Large white smoke cloud on start up on right side. Wasnt there this summer.

[m1garand_man]

For the last couple weeks I have been noticing that my M1009 emits a fairly large cloud of white smoke from the right bank on start up. I trouble shot the glow plugs and everything is ok.

I know my valve train is worn as I blow more blue smoke in general than I did a few years ago. I think this started two winters ago when I left the 15w40 in the engine and had a few weeks of negative temp weather with out a block heater or pan heater and the engine sounded super pissed when ever I would start it up. Now I burn a quart every 400-600 miles depending on my driving style. That's down from a quart every 1000-1200 a year ago. I live in central Alaska now and ran synthetic 10w30 last winter and blew clouds of smoke when ever I was on the accelerator. After switching back to conventional 15w40 in the spring the smoking was less but the burning oil has still been a problem

The white smoke I have now is only on start up and smells of fuel and oil. and it is only coming out of the right bank. I think it has to do with oil running down the worn valve stems into the combustion chambers and collecting there until start up where it lowers the combustion temp causing incomplete fuel burn until the chamber warms up enough with in a few seconds.

I will also mention that the two heads on this engine are ones I installed myself three years ago and came off two different engines so both must have different amounts of wear on them.

Do you guys think my diagnostics are correct or am I missing something? The only way I will ever know the answer is if I don't sell the truck in the next few days and instead have the heads rebuilt later this winter.

 

[cucvrus]

I am thinking head gasket. Did you have the heads magnafluxed? That is a process where they check them for cracks. Also the heads should be checked for straight level mounting surface before installation or you are basically wasting your time doing the head gaskets. Valve seals and such can be corrected and are a wise thing to have repaired when you have the heads at the machine shop. I think you are on the right path so continue and remove the heads and get them checked out. Don't waste your time just putting another set of used heads on before getting them checked out. You never know what conditions the used heads have been subjected to in their past. It is well worth the money to do it right the first time. Good luck.

 

[m1garand_man]

When I have the heads rebuilt they will be magnafluxed and redecked not to mention springs replaced and the valve guides sleeved if needed. My next question is that while surface of the block where the head can probably warp how common of an issue is it for warping to actually happen? I would hate to have the heads redecked only to put them on a non flat surface on the block. For me pulling the engine again is not something I want to undertake not to mention the shop in town will not rebuild a 6.2 because they say they usually crack when they pull the studs for the crank bearing caps.

 

[cucvrus]

I just did my heads and rear main seal. Basically I did everything but the bottom end. I would say the block is fine. Unless you have a cracked cylinder. Only you would know if that has happened by getting it checked. But I would pull the heads and see what the machine shop finds. They will tell you if they are straight forward. My engine runs like new again. I had been nursing a blown head gasket for 3-4 years. I was OK until I seen and smelled anti freeze at the left exhaust. It was like a steam engine last winter. I fixed the head gasket and was glad after it was done. If you pull the engine you can do all the work on a garage floor. Take your time and do it right. It pays in the end. Good luck.

 

[m1garand_man]

So I have been doing some research and it will cost me just shy of $700 to do the heads myself to include having a shop rebuild the heads themselves. Its a straight forward job that I have done a few times but I am lacking the money to do it right now. I am hoping to find a fix to get the truck through the winter. I don't think its a blown head gasket or that there is a crack. (I have had a cracked head before and it would vent water vapor intermittently even at 50* temps and used coolant.) The smoking is only on start up but as I said before initially the engine will shake on start up telling me that combustion isn't happening probably because of the oil raising the flash point of the fuel air mix. In case I forgot to mention it I changed the glow plugs but it didn't help.

So what I am looking for is a quick temporary fix to get me through the next six months if possible until I have money and temps above freezing to do the work in. (I'm in Fairbanks Alaska and its about to get real cold)

Some products I have been looking at are rislone ring seal smoke repair http://rislone.com/product/ring-seal-smoke-repair/ and this Bars producs http://barsleaks.com/product/engine-repair/ I guess there is no harm in trying. What other products have you guys tried? what works and what doesn't?

one note in a few weeks I'll be switching to 10w30 again for the winter so I'm sure the smoking will get worse with the thinner oil

 

[CUCVLOVER]

My dad has used ring seal. He said it does work and can help put off a rebuild for awhile.
Also he said STP oil treatment is great stuff. http://www.stp.com/products/oil-additives/oil-treatment
He said the STP seems like 80 90 gear oil at about 35 degrees, said you sqeeze it from the bottle into the engine because just pouring takes to long.

This information comes from my dad 47 he learned from a engine builder who learned from a engine builder so..
Hope this helps