Leaking engine fuel filter

[NormB]

I mentioned this in the other thread on “MEP 802-803 filters”

The third stage filter (just before the injector “tree”) leaked. A lot.

Fast forward to sourcing new seals, cleaning out about a gallon of spilled fuel (really really), and the thing STILL leaks.

How hard is this, anyway?

There are TWO small gaskets, but the kit supplied by Wix only comes with one, plus the large flat ring for the top of the filter to the housing.

INstructions say there are TWO #3 washers. So I put the new one in the bottom, and it sits below the bottom of the bowl - no washer contact.

Reused the old one which sat about a MM proud of the bottom of the bowl and was still pliable - put everythign back together, guessed at torque (about a 1/4-20 bolt, figure 8 Ft-lbs, about hand-tight), turned to prime, fuel came out.

And yes, I used a NEW gasket for the TOP of the bowl, greased into place.

So what’s the correct gasket for the bottom?



Anyone else having this issue?

 

[Bmxenbrett]

Stop buying the wix filters! They dont come with all the needed gaskets. Get fram or baldwin. They come with 4 gaskets.

 

[NormB]

Stop buying the wix filters! They dont come with all the needed gaskets. Get fram or baldwin. They come with 4 gaskets.

I don't think so.

Note the gaskets provided do NOT include one for the base, which is where the housing is leaking.

(BTW - it wasn't leaking before I replaced the filter)



Only ONE of the larger gaskets is required; the one that comes with the WIX filter fits the recess, but WIX doesn't supply the smaller gaskets except in a kit, and then only ONE of them.

But thanks.

 

[Guyfang]

I used small "O" rings. We had a kit of "O" rings, and I simply found one about the right size. The Army only bought the Fram for this position. Came with everything.

 

[leedawg]

SO I was literally just dealing with this last week myself. I bought the napa filter like the wix one it only came with the large seal for the cup to seal to the stationary part. Where is it leaking from the bolt that runs down the middle and out the bottom of the cup? I simply went to harbor freight and purchased their Viton o-ring set for 12 bucks has a large assortment of sizes in there.

I just found two of the small ones that fit the diameter of the bolt well and put one between the bottom of the cup and the washer on the head of the bolt pretty much right where #3 is called out in the figure in the OP. I then have a spring and washer on the inside and put another oring over the bolt on top of that washer to push up against the filter and seal that part. There is a smaller diameter seal around the middle circular area where the filter fits around to seal that off. If you just simply want to get it to stop leaking and not necessarily filter you don't really need the internal seals just the cup seal and the seal where the bolt goes through the cup at the bottom.

I used the bigger orings for my aluminum well nut fix that I turned on the lathe to seal the fuel tank. Here is a link to the oring kit for the price its one of those things at harbor freight that is not to bad.

https://www.harborfreight.com/180-piece-viton-o-ring-kit-67525.html

 

[jamawieb]

There is a small o-ring type gasket on the bottom of the bowl, where the bolt head meets and then the large gasket for the bowl/head. I've had some units where someone had overtightened the bowl and mashed it or tightened it before it was in the grove (where the large gasket is located) of the head, which causes the head to be deformed. Need to look close at the head and bowl to make sure they are both round.
Also sometimes I have to slowly turn the bowl, while pushing it up to the head, until it fits into the grove. Almost like it fits one way. This is because someone has overtightened it and deformed the bowl. Just some pointers.

 

[Guyfang]

Another good hint to this problem is to just before the housing is tight, turn the housing several times. Just spin it 2-3 times, and it tends to center the o-rings. Less chance of crushing one, that is not in place correctly.

 

[Bmxenbrett]

One of the two larger baldwin gaskets does fit the top housing. Its the same as the fram kit.

 

[NormB]

Welp...

Went to ACE hardware yesterday, with parts in hand, found o-rings to fit 1/4-20 bolt, actually 6mm ID metric, about 3mm thick.

I used one for the inside of the bowl, one for the spacer between the filter and filter itself.

For OUTSIDE the bowl, I found a sink valve washer with 1/4" ID and TAPERED edges, projected about 2mm (3/32... 2mm) above bowl; nitrile, if labeling can be believed, NOT neoprene, but even if it is, swelling will only make for a tighter fit.

Torqued everythign down last night (62 inch-lbs, as I used a new, stainless bolt, greased), ran prime only, no leaks. went out this AM, torqued again, ran genset for about an hour, mostly at 100% load, but went higher. Not sure my neighbors were happy, as a lot of carbon came out, finally couldn't see ANY haze from exhaust, shut 'er down.

Gave it a good test of running two 4800 watt 240v heaters (backed down the voltage so the 30A breaker wouldn't open), two 1500 watt hair dryers, a 1500 watt space heater and the thing ran like a champ.

I'd posted elsewhere (I couldn't find) about running extension cords from the genset.

Added an inline 50 micron pre-prefilter just for fun, it's already caught some stuff that would've made it downstream otherwise.

Next, change out fuel gauge, move set out back, bring 802a inside for winter project (mostly sound damping).