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Keyed Ignition Switch Issues

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88atlas07

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First time poster, long time lurker. I finally picked up my '98 m1078 from GP and one of the first things I want to do is to do away with the push button start and integrate the start button as well as the toggle ignition to a traditional keyed ignition. I ordered an lmtv ignition switch from one of part suppliers and it comes with the traditional BATT, ACC, IGN, and STR. I have BATT and IGN hooked up and everything operates as it did with the toggle BATT switch.

The original start button has 2 wires going to it. I connected the wire with power to STR and left the other disconnected as was shown on a Youtube video of Abel. All I get is a click from the fuse panel. It doesn't crank, but if I take the power wire off and ground it with the IGN on, then the starter engages.

I'm starting to think its a faulty ignition switch as I've tried every combination. Batt and IGN are good, just cant get the starter going.

Any ideas? Thanks in advance!

Patrick
 

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Ronmar

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No, it is probably OK. To cobine power and start together on an A0, You need a switch with two separate and distinct contactors. The power switch switches DC from CB70 to power the main relay K2. The start pushbutton provides a pathway to ground to energize the start relay.

if this sw is only capable of switching one source of power to different output contacts you will have to add a relay that the start contacts on the switch can energize, and whos contacts provide the same function as the original pushbutton start sw...
 
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coachgeo

coachgeo

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when I get around to it.... I'll just add a secret switch that breaks the ground (or Pos.) to the rocker switch. Rocker won't work without hitting other switch first. or just bypass the rocker switch to the secret switch. Got an easy to install simple hidden in plain sight idea... but don't want to announce publicly. If anyone is curious just PMme.
 
8

88atlas07

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I should have researched this before going out and spending $75 on an "LMTV" ignition switch when the same result could have been achieved with a $12 ignition switch from amazon.
 
Third From Texas

Third From Texas

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88atlas07 said:
I should have researched this before going out and spending $75 on an "LMTV" ignition switch when the same result could have been achieved with a $12 ignition switch from amazon.
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It's true for much of the vehicle unless you are doing some sort of authentic period correct vehicle.

From door handles to air conditioning systems, there are civilian alternatives.
 
19Detail

19Detail

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88atlas07 said:
That makes sense, so Ill keep the rocker switch for power and just use the ignition switch to take place of the start button. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...
Just because I always think of the dumbest possible thing that I could possibly do, if you set it up that way, you could start the vehicle, remove the key and put it in your jacket, drive off without your jacket and stop the vehicle. Now you are stuck there until someone brings you the key or you disassemble the dash and hotwire the vehicle (easy enough to do, so Coachgeo's idea is also great).

Here is what I did:
LMTV Wiring 1.jpg
Doing it this way, the brake lights and turn signals are energized when you turn the key to on. I re-purposed the Ignition switch to be the headlights on switch. I also connected the 24v starter circuit to the 12v ignition circuit so it popped the breaker every time I tried to start the vehicle, but I don't like to talk about that...
 
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19Detail

19Detail

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20190717_204030.jpg

I removed the M series Light switch and replaced it with a flat piece of metal that I painted black. I also had to epoxy a notched plate behind the key switch so it would not rotate in the hole when I started it.

Also, just so I don't give the impression that I am anything other than a total hack, the truck side of the M series connector just has wires jammed into it and bunch of electrical tape around it (I tell people it is so someone can put it all back to original if they want, but deep down, I know why...)

20190504_123021.jpg
 
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88atlas07

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Springtown, Texas
19Detail said:
Just because I always think of the dumbest possible thing that I could possibly do, if you set it up that way, you could start the vehicle, remove the key and put it in your jacket, drive off without your jacket and stop the vehicle. Now you are stuck there until someone brings you the key or you disassemble the dash and hotwire the vehicle (easy enough to do, so Coachgeo's idea is also great).

