Ronmar
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If I know I am going to deflate, I try and throw a jack-stand under the axle…
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- Thread starter dwlindsey
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You can swap the elbow and the CTIS valve assembly without losing much air. These tires hold A LOT of it and it takes a bit for it to dump out that little tube.
OR you can do the bottle jack and complete deflate method. No one in the military does that. We just hot swap them.
OR you can do the bottle jack and complete deflate method. No one in the military does that. We just hot swap them.
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So I got the CTIS wheel valve assembly installed. The O-Ring in the elbow is obvious now, but before I understood it was there it felt as if the threads were not mating properly, like a cross thread or wrong thread pitch. Thanks to advice from the General, I got it on.
I'd be lost without the advice I'm getting here. Thanks so much!
I inflated the tire, but the wheel valve assembly is leaking. I received the rebuild kits I ordered, but in the meantime, I've placed an order for new CTIS assemblies, which are expected to arrive next week.
I left town for a trade show in Las Vegas, so the right front tire is on a jack stand and leaking slowly. It'll for sure be at zero when I return. I'll put the new wheel valve assemblies on and try again.
Before we left, I had some help, and we mounted another tire which is now ready for the CTIS wheel valve and inflation next week.
So I'll have two good tires on the front next week and 4 more new tires with 2022 or newer birth dates arriving next week as well.
I'm hoping to drive it to the scrapyard to get the 5th wheel plate off by the end of April. I'll drive it around the block a few times before then to test the brakes and get the feel of it.
I'd be lost without the advice I'm getting here. Thanks so much!
I inflated the tire, but the wheel valve assembly is leaking. I received the rebuild kits I ordered, but in the meantime, I've placed an order for new CTIS assemblies, which are expected to arrive next week.
I left town for a trade show in Las Vegas, so the right front tire is on a jack stand and leaking slowly. It'll for sure be at zero when I return. I'll put the new wheel valve assemblies on and try again.
Before we left, I had some help, and we mounted another tire which is now ready for the CTIS wheel valve and inflation next week.
So I'll have two good tires on the front next week and 4 more new tires with 2022 or newer birth dates arriving next week as well.
I'm hoping to drive it to the scrapyard to get the 5th wheel plate off by the end of April. I'll drive it around the block a few times before then to test the brakes and get the feel of it.
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You didn't purchase the fake Chinese wheel valves I hope? 
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I read that I worried the same.You didn't purchase the fake Chinese wheel valves I hope?
Learn from my mistake.
Dealing with issues due to half-assed CTIS engineering.
Replaced all my CTIS wheel valve assemblies with these: https://midwestmilitaryequipment.com/replacement-ctis-wheel-rim-valve-air-hose-assembly/ From the outside they looked like NOS units and I didn't inspect too closely. They certainly looked good, the hoses were the correct length, high...
www.steelsoldiers.com
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Purchased on Ebay and the listing said: "new old stock gov surplus GENUINE Spicer CTIS wheel valve with hoses" . The seller gets very good reviews, so I believe I've bought Spicer CTIS wheel valvesYou didn't purchase the fake Chinese wheel valves I hope?
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Ah ok. That was most likely Will M. He is a member here and on the Facebook groups. If you message him here or on Facebook he will give you a better deal because eBay doesn't get 20%.
Ya gotta ask till you get acquainted with our community.
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I'm thinking about how to air condition the cab. It gets hot here in SoCal. OEM style engine driven compressor? Or mini split for truck cabs? Or roof mount like RV? If OEM style, where do I get the cab control panel and radiator? I see a compressor kit on ebay, but I haven't found the cab interior parts or radiator.
Ronmar
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The things a metal hotbox with greenhouse windows... Most electric options you may find a little anemic for the cab, and they are a heck of a load for the alternator... Your best option is probably going to be an engine driven compressor system in the 25-30K BTU range. I haven't seen any of the A1R in cab evaporators in a while and that whole system is pretty spendy... i am going to roll my own. As I am planning a center console addition anyway, I plan on putting the evap with blower in there against the A0 heater assemblies recirc air inlet, over its own drip pan. Haven't decided on condenser location yet, down in front of rad would probably make for the lowest system volume...
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Unfortunately I don't have your fabrication skills. If you want to make a duplicate system and sell it to me . . . that would be great, otherwise I'll be in the market for parts. There's no big hurry, I won't be driving the truck seriously for quite a while. So maybe get any parts that are available now and keep them until I find the "A1R in cab evaborator"?
