Just picked up an MEP-803a

[Joe Drifter]

Hey Group,

I am new to the forum. I purchased an 803 as an impulse buy from a gov auction. I am super excited about it but there is a bunch to know. It is an 06 with 92 hours and I bought it not running. I figured how bad can it be with 92 hours. LOL Well it's on a trailer so I went and grabbed it. Got it home and realized someone poked a hole in the tank and drained all the oil. So I changed the oil and emptied the tank. It was missing a fuel cap, batteries, and the starter switch. I ordered the cap and a slightly different than factory main switch. Something I searched said you could use a less expensive CHR10-C57410 vs the $300 CHR10-C57400. I guess I will loose one feature like but they said you can wire in a separate switch for I believe "pre-heat". Don't hold me to it. Anyways, I got the switch and was going to wire it in. However, I am reaching out to you all to see if anyone has done it and know where the wires go. I will document getting this thing up and going. I got this 75 gallon transfer tank for the front of the trailer too. I have no use for this thing but it is so cool! I can't wait to hear it run.

Oh does anyone know a good battery size/model to use?

Thanks in advance,
Joe

Here is a pic,

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
You have come to the right forums.

You can start here. MEP-802/803 Filters and Parts The 2nd post has quick links to a lot of stuff. A little farther is the post with quick links to the TM's which you will need.

The MEP-803A uses a group 34 or 34/78 battery. The military specs a Optima Redtop.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

All of those wires should be numbered and in the manual you will find a terminal number for thr switch. The hardest part will be figuring out how to cross over the new switch.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Ok thanks, I will start reading now. I just need to omit the wires for the cold start feature. Let me see what I can do.

Thanks everyone!

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,
I see you said it had holes poked in the tank. There might be major issues with your unit.

The hole along the skid, is the fuel drain. A A3816 well nut goes there and the fitting screws into that You will find the quick link to that in the thread. Infamous well nut, or you could go with the Ultimate well nut repair too. In that thread, farther along is a quick link to the real S-1 start switch from Electroswitch. Some folks over on the auction sites will rip you off on prices.

 

[Zed254]

Looks like you got a full tool box, too. That's a nice bonus. The open sheetmetal at fuel tank and missing S-1 is concerning...like they started cannibalizing the unit. I would read up on how to proceed when there may be water in the engine - search the SS site for details. Turn engine by hand first - that sort of thing. It looks like a pretty clean unit inside the box. Holes in tank: does it look like a probe came out of the hole or did someone take a KaBar to it?

 

[Joe Drifter]

Ok quick update. I looked at the electrical drawings on the links provided. My switch is numbers like the drawing so it is going to be so simple. If you look a the pic I posted where the back panel is ripped open that is where someone poked a hole in the bottom. Almost as if they were steeling the diesel. What is funny is it's right where the actual drain is. So I'm thinking some idiot. The motor turns over by hand at the crank perfectly.

 

[Zed254]

You may have a winner!!! Here's the S-1 I installed in my 802: same switch is used on the 803.
https://www.steelsoldiers.com/showt...2A-803A-S1-Master-Switch-Source-Electroswitch

 

[Guyfang]

Like I said in the other thread, the S1 start switch is easy. And that is the FRONT of the set that's bent up. Do you also have the diode that goes on the S1 start switch?

 

[Joe Drifter]

Hey Guyfang, I don't have a diode. What do I need to do? Can I not just connect this thing and crank it?

Thanks
Joe

 

[kloppk]

You should be able to crank and start it without the diode on S1.
I looks like it's purpose is to keep the pre-heaters warm right after doing a pre-heat and keeps them warm while cranking.

 

[87Nassaublue]

It sounds like perhaps you did do OK. I did a couple of 016's that were a mess and both of them are fine now. Just work through it one issue at at time and hopefully you'll have a sweet genset in the end.

 

[csheath]

Oh does anyone know a good battery size/model to use?

Thanks in advance,
Joe

What I found trying to use the group 34/78 in a standard lead acid battery is they hit the unused engine mount tab. Supposedly you can pull the battery off the tab with the tie down. The Optima battery may clear the tab in the indentations of it's design. I used a value power group 26 battery from Walmart which has a smaller footprint that sits flat and clears the engine tab. I run my unit for an hour or two every month and it has started without fail. It indicates a battery charge for a while after I start it but I also tap off one battery to run my diesel transfer pump to fill my tractors.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Thanks so much. I am all about the group 26 Walmart econo battery.

Thanks
Joe

 

[csheath]

My approach on the missing S1 switch would be a couple of on/off toggle switches and a couple of momentary switches if I had room to mount them. Label each switch and you should be good to go.

 

[Joe Drifter]

I haven't got it running yet but I did pick up this combo locker/75 gallon transfer tank and pump! Super excited. Do you all see anything wrong with mounting that tank there? I mean it's no closer than the internal tank.

Thanks
Joe

 

[Guyfang]

Do you plan to ever open up the door so you can check your load output terminals?

 

[Joe Drifter]

Is that the upper door or the lower ones? I can open the upper one. Perhaps I need to put it on a slide or something.

Joe

 

[Bmxenbrett]

That wouldnt leave me enought working room personaly. Bif i cant get in there easy enough the tank is to close.

 

[Light in the Dark]

He is referencing the lower left door (there are 5 terminals in there, which you connect to to send power to your home/barn/business, etc).