Here is what I did:
View attachment 783766
Doing it this way, the brake lights and turn signals are energized when you turn the key to on. I re-purposed the Ignition switch to be the headlights on switch. I also connected the 24v starter circuit to the 12v ignition circuit so it popped the breaker every time I tried to start the vehicle, but I don't like to talk about that...
Click to expand...
Very cool idea, especially given the fact if there's a way to screw something up, Ill be the first to find it. I like the idea of wiring the turn signals and brake lights to the ignition switch, I've already forgotten a time or two and took off with no lights. Ill look into doing something similar once I take care of all the little issues this truck has....long list.
 
Phoenix77

Phoenix77

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OK, so I'm going to dust this off because I'm a bit lost.

I was able to wire a keyed ignition in place of the pushbutton start (literally, in the place where the pushbutton was), that also eliminated the rocker switch for the battery.

Now I want to dial it back since I was told independently by two (2) LMTV gurus in very clear terms to leave the rocker alone.

I ditched the wire harness plug when I wired the ignition sans rocker (saved it though). I have the battery power rocker wired correctly, including the light for it, but now I need to know which # prongs to wire my red & black keyed ignition to. The blue wire attaches to one (1) of the start button wires, which started the truck before.

Any help would be awesome; thanks!
 
19Detail

19Detail

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Phoenix77 said:
OK, so I'm going to dust this off because I'm a bit lost.

I was able to wire a keyed ignition in place of the pushbutton start (literally, in the place where the pushbutton was), that also eliminated the rocker switch for the battery.

Now I want to dial it back since I was told independently by two (2) LMTV gurus in very clear terms to leave the rocker alone.

I ditched the wire harness plug when I wired the ignition sans rocker (saved it though). I have the battery power rocker wired correctly, including the light for it, but now I need to know which # prongs to wire my red & black keyed ignition to. The blue wire attaches to one (1) of the start button wires, which started the truck before.

Any help would be awesome; thanks!
Click to expand...
Sorry, someone usually responds quickly to this kind of stuff with an answer. Since I did just exactly what you were advised not to do, I might not be the best guy to answer your question. But this is the Internet, so here goes:

I don't know why someone told you to leave the rocker switch alone. It is just a simple switch. In my case, my switch had several posts, 2 of which are energized while in the the ON and START position. I also put in a relay so the 12volt circuit energizes the 24volt starter circuit (like I said, it was popping the circuit breaker in the panel until I figured that out). I have been driving it that way for a couple years with no issues.

That being said, it doesn't really answer your question. I am afraid I didn't really understand it though. What are the black, blue and red wires you mention.

The wires in the original setup are all numbered and correspond to the wiring schematic in the TM. It is FO-1 in the 20-2. On page 13 of 34 it shows the starter connecting to relay K34 (on terminal 87) via wire labeled 1405 and to TB2-11 via wire 3007. Those numbers should be written on the wires somewhere.

Hope that helps.
 
R

Ronmar

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Third From Texas said:
Interesting.

I'd not picked up on that tidbit.

Can you or someone elaborate?
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Yea, I don’t get it either, they are just switches. Granted one applies DC voltage and the other provides a path to ground, a dual/separate contact key switch or the addition of a relay should work just fine...
 
19Detail

19Detail

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Ronmar said:
Yea, I don’t get it either, they are just switches. Granted one applies DC voltage and the other provides a path to ground, a dual/separate contact key switch or the addition of a relay should work just fine...
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I don't get it either. In the end, it is just a switch that connects 2 wires. It shouldn't matter how you do it. I just hope it isn't like me saying that I have never worn a seatbelt and I am perfectly fine, but I have never been in an accident....
 
Celticlady

Celticlady

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88atlas07 said:
That makes sense, so Ill keep the rocker switch for power and just use the ignition switch to take place of the start button. Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...
Yes. That is how mine is set up. It is more secure than push button. But anybody with some sense and some time can pull the dash and “hot wire” the starter. Your idea to use the ign switch as a power on switch is more secure. I have looked at my switch. I think its capable. I also have locking door handles. So its not high on my list.
 
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