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Just bought an M1008 !

Jim Hunter

New member
Hello guys,

We be able to fire up the engine some days ago 8)
No funny noises and no smoke but two injectors are not working properly...
Also there is no buzzer and no lights for both wait and water in fuel lights...
Here is a picture from the batteries cables and also one from a plug that we cannot trace where it goes...
Also any source to get a glow plugs relay as well ?

Any help it will be greatly appreciated as always :mrgreen:

Thank you,
Jim
 

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Warthog

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The plug in the second picture is a diode for the "water-in-fuel" circuit. It does not plug into anything.

Now that you have had it running and know that it does work, we will work on some of the other systems.

How is the parts supply for American vehicles? Can you get everyday items like light bulbs? Fuses? Electrical connections and such?

One of the first items is to replace the rubber vacuum lines for the transmission and the rubber fuel lines.

I will work on a list of other systems to check and fix.
 

MarcusOReallyus

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Also any source to get a glow plugs relay as well ?

Hey, Jim, if you mean the big one on the firewall, it's a pretty standard relay. Rated for 24v and 80 amps, and, IIRC, it's isolated ground. Anything that meets those specs will do.

The -20P shows it on page 98. It's GM # 98226.
 

Jim Hunter

New member
As the truck runs rough and not idle we drain the old diesel fuel (from 2005!!!) we put fresh diesel and a Stanadyne diesel fuel additive and now the truck is working way more smooth and has idle as well:-D
I read some horror stories for the use of starting fluid and I think we are lucky as the guys use some starting fluid to the intake for some times to start it...
Is it safe to assume that if no damage was occured when we use starting fluid that it will not cause faster engine wear and possible damage ?
I never had experience with diesel fuel engines so please forgive my stupid questions...

How is the parts supply for American vehicles? Can you get everyday items like light bulbs? Fuses? Electrical connections and such?
Yes I can source all the above without any problem
One of the first items is to replace the rubber vacuum lines for the transmission and the rubber fuel lines.
Will do that.Where is a good source to order them please ? LMC truck carries them as well ?

Thank you all,

Jim
 

MarcusOReallyus

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One of the first items is to replace the rubber vacuum lines for the transmission and the rubber fuel lines.
Will do that.Where is a good source to order them please ? LMC truck carries them as well ?
Those are just standard rubber lines, Jim. Fuel hose will work fine. It's been a while since I replaced mine, but IIRC, there are two different sizes. Just grab a few pictures so you know what goes where, and take the old lines to the auto parts store to find replacements.
 

Warthog

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The Vacuum lines for the transmission are:
5/32" - 24" in length
7/32" - 2" in length
1/4" - 5" in length
3/8" - 2" in length

Vacuum Valve.jpgModulator.jpg

Fuel hoses are:
1/4" - return lines
3/8" - supply lines

Fuel Line Pickup.jpgFuel Filter.jpg
 

Warthog

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You will want to remove the instrument cluster cover and also the instrument cluster for cleaning.

The cover comes off from the front. Remove the screws, move the transmission shift all the way down. Pry out on the cover and remove the wiring for the Wait Light, Water-In-Fuel light and the Voltmeter. You will want to disconnect the batteries as the Voltmeter is hot with 24v.

Cover.jpg

The instrument cluster is attached with screws. Remove them. Also remove the small clamp holding the wire for the shift indicator. It just pries off.

shift indicator.jpg

The hardest part of the cluster removal is the speedometer cable. You have to reach up under the dash, find the cable and push the release clamp. It takes a while to master this.
Speedometer.jpg

After you remove the cluster, you can clean all the connections and replace light bulbs if needed. All of them are #168 except for the GEN2 and Fuel gauge lights. They are #194

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?61705-168-or-194-bulbs-in-the-instrument-cluster

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?46054-CUCV-Instrument-Cluster-Decoded

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?52821-Instrument-Cluster-Cleanup


When you are done cleaning the cluster, reinstall it but do not install the cover.
 
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Warthog

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After checking all the bulbs in the instrument cluster we will work on the charging system.

One item you will want to find is the exciter plug for GEN2.

ALt Plug1.jpg
 
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Jim Hunter

New member
Today I was try to start the truck...
It starts but does not idle...After some more tries now start for 2-3 seconds and the accel pedal looks like does not respond like when we run out of fuel...
I just add 20 liters of diesel just in case but still no luck...
I open the bleeder in the fuel filter and diesel come right away...
I have the car parked from last Friday in a bit inclined if this matter...
Also gen 1 light now does not come out when running...:-(

Jim
 

Jim Hunter

New member
I pull the top cover of the injection pump today.
As you can see there is some dirt / sludge at the bottom...
Fuel shut off valve is working but the rubber o-ring is a bit torn.
I havent test the fast idle valve yet but the valve in the last pic is dead...
What is this valve doing and where can I get a new one ? Looks like an cold idle valve as well...
Also the repair tag has a 6/91 date and a P stamped on the tag...

Many thanks guys for your great help :goodjob:

Jim
 

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Last edited:

Jim Hunter

New member
We found why it does not start :cool:
The F.S.S. valve is almost dead...
I bought a used fuel injection pump off Ebay that have a good solenoid as I am a little worried as I read two or more cases of people who has bought brand new Stanadyne F.S.S. and they dont work...
Also a new glow plug module from BMI is in order too...
As for the oil filter is there any brand I should avoid buying ?

More updates will follow

Jim
 
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