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Are these the o-rings?OK, I've got the valve stems in my ebay cart. Where do I get the O-Rings and wheel half nuts?
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Are these the o-rings?OK, I've got the valve stems in my ebay cart. Where do I get the O-Rings and wheel half nuts?
I found these. Right part number, self locking:View attachment 943163
View attachment 943164
I can cross the NIIN's over to additional commercial numbers in a bit. Have to get on another computer for that.
Yeah looks like a good deal.I found these. Right part number, self locking:
Is that what FEDLOG does, or a different one?I can cross the NIIN's over to additional commercial numbers in a bit. Have to get on another computer for that.
Correct. That is a big part of what it does.Is that what FEDLOG does, or a different one?
Thanks for that. Now I've got an issue with cab tilt, I could use some advice. I backed it out of the garage today and pulled out the red pin in the cab lock manually. It was really stuck. I'll want to re-build that.you can get all the lift arch hucks with a cutoff wheel, I did![]()
The air operated pump is just spewing oil now. I did fill the upper reservoir. Right now I can't lift or lower the cab.it takes hydraulic fluid to hold it up, and at only 6" up, it should come down all by itself via gravity, unless it has somehow tripped the safety check valve in the cab cylinder base. Did it appear to bounce when it locked up? This may have been possible if you were low on fluid and pumping air right at the top end of the last lift. This would still allow you to push it over the balance point as it doesn't take that much force at that point, but the air moving to the top of the vertical cylinder would be the last to come out as you lower the cab and might cause the safety to lock as it pushes back thru the system and allows rapid passage thru the restrictors in the control valve...
Shift the control to raise and try and raise the cab a little. Sending pressure back into the cylinder base port should reset the safety check, then try to lower it again. but if there is air in the cylinder base it may simply lockup again. If this happens another option may be to pump it up slightly again to release the check, and using a wrench very carefully loosen the hose end connected to the cylinder base port till it just starts to drip fluid and leave it alone and let the cab lower very slowly by itself. the goal here is that when it gets down to the air in the cylinder it will flow out thru the loosened fitting slow enough that it does not trip the safety and continue to lower all the way and push out all the air.
once you get the cab all the way down, and get more fluid, you will want to purge that lift line. set the cab control to lower and pump the lift piston to the fully retracted/down position to get all the air out of the base end of the cylinder. With the cylinder fully retracted, disconnect the hose at the cylinder base end port, select raise on the control valve and pump until you get fluid out the hose, then reconnect the hose. repeat the process at the cab latch hose end then re-attach. Top off the reservoirs and then raise the cab completely...
If you are going to replace it all anyway, you can put about any 10wt oil in it, I like AW-32 because it is available everywhere...
Hand pump not working?The air operated pump is just spewing oil now. I did fill the upper reservoir. Right now I can't lift or lower the cab.
Hand pump is not workingHand pump not working?
Where do I get the updated stronger cab cylinder?If you're going to delete everything but the cab cylinder I would highly recommend getting the updated stronger cab cylinder for the add-on armor trucks since they are larger and you need the cab floor reinforcement kit that it comes with anyway since the cab floor is about as strong as wet tissue paper where the ram connects. Any additional weight like roof racks, etc is ill-advised. Even my truck with just the usual stuff you would carry in the cab and a HIMARS commanders hatch - already had to straighten my floor with a porta-power to get the new ram reinforcement plates installed.
Have to take precautions against too much flow and moving the cylinders too fast as that can cause the safety check valves to erroneously engage. Some outfitters delete them without considering the potential litigation they are inviting if someone should have a hydraulic line rupture and the cab comes crashing down like a guillotine.
Does it have fluid? Allen head Filler plug, outboard rear corner. They are pretty simple and quite robust, usually if they have fluid they work(trying to think if I have encountered anyone with a bad one, its usually something else)…Hand pump is not working
I have a 2007 and when I pulled my hand pump apart the seals were okay but the backing ring was in about 6 pieces and very brittle. Pump was still functional though.Does it have fluid? Allen head Filler plug, outboard rear corner. They are pretty simple and quite robust, usually if they have fluid they work(trying to think if I have encountered anyone with a bad one, its usually something else)…
quick test, select suspension raise or lower(extend/compress). since those cylinders are pinned in the retracted position, the circuit should be dead headed, and moving the hand pump lever should go to high resistance almost immediately, especially if there is no air in it… any air pockets will take a pump or two to compress…
And that reservoir seal ring is important as the reservoir must be sealed enough to pull enough vacuum to draw make-up fluid from the main AOP reservoir…I have a 2007 and when I pulled my hand pump apart the seals were okay but the backing ring was in about 6 pieces and very brittle. Pump was still functional though.
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