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Keyed Switch

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Runaway998

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Richmond,VA
I ran into an issue on my humvee and had lost all power after trying to charge the batteries. I troubleshot and even went as far as changing the smartbox. I found that the negative terminal was loose after and that corrected my issues. While researching I found that the keyed switch kills the smartbox so I didnt put the keyed switch back in. Is there any reason why a keyed switch kills the smart box? What are the best options for security. Im looking at adding a keyed fuel cut off switch.
 
C

Coug

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Where did you find that a keyed switch kills the smartbox?

If used properly it's no different than just pulling off the negative battery cable.
The only way that I could see it causing an issue with the smart box is if you turn they key off while the vehicle is still running, which can cause a spike in the electrical system.

EDIT: My mistake, for some reason I thought keyed disconnect rather than keyed switch.


For keyed start switch, it can't handle the current, and the burned up contacts can create additional load and erratic voltages. Additional load means lower voltage and higher current, which can overload circuits not designed to handle it.
 
Last edited:
Milcommoguy

Milcommoguy

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This keeps coming up over and OVER.

Biggest problem is the automotive OFF, RUN, START switches being sold to the Humv DIY er's are a bit short on quality. Contact ratings, wear, pitting, dust, dirt and just plan imported junk not suited to the demanding HumV application. Sure, plug and play AND I would say should work fine. Reported here on SS, LOTS of problems. After a few month, maybe more... won't turn on, won't start or worst yet won't shut off.

Biggest issue is the on and off to start. Do it again and again the BS contacts pit and burn. Could stick on, or never turn on. BAD BAD bad.

IMO, here's a neat way to keep the factory look and have the security to disable with or without a key and save 60 bucks. Just make sure your switch is rated for 10 - 12 Amps. This simple circuit that anybody can do is not the one doing all the switching... That's the factory switch. Insert the security switch in the 11A lead. This is an ideal location to get the job done. Hide it where ever secure. Very important the on / off action of the switch contacts are not making and breaking under load. Leaving that to the factory OEM switch.

This set up HAS nothing to do with the PCB or EESS any more that the original switch. If you do think it a problem??? just bypass the switch or one could place an LED / resistor at the "B" to ground for just a 24 volt panel lamp for... system ready, armed, launch, contact. Anything after that and it to the TM's for the fix.

Suggestion :
Keyed Switch, 24/36 Volt, 2 Terminals, 2 Position (On/Off). Keys Included Fits TAYLOR-DUNN Part Number 7112110 Or a heavy duty toggle. With the right "packard connectors" one could just plug it in.

Power to the people, CAMO

KEY SW.jpg
 
Last edited:
P

papakb

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BUY AMERICAN, not Chinesium! Look at either Grote or Cole-Hersee switches. Don't worry if the spec sheet says 14v, your not passing much current thru them.
 
Last edited:
Milcommoguy

Milcommoguy

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papakb said:
BUY AMERICAN, not Chinesium! Look at either Grote or Cole-Hersey switches. Don't worry if the spec sheet says 14v, your not passing much current thru them.
Click to expand...
Too much Halloween candy papakb ?????????
COLE-HERSEE.... They make sweet switches, Not chocolate bars, CAMO 🍭
 
JetbikeAnt

JetbikeAnt

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Elverson, PA
Hello All. I'm looking at a Truck with this Keyed switch installed. I don't like it or want it. Can it be returned to the original configuration? I thought I read you had to drill the original hole open slightly to make the Keyed switch fit. Would that be just the plate or the dash itself? Long story short can it be reversed and undetectable? Thanks in advance!
 
HoveringHMMWV

HoveringHMMWV

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I reversed mine by adding a thin washer to fill the space that had been drilled out. Now the previous modification is almost invisible and the original start switch functions properly. For security, I added the Black Dog Customs fuel cutoff keyed switch which is wired to the IP. I used a previously drilled radio cable hole near the passenger seat for the switch location.
- HoveringHMMWV
 
A

Action

Well-known member
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East Tennessee
HoveringHMMWV said:
I reversed mine by adding a thin washer to fill the space that had been drilled out. Now the previous modification is almost invisible and the original start switch functions properly. For security, I added the Black Dog Customs fuel cutoff keyed switch which is wired to the IP. I used a previously drilled radio cable hole near the passenger seat for the switch location.
- HoveringHMMWV
Click to expand...
so if you tell passengers not to touch the switch, you know it will happen.
 
Havick206

Havick206

New member
28
9
3
Location
Corvallis, MT
Milcommoguy said:
This keeps coming up over and OVER.

Biggest problem is the automotive OFF, RUN, START switches being sold to the Humv DIY er's are a bit short on quality. Contact ratings, wear, pitting, dust, dirt and just plan imported junk not suited to the demanding HumV application. Sure, plug and play AND I would say should work fine. Reported here on SS, LOTS of problems. After a few month, maybe more... won't turn on, won't start or worst yet won't shut off.

Biggest issue is the on and off to start. Do it again and again the BS contacts pit and burn. Could stick on, or never turn on. BAD BAD bad.

IMO, here's a neat way to keep the factory look and have the security to disable with or without a key and save 60 bucks. Just make sure your switch is rated for 10 - 12 Amps. This simple circuit that anybody can do is not the one doing all the switching... That's the factory switch. Insert the security switch in the 11A lead. This is an ideal location to get the job done. Hide it where ever secure. Very important the on / off action of the switch contacts are not making and breaking under load. Leaving that to the factory OEM switch.

This set up HAS nothing to do with the PCB or EESS any more that the original switch. If you do think it a problem??? just bypass the switch or one could place an LED / resistor at the "B" to ground for just a 24 volt panel lamp for... system ready, armed, launch, contact. Anything after that and it to the TM's for the fix.

Suggestion :
Keyed Switch, 24/36 Volt, 2 Terminals, 2 Position (On/Off). Keys Included Fits TAYLOR-DUNN Part Number 7112110 Or a heavy duty toggle. With the right "packard connectors" one could just plug it in.

Power to the people, CAMO

View attachment 817029
Click to expand...
Great info.

Seeing as you've done all the research on this, any thoughts on those RFID cut outs that are being sold from a vendor on here out of CA?
 
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