Just replaced all glow plugs. The box is keeping 24v going to the plugs. Please help!!!

[MarkM]

Hello all,

Just finished replacing all the glow plugs and it was a true PITA. Broken tips, No room to work. After all this I tested the box. Light came on for approx 7 sec went out Heard a relay and I still had 24v going to the plugs. I had a meter hooked up to a glow plug. I have a Nartron 32598 box like the one below. Can I use the newer S3 box? Can someone point me in the right direction to fix this once and for all. Below are some pics of the busted pins. Whoever came up with using cotton to push into the bottom of the Pre cup to keep parts from getting into the motor my hat is off to you. Brilliant

Mark

 

[mgFray]

You may have power intermittently until the engine is up to temp. But ya, a constant 24V to the plugs is "bad".

The EESS boxes are interchangable, but you may need to change the temp sensor. (This is near the front of the engine, on top, in a water jacket.). Old boxes called it a 'glow plug controller', but for the new boxes it's a temp sensor.

As for the glow plugs, my current plan is once winter is over, I'm replacing them all. For $60 for the 8, there is no way I'm going through broken glow plugs and failed boxes (possibly due to that) ever again. If when I pull them they don't look warn, then I may extend it a year.. but I doubt for $60 plus a few hours I'll let it go more then a year.

 

[tgejesse]

What was your solution? I have the same…

 

[TOBASH]

Unfortunately, the solution is I need to start selling protective control boxes with button activation. I have the plans and I’ve made them. I’m waiting for the corporate papers to come through.

I’ll post a video later, however if you look at my PCB bypass posts which have been mentioned many times in the past couple of years, you will see that I have drawn the schematic of what to do other than the diode’s are drawn 180° incorrect polarity.

About four or five years ago, someone else created a post on how to entirely bypass the glow plugs without bypassing the rest of the PCB/EESS. You can search for those posts also.

 

[springer1981]

I have a EESS box that worked fine but I upgraded to the Smart Start. It has the correct temp sensor and I believe it is the latest model EESS before going to the Smart Start box. I was going to keep it for a spare but I would part with it if someone needed it for a lot less than the Smart Start box.

Here's a link to my thread from when I replaced it. https://www.steelsoldiers.com/threads/my-new-1992-m998-avenger.184818/post-2359047

 

[dhaumann69166]

I got corrosion in the connector that goes into the top of the S3 box. Everything looked fine but inside the plug it was shorting between 24v in and the glow plug wire. Put a new connector on the wiring harness and no problem after that.