Latest Accesory for the M37

[just me]

Finally got the one accessory for my truck that I always felt it was missing. An M14 to go in the rifle mount. Now to find a couple bandoliers to hang off a corner.

Might even get the winch rebuild finished this weekend and get it back on the truck. Anyone who thinks an LU4 is expensive to buy, wait until you rebuild one! I was able to reuse the worm and Bull as they were perfect. Bearings, some bushings and Speedi-Sleeves, gaskets, u-joints, tie bars and correct wire rope and ends ran over $650. I have over 40 hours labor that I don't count in the cost as this IS my hobby. But if you were to total it all up, at my current shop rate, it would be $3,250.

 

[M813rc]

Pictures!!

Cheers

 

[MarkM]

Your M37 is listed as a 1953 model so would not the M1 Garand be the correct rifle? I'm sure the M14 looks great I am just a big fan of the Garand. I own two

Mark

 

[just me]

The M38 has a Garand. My M37 saw duty through the 60's, therefore I chose the M14 (over the M16 ) I like wood stocks. As far as pics, I have no way to post them here. My phone won't do it and I have no computer or internet at home. Don't have cable TV, either.

 

[just me]

Well, didn't get the winch assembled today, but did get a lot done. The story thus far. My truck came with an LU-4 winch when I bought it. It, like everything else on my truck has been used, abused and then left unmaintained.
I found another winch at a swap meet that was in very good condition for not much money. Removed the winch from my truck and dismantled it and found that the gears were destroyed. The bearings were exploded and the rest was just whooped.
The "new" winch had perfect gears, the seals were all dead and the seal surfaces on the ends of the drum were marginal. The bearings were reusable, but with all the work I was going to do, might as well replace them too.
The original winch had steel bearing retainers and the new winch had aluminum ones. The front brake end retainer was damaged and deformed. Also, one of the steel ones was damaged where the seal seated.
We used the welding method to remove the cups from the steel housings. Removed all the seals from all the housings. Cleaned everything. Made seal removers and replacers for all the seals. Put the damaged retainer in the 3 jaw and faced the outer surface flat. Put it in the four jaw, indicated it in and corrected the damage to the seal seat surface. Froze the cups and installed them. Installed Speedi-Sleeves where needed and installed all the seals. Pressed the bearings on the worm shaft and ran out of day.
So, now I'm sitting with everything cleaned. All the seals and bearings installed. Sitting in the assembly area under a cover.
Still need to fab or purchase the spreader bar and top spreader and paint the housings and brackets. I'll get that done tomorrow and then assembly later in the week. Should have it back on the truck before the Veterans Day Parade.
Been a fun little project, but a lot more work than I ever imagined it would be.

 

[USMC4302]

That's funny -- I bought the M-37 as an accessory for my M-14 ...

 

[just me]

Since there seems to be much vodoo and confusion in the selection of oil for the winches, I decided to research it during the course of my rebuild.
After reading all the claims and snake oil, the advocacy of greases, specialty lubes and common lubes, I went to the source for a recommendation. (PACCAR Corp. The people who make Bradon winches.)
I was hoping the lube would be something I had on hand or wouldn't have to pay two arms for. I was lucky. The lubricants they recommend for the worm drive winches are
Mobilgear600xp 460 or 680 depending on temperature
Shell Omala 460 or 680
Chevron gear compound EP460
Texaco Meropa 460

The EP and XP refer to compounds in the oils and are pressure additives and help to keep the gears alive in the extreme shear load that worm drives have.
The Mobil product is readily available, but in 5 gal pails. I didn't want to buy 5 gallons to use 2 quarts.
I researched the other oils and found out the Shell Omala is simply a name change from Shell Valvata J460! I have a few gallons of that!
In fact all the oils are rebrands of previous oils that WERE formerly known as Steam Cylinder Oil. Not much call for Steam cylinder oil in today's world, but those of us who still play with steam engines, have it around.

So, if you want the CORRECT lube in your winch that will work to spec and do no damage to the winch, you can use any of the above. Or not. It is your winch.
FROM PACCAR:
"RECOMMENDED WORM GEAR OIL
We have published the following specifications to help you determine which lubricant is best suited for your
application. For simplicity, Braden has listed one readily available product in each temperature range which
has been tested and found to meet our specifications. This is not to say that other lubricant brands would not
perform equally as well.
If the following lubricant brands are not available in your area, make certain your lubricant vendor supplies you
with oil that is equivalent to those products listed below.
Brand recommendations in tier C climate range:
MOBIL Mobilgear 600xp 460
SHELL Omala 460
CHEVRON Gear Compounds EP460
TEXACO Meropa 460
Temperature tiers
PREVAILING AMBIENT TEMPERATURE
A -20F to 20F
B 0F to 50F
C 40F to 100F
D 90F to 130+F
A. AGMA Grade 3 EP; Mobilgear 600xp 100 or equivalent
B. AGMA Grade 5 EP; Mobilgear 600xp 220 or equivalent
C. AGMA Grade 7 EP; Mobilgear 600xp 460 or equivalent
D. AGMA Grade 8 EP; Mobilgear 600xp 680 or equivalent"