Just picked up an MEP-803a

[Joe Drifter]

Oh I see.

Thanks
Joe

 

[Bmxenbrett]

I would rig up some plug for the hole in the fuel tank until you have fully tested the set. No use in spending money u dont have to. After its a known good set i would look for a new fuel tank or find a sutable aux tank to use as a main tank and abandon the day tank.

 

[Guyfang]

Joe,

This doesn't look like a bad set. On the whole, the pictures look good. Take your time, fix it right. For the time being, epoxy the tank. Get it running first. As long as you know it has a hole, and that you "fixed" it, its good enough.

Do not toss the nipple out, that you removed from the side of the set. Someone was being kind to you. When you have to let the oil out, simply screw it in, stick a rubber hose on it with a hose clamp. Drain out the oil. No mess, no fuss. The set should have come with the hose and nipple anyway, just for that reason.

 

[Guyfang]

I agree, but with my time constraints I havent been able to yet (I still have my hurricane shutters up from Irma.) Once I get that time and I am ready to revisit it ill post a thread so Im not stealing this one. I have a machine shop, auto shop, heavy electrical background, etc... that means I get things working for long periods of time on duct tape and baling wire.

When you post your thread, we can work it out. And yes, there is a way to start your set, WITHOUT jumping the starter and all the goat roping you did. This procedure IS NOT in the TM. It was meant to be used as a TROUBLESHOOTING aid. NOT a permanent way to start a set. I have posted this several times before, but there is way too many threads to read with starter problems.

Here we go. This will ONLY work if you have an engine SAFETY problem. As noted before, you cant start the set with the S7 switch in the on position. But you can, do this. Before turning the S1 on, press the A2 reset button in, and HOLD it in. Then use the S1 switch to start the set normally. KEEPING the A2 reset switch in the WHOLE time. When the set is running properly, flip the S7 up, and let the A2 reset switch go. The A2 idiot light should illuminate, corresponding to the fault that is normally preventing the proper start and operation of the set.

The problem with this method is simple. Let's say your oil pressure regulator isn't working right. No oil pressure, should not let you start the set. It's a cheap fault to fix. If you run the set with a jumper wire or with the S7, you are going to be replacing the engine, NOT an oil pressure regulator. And that's the reason this procedure is not in the books.

Another for instance. I once sold a car to a young man. He drove it several days. Then the oil light came on. What does the oil light mean? Most people will say, (and they need to be beat with a stick!) that the oil is low. So he pulled the dipstick out, saw enough oil on it and went on his merry way. Shortly thereafter, the engine packed its bags and went south for the winter. So instead of buying an oil pump, he bought a motor. Big price difference.

So if you use this method to start your set, start it long enough to see what idiot light comes on, and shut it down. Determine if its the safety switch, or a REAL problem.

 

[Joe Drifter]

I don't expect to have a starting issue if I hook the switch up right. I put a meter on the new S1 switch and I think I am clear on what goes where. So no I just need to locate the wires on the genny. It just started raining so probably tomorrow.

Thanks
Joe

 

[Guyfang]

It's too simple. You cant screw it up if you pay attention.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Hey Guys,

I picked up two batteries and trying to get this thing started. I have power to the on/off safety switch. When it's pulled out both terminals have 24v (circled in blue). However, I don't have power to the section circled in red. I believe the area circled in red should be hot. Also I don't have power to the S1 switch. I check the relays terminals that I could reach and they didn't have power either. Where is the power routed after the kill safety switch?

Thanks
Joe

 

[DieselAddict]

Have you reviewed the schematic?

https://drive.google.com/open?id=0B2ucd1TGFTw_QkZLblNsRlBIcUE

 

[Daybreak]

Howdy,

MEP-8xx startup routine

 

[Guyfang]

Do you have 24 volts DC at the S17, (emergency stop switch), on pin 2?

 

[Joe Drifter]

If you mean the red emergency stop button yes and if you pull the switch out I have power to both sides.

Joe

 

[Guyfang]

What we all are trying to get you to do, is look at the schematics. If you have some experience at reading them, tell us. If not tell us. I can lead you through the troubleshooting process, but its much easier if we know if you understand what we are telling you. If you use the terminology from the schematics, then we are always on the same sheet of music. And its shorter to write, S17 then Emergency stop switch.

If you have voltage at the S17, then go to the S1. You should have 24 volts on pins 2,4,6,8. Do you?

 

[Joe Drifter]

I am somewhat able to read the schematics. I have power to S17. Nothing at S1. Looks like CB1 is where I am loosing it. I am trying to determine the location of CB1. Is it the same as the "Ground Fualt Circuit Interuper" on the panel?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[jamawieb]

CB1 is the 7 1/2 amp breaker on the back wall next to the S8 (reconnection switch that goes from 3ph to 1ph)

 

[Joe Drifter]

I will go try to locate now.

 

[Joe Drifter]

Ok I now have power going in and out of CB1. But nothing at S1 or S2.

Joe

 

[Guyfang]

Joe,

CB1-1, (the -1 is the terminal number) should have a wire connected to it, with the number 136D on it. That wire goes to S1-2. See if you have hooked up the wires right. If the wire is hot on CB1, it should be hot on S1-2. Check that. S1, terminals 2,4,6,8 should all be connected together, and all hot.

 

[Joe Drifter]

It took me a min to visualize what you wrote. Now it makes sense. I will check now. I can say this. I don't have 136D connected to my new switch so I"m sure that's it. I knew it was something simple!

Thanks
Joe

 

[Guyfang]

Switch terminal	Wire number	Wire gos to
S1-1	139C	J6-23
S1-1		CR4-(-)
S1-2	136D	CB1-1
S1-3	137N	TB6-4
S1-4	136C	P4-4
S1-5	118B	J7-8
S1-6	136B	S2-2
S1-7	140A	TB5-14
S1-7		CR4-(+)

 

[Joe Drifter]

Hey Guys,

I got it running. It started right up! I am so excited. Thanks so much. Is it possible to run on full load when not connected to an actual load? Also, I read somewhere about some mods needed to be done to this unit for longevity. Something to do with the alternator.

Thanks so much for the help!

Joe