Keyed ignition question

[Mogman]

I've abandoned the idea it has anything to do with the electrical load inside the switch- there isn't much 'load' for the neutral safety switch that current technology can't overcome. I think it's more an issue of switch quality and tolerance stacking- loose tolerances inside cause electrical paths that should never cross... to cross. Boom boom out go the lights.

I have a good quality (so far) keyed switch mounted to the underside of the dash below the HVAC switches. If it fails it's pretty far from the legs with the real load on them, so worst-case is the truck doesn't start for me, or it will start for anyone.

One issue is the starter solenoid when the contacts separate in the switch that huge coil in the the solenoid creates a large high voltage reverse polarity pulse (that pesky reverse EMF I am always preaching about) if the contacts do not move apart fast enough OR far enough from each other or are not made heavy enough that arc burns the contacts. EDIT, this can lead to all kinds of problems from fully/partially continuing to power things like the starter to a complete meltdown and fire.
I would certainly not use the ones found on the popular auction sites.
Much safer to use the provided steering wheel locking cable.

 

[mgFray]

I am using the original style stop-run-start switch and a Digital Guard Dawg M-24. It's a bit pricey, but so far, absolutely no complaints. The previous key switch I had failed after about 6 months of use. The "real" switch and the DGD is going on about 2 years installed, but about a 15 months of use. (Vehicle was down for 9 months..).

So if you MUST have a way to lock the ignition, that would be a better way IMHO.