K2 Question

[cpstanley]

Have a 1993 MEP-802a that ran fine until last week it wouldn't start. I have read a lot of posts on here about this problem but none helped me. The motor won't turn over from Master Switch or Dean Crank Switch. When I try to start with master switch, dead crank, or jumping the starter all I get is a clicking sound from the K2. I replaced both the starter and the K2 with no success. Any ideas?

 

[Guyfang]

Are you SURE its K2 you are hearing?

Measure from ground to X1 on the K2. Got 24 VDC when you engage S1 to the start position? Got 24 VDC when you engage the S10 to the crank position?

Take the X1 wire off the K2. Then try and start it with the S1. Still hear the K2?

 

[cpstanley]

Thanks for the reply. which wire is the X1 and is there a diagram where I can find this information?

 

[Guyfang]

Thanks for the reply. which wire is the X1 and is there a diagram where I can find this information?

Look on the gen set door. There are wiring diagrams there. Also look in the -24 TM. All the TM's are here in the forum for you to down load.

 

[Kenny0]

You might want to start out by checking the batteries and the battery cables first. Any battery can fail at any time. If using a battery tester, test from the battery post itself, not the cable. You can also test with a voltmeter or test light. Test each battery individually. Attach or hold the leads directly to the battery posts and not on the cables. You should have 12+ volts or a bright light on the test light. While observing, try to start the generator. If the test light dims way down or goes out or the voltage drops way down the battery has failed or needs a charge. If it stays about the same the battery is good. Now check the other battery the same way. If both batteries check out okay then hook up one lead on the main battery cable lug on the starter and the other end to a good ground on the engine. You should now have 24+ volts. Try starting the engine while observing the volt meter or test light. If the light dims way down or doesn't light or volt meter drops way down then there is a bad battery cable or corroded connection. In my experience 90% of the time it is the connection on one of the positive battery posts. The other 10% of the time it is the negative connection on the battery or a connection of the battery cable somewhere. If the voltage does not drop, then do what Guy says.

 

[nextalcupfan]

I would defiantly recommend what Guyfang said about downloading the manuals and going through the troubleshooting procedures they have.

Those procedures are so through they're almost idiot proof, case in point my set wouldn't start after a maintenance. I was practically pulling my hair out trying to figure out why it wouldn't even crank, after I got the TM out and followed it I found the problem in 20 seconds. (left the deadman switch in off)

Now if it were me I would test and see if you are getting 24V to both the starter and starter solenoid.

 

[cpstanley]

Found the K2 wiring diagram in the manuals but not quite sure what I am looking at. X1 and X2 are the larger wires (I think) and A1 and A2 are the smaller ones. On my unit, on of the larger lugs has three wires and the other lug just one wire. I have attached a picture. Thanks for the feedback.

 

[Guyfang]

This is K2. Just remove X1. It is a small wire. The wire number is on this picture. I wrote A1, but meant X1. One of the wires comes from S10, wire #114C. The other wire comes from the S1 start switch circuit.

 

[cpstanley]

I have finally seen the light....let me test and I will let you know. Thanks.

 

[Guyfang]

I will be on line a few more hours.

 

[cpstanley]

I finally had a chance to quickly test the K2. The X1 had no VDC when I engaged the S1 but did have 5 volts when I engaged the S10. When the S10 was engaged, the K2 would click loudly at first and then I would hear smaller quick clicking.

 

[Guyfang]

Wire loose or broken maybe. Look at the clip I sent you. The wire from S10, is a direct line from S10-1 to X1. Check at S10-1 if you have 24 VDC, when you toggle the S10 into the Crank position. Then let the S10 go, and check at S10-2 is you have 24 VDC. If not, then cgo to CR1, and check it.

 

[cpstanley]

How do I test my starter for proper function? How do I jump it? I replaced it but don’t hear anything engaging.

 

[cpstanley]

I connected the wire with the yellow sleeve to the 24 volt input and nothing happened. Brand new starter but thinking it is bad.

 

[Kenny0]

Hook up a multimeter, one end to the + battery connection on the starter solenoid and the other end to the starter housing. You should have 24+ volts. Now jumper the terminal with the yellow sleeve to the + battery connector on the solenoid and read the volts on the meter. If the voltage drops a lot then go back to my previous post and check the batteries and cables. Always start with simple and easy things first. Could be the starter, but have to check and verify and not just assume.

 

[Guyfang]

This is how you starter is hooked, right?

 

[cpstanley]

Yes, that is how my starter is hooked up. I took it off and tested it and it is bad.

 

[kloppk]

Where did you buy the starter from? Who was the distributor?
I ask because I bought a spare to have for my 802 from DB Electrical via Amazon...

 

[cpstanley]

Where did you buy the starter from? Who was the distributor?
I ask because I bought a spare to have for my 802 from DB Electrical via Amazon...

Not sure about distributor but purchased from green mountain generators.

 

[kloppk]

The photo on the GMG site of it is exactly the same photo on Amazon so I suspect it's the same starter from DB Electrical.
Same specs listed too.
For others following the one on Amazon is half the price of the GMG.