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I believe I've found an in cab evaporator
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Brake service . . . The GovPlanet inspection report said "brakes are weak". I've not noticed them being weak, with the little driving I've done, less than 1/2 mile. But clearly they need service. So . . . I've got the drivers side intermediate wheel off. I've caged both canisters and pulled the cage bolt nuts down until I can't turn them any more.
I can rotate the drum against the brake shoes. It isn't smooth, I hear a small grit sound, but I can rotate the drum.
But I can't get the drum off. I've applied a dead blow hammer many times, but the drum is not moving.
Suggestions? Is there a "drum puller" ?
I just spent 10 minutes or more blowing sand out of the drum. There was a truly amazing amount of sand in there, maybe 3 or more ounces. Blow, rotate, blow, rotate . . .
It's still not coming off. I can move the upper brake shoe with my fingers. The lower brake shoe doesn't move when I press on it. I can rotate the drum but it doesn't rotate as freely as I think it should, I think because there's still some contact with the lower brake shoe
I can rotate the drum against the brake shoes. It isn't smooth, I hear a small grit sound, but I can rotate the drum.
But I can't get the drum off. I've applied a dead blow hammer many times, but the drum is not moving.
Suggestions? Is there a "drum puller" ?
I just spent 10 minutes or more blowing sand out of the drum. There was a truly amazing amount of sand in there, maybe 3 or more ounces. Blow, rotate, blow, rotate . . .
It's still not coming off. I can move the upper brake shoe with my fingers. The lower brake shoe doesn't move when I press on it. I can rotate the drum but it doesn't rotate as freely as I think it should, I think because there's still some contact with the lower brake shoe
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4lb drilling Hammer to the back edge to knock it free from the shoes.
Don't tickle it. Beat it like your mother-in-law.
Don't tickle it. Beat it like your mother-in-law.
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I'm using a 4 pound dead blow hammer. I'm wacking it as hard as I can. You think a drilling hammer would be better?
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Yeah it's not a dead blow. It's steel. It's stuck on the face of the hub and when you need heavy metal to MOVE - dead blow isn't the answer unless it's one of the heavy brass head ones.... I have a Snap-On one like that. But still - drilling hammer. You want to smack the drum outward on the back edge.
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OK . . . I'm off to Harbor Freight to get a drilling hammer
OK, I now am the owner of a 5 pound drilling hammer and I have some dents in the back of the drum. 100 or so hard hits with the drilling hammer and the drum is not coming loose.
I got a fair bit more sand out from the lower shoe. The lower shoe is still not moving at all when I press on it. The upper shoe moves.
I'm tempted to hit it with the power washer to get all the sand out from between the lower shoe and drum. If I could for sure get the drum off before it rusted from the water . . . I won't do it unless cleared to do it by experts here.
OK, I now am the owner of a 5 pound drilling hammer and I have some dents in the back of the drum. 100 or so hard hits with the drilling hammer and the drum is not coming loose.
I got a fair bit more sand out from the lower shoe. The lower shoe is still not moving at all when I press on it. The upper shoe moves.
I'm tempted to hit it with the power washer to get all the sand out from between the lower shoe and drum. If I could for sure get the drum off before it rusted from the water . . . I won't do it unless cleared to do it by experts here.
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No luck so far. I'm now focused on the adjusters. I have the rear one on the top working fine. The front adjust on the bottom is frozen and is all the way in. I think that's my problem
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OK, I've got it off! Success!
It was the forward slack adjuster. It was frozen and had the lower brake shoe much too tight. I finally got it moving, backed it off, got the lower brake shoe so that I could move it a bit with my fingers and THEN the drill hammer worked! It's almost 10 PM here, so I'm taking the rest of the day off. I'll do the brake service tomorrow.
I'm learning!
It was the forward slack adjuster. It was frozen and had the lower brake shoe much too tight. I finally got it moving, backed it off, got the lower brake shoe so that I could move it a bit with my fingers and THEN the drill hammer worked! It's almost 10 PM here, so I'm taking the rest of the day off. I'll do the brake service tomorrow.
I'm learning!
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I've got both canisters off and did the rear wedges and replaced the rear canister. I'm confident that I did that correctly. The front wedges are out, but the seal on the adjuster just fell apart in my hands. I'll need to get some new seals for the brakes. What's the best place to buy then? Part numbers?
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Fleetpride or any other Meritor dealer. Part numbers are in the -24P TM