kicking around ideas for ac on my 1009

[richingalveston]

I am looking at the possability of a roof top hvac unit for my 1009 to be powered by a 24v to 120v inverter.

I like this inverter
[FONT=Verdana,Arial,Tahoma,Calibri,Geneva,sans-serif]https://www.sigineer.com/product/3000-watt-24-volt-to-120-240vac-dual-phase-pure-sine-inverter-charger/. It has built in ATS and 24V battery charging when using shore power.

And I am looking at the coleman cub low profile 9000 btu unit. 8 inches tall and 75 lbs.

The coleman max cooling load is 11.2 amps at 115.
The inverter is 88% efficient
thus max load at 24volts would be about (11.2 X 115)/24= 54 amps *1.12 (efficiency of inverter) for a max load on the cucv electrical system at 60 amps of 24v dc

I have one of these hvac units on my 40 ft rv and it cools the front half with no problem in 95 degree heat. It cools ok at 100+ if I cover the very large windshield. The RV is a 96 model holdiday rambler diesel pusher. I am confident it will cool a 1009 especially if the roof rack covers the entire roof and keeps the sun off the truck. It will also have tinted side and rear windows.

The rv has two basement units that I hardly ever use. I just put a fan blowing air to the back at night and just use the one roof top ac.

The roof top unit I have runs off of my 2000watt honda quiet generator as long as I switch the fridge to propane and don't run any other items.

I am building my 1009 to camp in, I sleep in the back and really like the idea of running it off my generator when camping. I can't sleep without ac, I live in Texas.

I can buy the inverter and ac unit for less than an auto hvac system and get the additional functionality of running it on generator.

anyone ever measure the available power of the cucv electrical system. I will have all led lights.

Thanks for the input
Rich




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[Sharecropper]

Rich; I’m not sure the CUCV 24 volt system can replenish amperage fast enough to keep up with how fast the Coleman will use it. Maybe it can while at highway speeds, but what about at lower RPM’s when working your way back to your campsite? I’m also not sure 8000 BTU’s will provide sufficient cooling during the hot Texas road trips. I believe if it were me, I would use the Coleman at night powered by the generator, but just not sure a converter powered by the CUCV system will provide sufficient long-term capacity while driving. Just my 2 cents.

 

[richingalveston]

The system puts up a max of 100 amps at 24volts. I am not sure at what rpm the full 100 amps is available. If I go this route I plan to put a second string of batteries in the truck so that there will be 4 deep cycle batteries. With four I wont have to worry about cranking amps.
my truck is insulated well on the floor, I have some insulation in the doors and I have insulation that will be in the bed sides. A roof rack will cover the entire roof. I am sure it will cool the truck just not sure about the power system. The generator will mount using a rear receiver hitch so I could run the generator while driving but that is not ideal.

if anyone has done any power studies on the output of the cucv electric system please let me know what info you have found.

my dual 24v aircraft lights are supposedly 450 watts each and they put a pretty good load on the alternators but work fine at idle. I can even turn on my led light bar and headlight and it has not hurt the electric system.
I am not sure what 1300 watts would do to the alts and what the start up current would do. I would think the batteries would cover the start up current spike.

just kicking this around now because I plan to start on the roof rack and battery relocation soon and If I install the AC it will have to be figured into the roof rack design.

.

 

[Barrman]

I don't know about the roof ac. I do know that unless you insulate the entire truck top and bottom it won't do any good while driving in full sun. I have a NAP in dash on my M1009. I get 28° air out of the vents that make my eye brows flap in the breeze. Being bald, that is all I get. Yet, I will still be soaking wet while driving due to the cab top, fiberglass top and floor not being insulated. Plus, no tinted windows.

Now, on Colton's M1009, RED. We insulated the heck out of his floor and side panels. I think doing that at a minimum is in your future.

 

[cucvrus]

Sounds to me that it would be easier to just buy a truck that has air conditioning. Financially and functionality it just makes more sense. Paint the new truck Camo if it makes you feel better. But A/C and sound systems were never intended in the CUCV R & D. Totally why I would do with out A/C in a CUCV. It would be a CACV. Commercial Air Conditioned Vehicle. Have a Cool Day. It is barely 75* here in Pennsylvania today.

 

[richingalveston]

my truck is already insulated probably better than a civy unit with the exception of the roof. I have two layers of interior fire wall insulation and the three layers of floor insulation. The rear bed sides have stick on insulation and they will be stuffed with about 2 inches of fiberglass insulation before installing the interior side panels. I have also lined the interior of the doors.

I plan to use the vehicle wrap style tint on the side and rear windows. I am going to have them match the color of the truck. This puts a layer of tint on the exterior of the glass and I will use a clear or very light UV type tint on the interior of the glass. If I put the roof top ac in (built into the roof rack) The ceiling of the fiberglass top will get some insulation along with some skinny duct work. The air will blow on the side glass with vents blowing forward to the front. The return air will suck air from the rear near the rear glass.
The roof rack will have a solid bottom and maybe a small bit of insulation (foam board). This will keep the sun off of the truck.
The only area left out is the ceiling of the cab and I may end up putting a headliner in if it is needed but the roof rack will cover the cab and also have a visor over the windshield.

I have one of these roof top units in use on my RV, it is only a 7500 btu not a 9000 btu and it cools the inside of the rv very well and the rv space it is cooling has 4 times the cubic footage of the cucv.

my only real concern is the electrical system.
I guess I will have to do some testing on my own. I will probably get an inverter soon, I want one in the truck for running power tools anyway and maybe I can rig it up to my existing rv AC unit to see how it works and then I can see the load on the alts and batteries before purchasing the ac unit.

IF I were to have a civy vehicle with existing ac it does me no good when I am camping in it. can't leave the truck running all night. In addition to this I cannot install the engine mounted air compressor with the ac compressor along with the 24 volt electric system.

My questions were in regard to my current situation and what I was trying to do and comments about purchasing a different vehicle are not helpful or welcome.