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keep laying rubber anywhere I go- normal?

Monster Man

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hey all, I got this problem (well, maybe not a problem), but I've noticed now that I took the rear rear axle out again after the snow subsided that it felt like my clutch was slipping. Everytime I'd start (in second), espeically while turning, like off a sidestreet, the truck has a no-go condition. I kept looking in my mirrors and finally realized it's doing burnouts everytime I start off. Uphill, downhill, flat road, twisty road, don't matter, I leave rubber. Is this a sign my tires are shot or am I just giving it too much gas? I don't want to lug it, paranoid about a hole in my engine block [:)]


The tires still have about an inch of tread and are wearing evenly, only problem is it's wearing evenly all over my driveway :lol:
 

spicergear

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NDT's? If so...look at the actual contact patch you have. A skinny-weenie (see above post) sliver of slick, inch wide rubber. You SHOULD spin everywhere you go when you think of the torque and weight trying to get moving.
 

Monster Man

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spicergear said:
NDT's? If so...look at the actual contact patch you have. A skinny-weenie (see above post) sliver of slick, inch wide rubber. You SHOULD spin everywhere you go when you think of the torque and weight trying to get moving.







oh yeah, NDT's [thumbzup] keep trying to compare these to normal tires. ANybody had any luck siping these things? I was considering taking a stab at it- it's not like these are new tires by any means
 

Recovry4x4

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It's a common problem when not running both rear drive axles. Some folks report getting stuck on parking blocks because of this. Bjorn purposly runs with the front drive flages on in case he gets into a slippery condition or like backing up on gravel. he just engages front drive to get him where he needs to be. Very common problem Lance but worth the inconvenience.
 

cranetruck

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Kenny pays attention to every little detail, doesn't he? :). Yes, when the stub axle is removed you may not even make it over a speed bump in a parking lot. That's why I keep the front hubs at the ready at all times. Notice a little slippage, just engage the front wheel drive and save yourself a bit of embarassment.

For best highway performance:
1) Remove stub axle.
2) Increase front tire pressure to 60 psi (900's), keep rears at 50 psi.

Running single 1100's, my tire pressure is 70 psi all around.

With this set-up, the front tires wear evenly and I have lost only about 2/32nd's after about 5,000 miles.
Turning radius on my deuce is 33 feet (curb-curb) when the stub axle is removed and about 35 feet when installed. It will be slightly more for dual 900's.

The image below is showing the contact area/tread of the left front tire after about 3,000 miles and it isn't much different now at 5,000.

When starting out on a cold day, the ride will be bumpy due to flat spots on the tires, which develop overnight. When leaving a truck stop in the morning the ride is bumpy for 10-15 minutes.
Depending on the loading, the tire pressures will increase several psi after only an hour or so on the road. The rear more so than than the front.

Just more tid-bits from my notes...
 

spicergear

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Somebody want to do something? Heh,heh...I've cut a lot of tires with a tire grooving tool and found MASSIVE improvements to Goodyear Custom Extra Grip, XL's, XML's...etc. What I'd try would be to cut out the center on an angle between two tread indents on the NDT. That would still leave a center piece inbetween the cuts so the tire would last BUT it would bread up that solid full center rib and actually allow the tire to have a pile of biting edges to chew down into stuff not just spin slick on it. Cool part would be you could cut one side angled one way and the othe side angled in the other way. Give a hint of foreign military directional-ish look.
 
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