Just got a M1009! What to check/change/replace?

[AlaskanAstro]

Hi all, just purchased (well I bid back in May, found out I won in Aug, got keys for it today) a K5/ M1009 1988 out here in remote village Alaska. I checked there was oil and transmission fluid, tossed two boat batteries under the hood and she fired right up. Took the wife and dog on a quick drive through the village.

So my question: what would y'all recommend I immediately replace/change/upgrade/flush etc for a vehicle that's been sitting for a year or two in an unknown maintenance state?

My current project list is: figure out what to do about broken out rear side window and put a ball hitch on for towing boat trailer and such.

Thanks all, I'm pretty excited. (and yes, that pic is today - got our first snow of the year)

 

[WWRD99]

Awesome!! I'd say from most that get one that doesn't run you're several touchdowns ahead!
That glass is easy to find or another topper for where I am...no idea about how you get parts like that in Alaska.
LMC has glass but some companies don't ship up there. Probably pop some plywood over it until you can find that.

If it still has the box fuel filter I'd pop one on....obviously do whatever fluid changes you can do...transfer case takes dexron 3 so some tractor places still carry that and it's cheaper than the 6 plus...led headlights are really nice to have so you can see further than 20 feet.

Possibly a block heater?
I'm assuming you're gonna want to drive it in the winter and they do help a ton.
Check all the rubber hoses for cracks since that can give all kinds of running issues. Anything not work?

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[AlaskanAstro]

Awesome!! I'd say from most that get one that doesn't run you're several touchdowns ahead! That glass is easy to find or another topper for where I am...no idea about how you get parts like that in Alaska. LMC has glass but some companies don't ship up there. Probably pop some plywood over it until you can find that. If it still has the box fuel filter I'd pop one on....obviously do whatever fluid changes you can do...transfer case takes dexron 3 so some tractor places still carry that and it's cheaper than the 6 plus...led headlights are really nice to have so you can see further than 20 feet. Possibly a block heater? I'm assuming you're gonna want to drive it in the winter and they do help a ton. Check all the rubber hoses for cracks since that can give all kinds of running issues. Anything not work?

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Thanks, good thoughts. Worth replacing serpentine belt now? It has some sort of heaters, need to check if they're block or just oil pan. Someone did a great wiring job and I have a 4-gang 120V outlet block under the hood hooked to an extension cord on the bumper. Looks hilarious but great idea.

 

[WWRD99]

Thanks, good thoughts. Worth replacing serpentine belt now? It has some sort of heaters, need to check if they're block or just oil pan. Someone did a great wiring job and I have a 4-gang 120V outlet block under the hood hooked to an extension cord on the bumper. Looks hilarious but great idea. View attachment 907491

Nice! Nothing wrong with that since I bet you'll use it with heaters. Belts are what they are. Depends if they're cracked up or ok. I do keep one extra set though just in case.

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[nyoffroad]

Serp belt?? It should have V belts. Oh well, make sure you check the diff's gear oil, often overlooked. Wouldn't hurt to check the glow plugs and keep an eye on the IP, the throttle shaft seals seem to have a tendency to dry out when in storage and then start leaking. YMMV

 

[Sezzo]

Nice! Welcome to the club!

Check the harmonic balancer. The rubber probably is cracked. If it comes apart it causes a catastrophic engine failure.

Also check out the military TMs.

Greetings from Germany

 

[CARC686]

Start working on having a new/rebuilt injection pump on hand ASAP. Your IP is almost certainly 35 years old and has spent most of its life sitting.
As soon as you start driving it regularly, more likely than not, it's going to eat itself.

An unreliable IP is something you definitely do not want to have in rural Alaska. I swapped mine with a HMMWV unit for the hardened internals.
They are available new, but you will have to swap the governor cover for the 12V fuel shutoff solenoid and blade-type electrical terminals for that specific application. In any case, you can't go wrong with continuing to replace rubber bits as you go.

I'd start with the leaf spring bushings (if you're keeping the OE leafs). Take a quick peek and I bet you see light through the front/front leaves where the rubber used to be. That'll be why the steering wheel feels like a suggestion box, assuming your frame isn't cracked. I'm doing the weather stripping a little at a time.

I recommend starting with the camper shell, since it'll flood your cab with rain/melt and cause the floor pans to rot. Check your diffs, since they could have been dripping without being topped off for a decade.

 

[CUCV VZ]

The first thing I had to replace were my U-joints, just make sure you don't put the drive shaft in backwards like me. A good item to invest in would be serviceable diff covers, my bet with it being in Alaska the drain plugs are going to be stuck.

I would also second looking into a new harmonic balancer, many good videos on youtube to help.