cleaning it. The generator is intended for powering that process and I am hoping to be able to run it on the wmo. Not at that stage yet, still working out the details.
 
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Ray70

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I'd be interested in hearing more about your WMO project when you get it going. My son recently tried making black diesel to run in some of my equipment as well as our 002 and 003 and the steam genny too. It worked ok, but he was kind of guessing at the proportions which were off a little.... pretty evident by the flames shooting out of the top of the steam genny! :eek:
 
R

Rodburner

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I’m thinking to keep threads on the topic of the category I should start one in the alternative fuel category. I’d be happy to share what I’m doing and get advice from others because I haven’t burned any yet. I’ll see if I can get one going before too long. Thanks for the interest. We’ll see if someone else has an idea for reducing the flames out the stack.
 
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Rodburner

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Fuel shutoff solenoid wasn’t on the running generator. Removed one from the parts machine and installed it. Solenoid doesn’t energize when the switch is turned to the prime run position. Is the solenoid 24vdc? Is one of the wires on the switch specifically for the solenoid? I have the TM5-6115-585-34 manual but it’s a little difficult for me to navigate and the diagram on top of the control panel is very faded. Thanks
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Look at the wire diagram. Find S1-14, (The Blue Line). Put the S1 in the run position. See if you have 24 VDC at S1-14. If you do not have 24V DC tell us.
If you have 24 VDC, Measure at the K5, (Fuel cut off Solinoid) you want aprox 24VDC. One wire is supposed to have VDC and the other, goes to the safety circuit. If its not there, go back to S1-28 and check for 24 VDC. Got it? If so, hook a wire to TB5-8, (this will be the Green line) and hook the other end to TB5-9. This bypasses the safety circuit. Got voltage at K5 now? Will the set start? Tell us what happens.
 

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Ray70

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Rodburner said:
Fuel shutoff solenoid wasn’t on the running generator. Removed one from the parts machine and installed it. Solenoid doesn’t energize when the switch is turned to the prime run position. Is the solenoid 24vdc? Is one of the wires on the switch specifically for the solenoid? I have the TM5-6115-585-34 manual but it’s a little difficult for me to navigate and the diagram on top of the control panel is very faded. Thanks
Click to expand...
FYI, the solenoid doesn't retract until you crank the motor. Switching to Prim / Run doesn't engage the power to the solenoid.
 
Scoobyshep

Scoobyshep

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Ray70 said:
I'd be interested in hearing more about your WMO project when you get it going. My son recently tried making black diesel to run in some of my equipment as well as our 002 and 003 and the steam genny too. It worked ok, but he was kind of guessing at the proportions which were off a little.... pretty evident by the flames shooting out of the top of the steam genny! :eek:
Click to expand...
If you do, include me I would like to explore that possibility
 
R

Rodburner

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Won’t always be able to get the information this quick.
S1-14 25v (new batteries)
K5 no voltage with S1 in run position. I couldn’t test it but after a long crank engine started but died when releasing S1 to run position.
Jumpered TB5 8&9 and after kind of long crank engine started and kept running when switch was released to run position.
40 psi according to oil pressure gauge but there is an oil leak on the pressure switch. The loovers (tried 4 times and spell check never showed how to spell it) never opened. Didn’t use any pre-heat but after a little blue and grey smoke it cleared up.
 
Guyfang

Guyfang

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Won’t always be able to get the information this quick.
S1-14 25v (new batteries)
K5 no voltage with S1 in run position. I couldn’t test it but after a long crank engine started but died when releasing S1 to run position.
(This is almost always the S5, (LOP), Low Oil Pressure switch. To make sure, unhook one wire and hook it to the screw where the other wire is on S5. try to start and see if it will run by itself. If so, there is your problem.

Jumpered TB5 8&9 and after kind of long crank engine started and kept running when switch was released to run position.
40 psi according to oil pressure gauge but there is an oil leak on the pressure switch.
After jumping S5, will it work or not? If not, then its another safety. We can get to that if need be.

The loovers (tried 4 times and spell check never showed how to spell it) never opened.
They will never open up unless you have a very heavy load, or live in Death Valley. To test them, you need to do a GOOD load test.

Didn’t use any pre-heat but after a little blue and grey smoke it cleared up.
It has to be a cold day before I use Pre-Heat.
 
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