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K2 Questions, Water in Crankcase

Iron.Horse

New member
19
24
3
Location
Frederick, Maryland
Good Evening Guys,

I have a multi part question... I am working on a 803a that requires some attention and may be a lost cause. The previous owner had it running (maybe a couple years ago) and reported that the motor ran great, unit produced power, etc. and after "6 minutes it started making a terrible noise". He apparently shut it down and believed that it had a spun bearing due to water being in the oil, and then took some parts off of it for other units. Fast forward to this week, I aquired it along with some other MEP 803s and started going over it. I put a socket and rachet on the crank and found the motor locked up solid, and no surprise, a injection pump and injector missing. Well at least I know how some of the water got in it... I put PB blaster in the cylinder and let it sit overnight and worked the motor over both directions for quite a while until I got it freed up all the way and put plenty of revolutions by hand. I drained the awful "oil" which was a LOT of water, and proceeded to put some 10-30 rotella, sea foam, and ATF in the crank case. I then threw some batteries in it, and attempted to dead crank (with the injector out of course). No power there. I did some digging, and found lots of things tampered with and missing, including the bottom 2 resistors, CR-1 and V5. I jumped CR-1 (sorry) and that gave me power at S-1 and actuated the fuel pump. I didn't think V5 has anything to do with starting, although I am honestly not exactly sure what it does... I traced voltage and ended up at K2 with 25v on the receiving side but nothing on the other terminal when the key switch was engaged to start, although it does click. I jumped the terminals with a piece of wire and the motor cranks over and sounds perfectly normal (so far with a few revolutions). I assume this is a bad K2? I had the exact same issue on another unit from this gentleman and replacing the k2 with a spare, and that fixed the starting issue with that one. I pulled the top off of the "old" one and the contacts looked clean, I assume there is no way to rebuild the bottom "relay" side? Does anyone have a source for a replacement new or used k2? I did look at the great big auction site and didn't see any. I may be doing all this work for nothing, as the motor could be bad, but my curiosity is getting the best of me and I need to hear this "terrible noise" for myself before I assume the worst. Thanks as always for your insight and wisdom, this fourm is amazing!
 

vrzff

Active member
50
141
33
Location
Mont Vernon, NH
I've been swapping out relays for cheapo Chinese ones from Amazon. They seem to work just fine and are an exact match for the plug.

Just make sure that you order the proper coil voltage, and that the blade configuration is correct for the plug. Also verify orientation of NC / C / NO contacts.

Here's an example, and theres another 20 just like it for a similar price. https://www.amazon.com/Electromagnetic-Power-Relay-Socket-Indicator/dp/B09B1MZKYQ/

I cannot comment on longevity, but have not had to re-replace any over the course of at least two years.
 

kloppk

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
2,332
4,201
113
Location
Massachusetts
You can also replace K2 with a standard 24 volt starter relay.
Something like this. You may need to change the wire lugs to fit the t1000004711.jpg
 

Iron.Horse

New member
19
24
3
Location
Frederick, Maryland
Thanks Mr. Kloppk! I eventually found the "proper" ones on the big auction site, I ran the Eaton/Cutler Hammer number and new ones are fairly expensive. They do have used ones available (for much less) with a warranty so I may go with that. The scary thing is that they seem to be used primarily on aircraft and they are selling used ones...
 

Iron.Horse

New member
19
24
3
Location
Frederick, Maryland
Ok, so got everything together and working, system primed, and she started! Sounded good, didn't run it long. Started again and it died out after surging a bit (fuel issues). Now the starter spins with the dead crank but doesn't turn the motor over Even though the gen head free spins (like it broke off the coupler to the motor?) Put a socket on the crank and it spins over complete revolutions, but feels "tighter" than it should. Any ideas where to go from here? I knew this motor was a long shot but figured I would try anyway and it's a learning opportunity for me.
 

Iron.Horse

New member
19
24
3
Location
Frederick, Maryland
Also, just out of curiosity, has anyone swapped a entire front control pannel into another unit? It seems like it's mainly just the 3 cannon plugs? If the motor ends up being bad on this unit, I could swap the front electronics into a gen that has an absolute rats nest of issues in the front control pannel but the rest of the set seems fairly clean and complete.
 
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