Keyed Ignition

[TheDoubleDeuce]

Oh wow, I don't know how I missed that post! I'm sorry Clinto; I meant no disrespect. Will keep your advice in mind for the future.

 

[number9]

Nothing at all personal. Back in post #9, a Mod asked us to search some threads that already covered alot of questions about key switches. I was trying to respect his wishes and drop the thread, sorry if I ruffled any feathers. Probably should have explained myself a little better.

I got ya. I did look through a couple of those threads but didn't see the info I was looking for. I seen references to a few key switches but the pics I found of then on the web showed them to be of different diameters and lengths. I was just asking if anyone knew off the top of their head the size hole and dash space available.

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[number9]

Found exactly what I was looking for in this thread

http://www.steelsoldiers.com/deuce/5638-current-load-accessory-master-switch.html

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[Robo McDuff]

The problem with doing it the way you did is that some kids playing in the truck can leave the lights or ignition switch on and kill your batteries...I installed my ignition switch in the number 10 wire coming from the starter relay to the ignition switch ..this way when i turn the power off it shuts off the heater,head lights buzzer and starter button.. then is no draw when switch is off and no more dead batteries from people playing in the truck.All other switches stay the same with my setup .i used a heavy duty switch even though you are only cutting a small guage wire that can,t have much of a draw...

Good one. That's the way I will go then as well. Interrupt the supply at the starter already.

I will use a two-wire cable in my case though. The one wire will feed the key switch from the starter, the second wire will go back and reconnect the original master switch cable close to the starter. Needs a longer new cable, but keeps the system as original as possible and, as important, reduce work on the dash side of the wiring interupting cables or lousy connectors etc. The push button and all other switches still function as they did originally.

The key switch will also feed the new wiring for the new front and tail lights as requested by the DoT. I just will run a 7-wire cable front and back and go completely outside the existing system. Often a quicker and better way than trying to connect old and new. That way, I can easily install the new front and tail lights, tail turn lights and brake lights, and simple make the connectors for the trailer at the end of that line. ( I probably will cheat a bit and take the brake light feed from the original lights, seems simpler). The lights will have their own switches as well. We will fit it in a new small console below the orginal dashboard.

The nice part: all original lights will stay in place AND be functionally independently from the "daily running lights".

Tomorrow the raining will stop, so we will start work on it and post up some picks.

The 7-wire cable is of 1 mm-square thickness, according the experts enough for normal lights etc. Which thickness should I use for the main feed to-from the starter? Edited later: Gbooth in a post from 2006 mentioned he used 10 gauge wire. As reference, 1 mm square is 16 guage wire, which I use for the normal wiring; 10 gauge is 5 mm square.

To be sure, this is NOT specifically for anti-theft. I need the new lights, having a keyed cut-out will stop some kids and save my batteries. The main anti-theft is the old padlock-through-the-steering-wheel and padlocks on the doors. Have to make a hard-top otherwise the door locks would not be very effective either.