Labor for Brakes

[DXTAC]

Okay here's my dilemma. The labor to install new wheel cylinders, drums, shoes, master cylinder, brake flush and PS flush comes to $575.00! That's alot of money BUT it took them 45 minutes to wrestle the wheels off alone and they still have 1 drum to go. I can only imagine how the bleeders and wheel cylinders may be to get off/loose as well as the brake lines on the MC. The parts are about $177 (I'm buying them) should I just do it?????? If I break or bend a line I pay for it, if they damage anything while working on it, they eat it!

Decisions, decisions!!

What would you do?!?!?!

Thanks,

Derek

 

[wikallen]

If they break or bend a line, you will still pay for it. Brakes are simple, no reason to pay someone else to do that work, unless you physically can not do manual labor.

 

[rlwm211]

I offer the following strictly as being my opinion and what I can look up in Mitchell on Demand for estimated times.

I just checked my book for the times involved with the work to R and R the rear brakes including wheel cylinders coupled with replacing the front rotors and calipers and install a master cylinder calls for about 7.5 hours on the HD K30 chassis. I know of few shops that will use book time on a nearly 30 year old vehicle they are not familiar with.

I do not have a time figure for the power steering system flush.

All in all, for the amount of bull work involved and the fact that you do not seem really willing to tear into the stuff yourself, I would say you are getting a pretty good deal.

I guess what matters is if you trust the shop and their work. If you do, then you would have the idea that they are doing good work and will stand by it in the long run.

I hope this is helpful...
RL

 

[319]

Is this for an M1009 or M1008/1028/1031?? HUGE difference!!

 

[Warthog]

Is this for an M1009 or M1008/1028/1031?? HUGE difference!!

He just picked up a M1009 from a private seller.

 

[Warthog]

The only item that I would be worried about is the brake lines at the rear wheel cylinders. The bleeders are being replaced and the rest shouldn't be a problem. They have already loosened the wheels for you...

I would do it myself and use the cash to replace some more parts.

I would replace the rubber brake hoses while your doing the job.

 

[davo727]

Shop estimates have a bad habit of doubling or more after they have somebodys stuff all taken apart on the rack and your stuck and they need to make their boat and rv and harley payments

 

[rlwm211]

No question that shop estimates are a can of worms. I left the industry as an information specialist and estimate writer a few years ago simply as I could not find an honest shop to work for. I am not condemning all shops, but I have a set of standards and I guess my morals are a bit better than a lot of the shops out there. I am also sure there are honest and quality shops with integrity out there, they just are not near where I live.

I misunderstood the vehicle in question. I automatically think 5/4 ton pickup when I see CUCV and I know that is a mistake. Certainly the estimate to do all that work is sort of high and I know it is not rocket science to work on that truck. As I said in my previous post this whole issue comes down to whether or not you trust the shop you are using. If you do not have implicit trust in them, well, you have a problem.

It is too bad you could not get some one from SS to help you out with the work. I have found that working with someone, whether I am the helper, or the helpee, is always a way to learn and to know more about your truck. For me, part of this hobby I enjoy is actually doing the work myself and knowing I can fix my own truck. None of the work that has been described in this post requires any really special tools or skills. Just some good practical knowledge and patience.

Sorry for the confusion...

RL

 

[jeffhuey1n]

The local shop that'll do my deuces charges $76 per hour, estimated at 12 hours to remove 10 wheels, replace all packing, seals, whatever (I provide all parts), replace brake shoes on leaking cylinder wheels and put the tires back on after greasing the bearings. Oh, and I provide the tech data as well.

No choice, I can't do it.

 

[DXTAC]

Hey All -

I truly appreciate ALL of your feedback, no BS!! I just finished a 6 hour drive home from work and had LOTS of time to think it over and I'm going to tackle it myself. I've done this type of work before and the only thing I'm worried about is getting the WC's and MC off without jacking something up. The 25 years of rust worries me! I do have one question though, when I go to NAPA do I tell them it's an 85' K5 Blazer when I order or get parts or???

