Just joined the forum because I'm buying an 802a...

[biz]

The one im buying has under 50 hours on it and was reset in 06.

im learning a lot about these units more before i even get one so i know what im in for. I saw that someone completely tore his down because water got in from the exhaust flap. Is this common? Even tho the unit turns over and makes juice, should i expect to have to tear the engine down due to rust covering the head surface and valves and giving the cylinders a hone and new rings? are you guys buying these and just running them and just doing minor repairs and cosmetic work?

any imput would be appreciated. thanks!

 

[kloppk]

Biz,
I'm just north of you in Mass.
Sometimes the flaps get stuck open because they are bent, were removed or were torn off by accident. Once that happens rain/snow can easily get into the muffler and run down into the cylinders.
For me I picked up a 1997 with about 1,400 hrs on it. Had to do a few minor things. Add filters, coolant, oil, batteries, replaced the master switch, fixed a fuel return line leak and a coolant leak. Fired rig up after repairs and has worked great the past 2.5 years for various power outages, welding and other uses.

 

[biz]

Jeez now that you say it, the one im looking at has a green flapper and its a tan painted unit. I wonder how long the flapper was missing before it was replaced.

also where in mass? im on the line in woonsocket.

 

[kloppk]

nice where in mass? im on the line in woonsocket.

On the NH border in Pepperell.

 

[MtnSnow]

If the unit runs well and makes power I wouldn't be concerned that the flapper is green while the unit is tan.

 

[biz]

im not too worried. im still going to purchase the unit. I will probably straighten out some of the dents and touch up the paint. I will definitely hit the engine with that forest green paint i saw someone use. it came out amazing.

 

[rhurey]

Trying to buy and just run it. While having a learning experience in engine repair.

There's some gamble in the purchase, but also there's a lot of upside when things work out.

 

[biz]

ive seen a video of it running and the gauge showing good voltage output. granted its not a bank test but im just praying for a good engine and generator. ive got a couple of diesels and i do all my own work so im not too worried. I just didnt want to be stuck with a unit thats rusted on the inside that still runs but is a ticking time bomb or something i have to rebuild. from the research ive done the 802 and 804 seem to be solid generators. much more reliable than the junk at the big box stores. I already have a good sized brushless gas generator but i wanted to get a diesel setup that would last. Diesel equipment seems to always be made to a better standard.

 

[DieselAddict]

Don't buy it or commit to a price till you've seen a proper load test. Edit - it should be able to do 6.5kw resistive.

The engine parts on these things are pricy. You can easily be into $2,500 to go through the engine.

Unless they are asking like $500 it could bite you.

 

[biz]

whats the best way to do a proper load test without a load bank tester??

space heaters?

 

[rhurey]

I use water heater elements. Space heaters would work also.

 

[DieselAddict]

Space heaters are a good choice. Simple and effective. You will need to build up an outlet setup that can handle the current. Build a good setup. You'll be using it to keep the set maintained over time.

I personally use water heater elements in a bucket of water.

Be be sure the set is grounded. That is very very important for your safety.

 

[biz]

if i use 3 water heater elements to test it like in that picture, what wattage should they be?

and are you doing just a 240 single phase test?

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
Condition and location will warrant pricing considerations.

Like buying anything, personal on site inspections are really the way to go. If not, really really look over the picture of the unit. Look over what the inspection report says, or any written description about the unit.

MEP-802A 5 kw diesel unit single 120v, and 120/240 phase, and 3 phase
MEP-803A 10 kw diesel unit single 120v, and 120/240 phase, and 3 phase

MEP-804A and higher, 3 phase

All military stuff runs 24 volt. So 2 batteries is series 24v. All electrical is 24v

The base engine is a Lister-Petter design, 2 cylinder and 4 cylinder. LPW2 and LPW4, and also called Onan DN2M-1 and DN4M-1

Read thru the forums and watch and learn what some have had issues with. Sometimes it just takes a few wrench turns and your good to go.

Any unit with a 1 in the middle of the name is a 400Mhz unit. Such as a MEP-812A and MEP-813A, not much use really in the civilian world, but great for parts.

 

[rhurey]

if i use 3 water heater elements to test it like in that picture, what wattage should they be?

and are you doing just a 240 single phase test?

240 single phase. I have 2x3800W and 1x4500W. But I have a 803, not a 802. My goal was 12Kw.

 

[biz]

diesel addict said 6500. should that be what i build the load bank at? with a switch on each so i can control them and increase load one at a time?

and are you wrapping the ground around the main nut on each element?

come to think of it, i think the guy selling it mentioned he had a couple of heaters he uses to put load tests on them. i gotta see what kind of draw his setup makes before i go crazy building my own.

 

[DieselAddict]

Some of the typical values for 240v elements are 2500w, 3500, 4500, 5500. You can get 1500w 120v elements and put 2 in series. They run between $8 and about $20 each.

So for 6500w you can use a pair of 1500w elements in series paralleled with a couple 2500w elements.

To be able to create about any load I want I have one of each value 3500w, 4500w, and 5500w and 2 each of the 1500w (120v) and 2500w elements.

oh, yes, I do have switches on each element so they can be switched around quickly.

 

[Guyfang]

Space heaters, or any other restive load.

 

[Guyfang]

diesel addict said 6500. should that be what i build the load bank at? with a switch on each so i can control them and increase load one at a time?

and are you wrapping the ground around the main nut on each element?

come to think of it, i think the guy selling it mentioned he had a couple of heaters he uses to put load tests on them. i gotta see what kind of draw his setup makes before i go crazy building my own.

Now you are slowing down and thinking. That's good. Let him show you what it will do. Do get smart on the set. Read at least the -10 manual. Read the PMCS, several times. LOOK for the things listed in the PMCS, do not just take anyone's word.

 

[biz]

talked to him and he doesnt have enough to do a full 6500 watt test. so im thinking about renting a 240v electric heater for a day or 2 and using it to do the test. going to try and find one that uses the right wattage. it will be a lot cheaper than building something. might take my time and build something later on.