LDS-465-1A Exhaust Gas Temp Concerns

[ken]

I sudjested removing the intake tube at the turbo for a quick test drive. So he could see if he had a restriction. I don't think he does. I don't think 1150deg is anything to worry about. 600 deg while crusing is about right. Your highest temps should be at low RPM and alot of throttle. At this point you will have alot of fuel and not as much airflow. This will turn exaust black and send temps up. As the temps climb the turbo will acclerate and provide more air flow. This should bring temps down as the air flow increases. Unless you have a heavy load then you should see higher temps all the way to redline under WOT.
At a piont you will start to see higher temps because the more you comperss air the hotter it gets. Having charge air too hot will send temps up also. The intake manafold cools the charge air somewhat but there is only soo much it can do at higher boost pressures. Also this is a fresh engine right? out of the can? After you get it broke in things should change.

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Wow!!! --- Lots of good info --- Thanks.

jimk's "9??AM" post was especially interesting.

ken wrote:

Also this is a fresh engine right?

Yes --- and it has a standard "D" turbo

I made another 100 mile run yeserday and didn't experience any EGT trouble. It was about ten degrees colder (down to - zero) than the day before AND --- to be fair, I wasn't able to really put my foot in it until I was on coming back home. By then I was on the Northern (downward) side of the continental divide therefore I probably wasn't pulling as hard as I was the day before.

Anyway, I couldn't get over 12 pounds of boost and/or 1,200 degrees EGT. I was inder the impression that 1,100 --- 1,150 (pre-turbo) was quickly approaching the danger zone therefore I was concerned.

The engine ran just a little below 180 degrees with the winterfront on and open and the fan off. It was kind of weird how the night before, when the weather was only 10 to 15 degrees warmer how the temp slowly climbed to 195.

There were times when I was able to put my foot in the pump and experiment with EGTs and Boost but most of the time show packed roads, wind and drifting snow dictated not running over 2,000 RPM. I only saw two cars during the 50 mile trip home. I like it like that.

Before leaving Hibbing I fueled and did a mileage check. After approximately 400 miles running time on the new engine I got 10 MPG on the last 100 miles. I think that was pretty good considering it's a new engine and it was pushing or below zero weather and I'm not running synthetics.

I'm going to do some experimenting with the air breather.

 

[m-35tom]

have you read the tm on breaking in a new engine??

 

[SasquatchSanta]

No --- but --- when we first started it up I ran it at 1,500 RPM for a little over 30 minutes.

I'm also modulating the RPMs between 1,500 & 2,500 RPM. I make a point to run it up to 2,500 in 3rd and let it decelerate down to 1,500 several times after it's warmed up.

I Hope this it the right thing to do.

 

[joec]

Don't run synthetic untill atleast u have 2500miles on it. Gives a chance for everything to seat, Rings, Bearings and such. But there isn't anything wrong with synthetic. I use in everything i own. But yes regulate rpm's in it to break in properly. I know everyone has already probally said this. Just giving you some advice that i have allready been through with. As soon as i get 1500 more miles on mine. I am going to synthetic. Better bearing life and longer interval between changes. Synthetics won't let the rings seat properly due to the anti-friction agents in it.



Oh yeah I LOVE THE TRUCK!

 

[SasquatchSanta]

Thanks joec.

I'm running Rotell T 15-40 but plan to change over to synthetic after break-in. I also think changing to synthetic in the differentials and gear boxes would probably pay for itself in this cold climate. Considering how cold it's been, I was surprised when I got 10 MPG on the first mileage test. I think synthetics would have improved on that.

The pre-lub pump linked with the oil pan heating pads removes a lot of winter's stress on the engine. It's really nice to be able to start up with pre-established oil pressure. When I checked the oil Friday it had a little over 4 hundred miles on it and was still clear. I've never seen that before in a diesel before. The two 5 micron 1970 spin on filters and remote Amsoil bypass filter are doing their job. I just hope the 1970s don't start bypassing prematurely. The differential pressure is running awfully close to 15 PSI. We'll see.

 

[alphadeltaromeo]

Good job Ernie! Glad to hear the bypass is doin' it's job for sure.