Sorry 319 I forgot to mention it's a 1009!

Thanks everyone!!

Derek

 

[Bob H]

it took them 45 minutes to wrestle the wheels off alone

That's almost 2 minutes per lug nut!!!!!!!!!!!
and all I need to know about that shop.

 

[rlwm211]

Be sure to use a tubing wrench when you try to loosen the flares on the wheel cylinders. Apply a liberal dose of PB Blaster or WD40 the day before to soak in and loosen up the rust.

The good thing is that these trucks are not typically driven much in the salt and snow so they do not have the road cancer that most vehicles have that age. In most of the vehicles I have worked on including those that have been driven here in NYS in the land that sees the most salt I have ever seen on the roads in the winter and they do loosen up if you play with them.
The master cylinder should be easy.

If you have any problems come in here and hollar!!!!

RL

 

[davo727]

Good you are doing it, the 1009 is just a 1/2-3/4 ton brake setup and pretty easy. You should replace the 3 rubber brake hoses also.

If you havent done rear drum brakes before you may want to take pictures of how the springs are aranged on the shoes. also look at it before you take it apart and set the shoes in the correct orientation on theground under the brake you are working on- each rear brake has 2 different shoes- get it- the front shoe is not the same as the rear shoe on the rear brakes. Then transfer each spring to the correct shoe as you remove them.

 

[wikallen]

Flare nut wrenches are a must on old brake lines. If the lines look rusted, just replace them. Brake line is cheap, and you can buy it in several different lengths at the parts store.

I am glad to hear you are doing it yourself, you will save a lot of money.

I

 

[Warthog]

Hey All -
I do have one question though, when I go to NAPA do I tell them it's an 85' K5 Blazer when I order or get parts or???

Glad to hear you are working on it yourself.

If you are working on engine parts ask for '84 K30 parts, that will get you the "J code" non-emission engine parts. Civvy Blazers had the "C code" emissions engine.

Some of the electrical connectors changed from '84 to '85 and the CUCVs did not get the upgrades, so stay with the '84 date.

Just about everything else will work fine with the '85 date.

Just to make it easy you might just stay with the '84 date range.... of course YMMV

 

[wreckerman893]

Just my thoughts from the mechanical "School of Hard Knocks".
If you try to turn a nut and it looks like it us going to strip.....STOP......get a small propane torch and heat either
the nut or if you are threading someting out, heat the area around the stud or bold.
You do not have to get it red hot...all you want is some expansion to allow the item to break loose.
Try to turn it again but dont stript it....apply the heat again..this time spray it with some Break Free or similar
lube. The heat will suck the lube up into the threads.
Just keep doing it until it breaks loose.......parts cost money....patience is free.

 

[DXTAC]

Okay THIS post scared me a bit! I needed to be sure the MC I just bought was DOT 5 compatible and it is. This is straight from the NAPA website for the model I bought "Compatible w/ DOT Approved Silicone- Or Glycol-Based Brake Fluids". I'm gonna post all the NAPA P/N's I use for this job somewhere!

I do have one question though. When I removed the MC cover to remove the fluid, I noticed the fluid was dark and thick like maple syrup and as I removed the fluid (using an extractor) it left a scum ring of sorts near the top (see attached pic) that was like Gorilla Glue, really thick and sticky. Could this be due to someone mixing DOT 3 and 5? I was planning on bench bleeding the unit then manually bleeding at all 4 wheels, should I consider having the system put under pressure by a shop to remove any/all foreign or old/mixed fluid?

I ordered drums today and have to pick up the wheel cylinders and an extra quart of DOT 5 tomorrow from NAPA. Drums are gonna hold me up!! Saturn Surplus has drums for $38.50 each and NAPA has them for $62.49 each!! YIKES!

Thanks,

Derek

 

[Goose2448]

Just make sure you know what you are doing and have a manule at your side. And make sure you have spring tools and stuff to get it done right.