Knuckle boot question.....

[Jim145]

Ok gang here's the question, but first a little story that goes with it


I replaced the boots on my m35a2 during the replacement I cleaned up the knuckle area it appeared to be a mix of gear oil and lots of grease(very messy) I used new clamps, when I installed them I put them on tight but not with super human strength.I then put a tube of grease in the upper and lower fittings each side and then I had noticed a plug very small and thought ahhh maybe thats where I put 90w oil into so I did. also note that I did seal the zipper with rtv sealer.



My question is did I make the mistake in thinking gear oil goes into the plug near each outer axle end?

and do you need to use super human strength on those clamps?



because now I have a small oil leak(the 90w)comming from the inner area of both boots.



any help would be great



Thanks,





Jim

 

[jollygreen6x6]

Don't quote me on this, but I believe that a halfway grease-halfway oil goes into the boots, not 90w. As far as clamp tightness, I am not sure. Someone else is bound to pipe up.

 

[cranetruck]

If you have gear oil in the boot/steering knuckle, then the axle seal is leaking, which means taking it all apart again and replacing the seal. The axle seal keeps the gear oil in the axle housing, where it lubricates the differential.
The gear oil will wash the grease off the knuckle and rust will set in.
Don't put gear oil in the boot, just grease it....and it holds a lot, btw, 2-3 cartridges each!

 

[cranetruck]

Oh yeah, do both sides at the same time. The seals can be pushed out from the opposite side with a long skinny rod.

 

[Rattlehead]

Someone please explain to me the purpose of several pounds of grease in the knuckles. From what I see, there is no contact between the spindle and the axle housing except for the two kingpin bushings, which have their own grease zerks. While I could maybe see a coating of grease on the surfaces to prevent rust, I do not see the use of many lbs of grease.

 

[Red Neck]

Rattlehead, I too have been waiting for an answer to your question. I am not sure, but I hear there are 2 or 3 different kinds of universal type joints at the steering knuckles. I was told the best are the type that look like a typical drive shaft joint (and would imagine no external lube needed). Other types are open "fork types" without needle bearings and possibly need constant lubrication, and partial filling of the cavity. Any other explainations ??

 

[MVtrucker]

Red Neck,
My thoughts are along the lines of yours. Every front axle I pulled out of a M35A2
had the drive shaft type joints and I didn't see where lube would do much good.
Maybe someone with the right answer will come along and post.

 

[ken]

My guess is becuase the knuckle rides on the inner seal holding plate. And grease is used to prevent gualling. The older models had the ball and cup design, so mable fittings were there in place of the plugs. I just rebuilt mine about a month ago. I coated everything with boat trailer grease (my truck goes swimming).
Or mabye the grease is sopposed to work it's way into the spindle bushing also?

 

[Westech]

There are some axles out there that have CV type joints ( tulips and ball bearings) sorry about the spelling and such Im on meds AGAIN but now for my eye. S0 thats why there is the grease. I will get my book back from work and post the pics of the axles. :shocked:

 

[cranetruck]

Since the M135 series of deuces had CV joints the only way to lube that joint was to grease the whole thing, with the balls and stuff. Perhaps the design was not entirely changed when U-joints were introduced, which could be greased like any other U-joint, with a couple of zerks. Just guessing. The M37 has CV-joints...
Installing CV-joints is on my to-do list and since they can be installed without any changes except for the inner axle seals, the loads of grease will work well for them.

 

[Red Neck]

It sure makes locking hubs more attractive, then all you have to worry about is rust. (Unless you do some extensive driving in 6 whl drv)

 

[Westech]

here is the "old style" but as we know it can and will show up in anything the military ever used the axle in. I.E. if its around it will be used.

 

[rdixiemiller]

The reason the Jeep company went away from these axles was two fold.
1) They were much more expensive to produce.
2) They were not as strong.

All my earlier experiences with these joints in the old Willys Overlands were poor. They were usually badly worn, and impossible to repair. If the "Tulip" was worn, there was not much that could be done but scrap the axle. This was a problem when you could not find a new one at any price.
When in good shape, they are smoother than the U-Joint type axle.

 

[Loose Deuce]

Would those triple strength neopreme rubber Boots from www.usa6x6.com be harder to install than the regular size with out the zipper ? I know the zipper type will be easier I assume because of the zipper. What I was thinking about was the longer service of the boots.

 

[MVtrucker]

Dannell,
I went to the site and glanced, but I didn't find the boots. The advantage to the zipper is not having to remove everything (wheel, drum, brakes and backing plate) in order to install them.