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Leaking fluids!!! need help!!

67
0
6
Location
Landenberg, Pa
Hi everyone. I am new here but looking for some help. I have a 68 m35a2 and i have had a leaking fluid on my front rear axle on the passenger side. I believe it is brake fluid since i have to top it off every 4 months or so. I am almost ready to tear into it but i want to make sure that i have everything. I already got new shoes and am working on wheel cylinders. is there two on the back also or just one?? also I would like to get new seals while I am at it so what should I look for in part numbers and quantities there. Thanks for any and all info.
 

FreightTrain

Banned
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Gadsden,Al
Well,if your going to do seals and everything you might as well do both sides.You will need 2 axle tube seals(only used on the front axle) and 2 inner seals.A small bucket of GAA or Equivilent grease(standard Yellow bearing Grease),a 8 foot peice of 1" pipe to knock out the inner axle tube seals,Big Hammer,one wheel cylinder per side(only one Wheel Cylinder per wheel front or rear),plenty of rags and cleaner,Big freaking Jack stands or I like to use Railroad ties cut down into 18-24" sections,Some Smurf snot(RTV) to reseal the Hub drive flange,and if you get down and dirty and plan every move you can do this job in a day Easy.Just jack the truck up and put the cribbing/stands under it.Remove the wheels(Make sure you break them loose before jacking up the truck),Not pull the drive flange in the center of the drum.Remove the outter nut behind it,then the tabbed lock washer,now the inner,Pull the drum out about an inch and push it back,Pull the outter bearing.Now pull the drum entirely off and be careful NOT DO DROP IT ON YOUR FOOT!!!To get to the seals you gotta remove the brake shoe spring on top to get to all the bolts holding the brake backing plate and spindle to the knuckle.Remove them and save the star washer(Good idea to just get new ones,They are cheap).Pull the brake backing plate off and hang it on the frame with a piece of wire.Get a rubber hammer and give the spindle a few good love taps and it should pull right off.Inside you will see the most ungodly smelling goo which will be old grease and axle oil mixed.With the spindle off you can grab the axle and give it a yank.It will come right out.Now repeat for the other side.Once everything is apart,take the 8 foot pipe and run it though one side though the center section and feel for the seal and retainer.Once your on it hit the pipe a couple HARD hits and the retainer should just pop out.Go to the other side(just push the pipe in and grab the other end on teh other side and repeat.Knock the old seal outta the retainer and use a big socket to tap the new seal into both holders.Clean up the knuckle area of all old greaseNow use a large diameter peice of pipe or other object slightly smaller than the OD of the retainer to knock it back into the axle housing.Now clean the axles up real good and apply a good amount of grease to the U joint area and a thin coating of grease to the knuckle area.Slide the axle back in.Take the spindles and pry the old seal off and use a peice of pipe just larger than teh ID of the seal(I got lucky and had a peice of really big Conduit I got out of the scrap hopper at work that did both the retainers and the spindle seals) and drive the new seal onto the step.You might have to use a flat nose punch or screwdriver to finish knocking it all the way on.Now reinstall the spindle,the backing plate,the big round thingy and all the star washers and nuts.Be careful,The studs are soft and can break easy or strip.Now you can remove the bad wheel cylinder or Cylinders.Just remove the big Banjo bolt on the back and some how keep it elevated or all the brake fluid will drain out(EXPENSIVE brake fluid!).Pull the 2 bolts and push one op rod in enough to clear the brake shoe.Reinstall the new cylinder if your brake shoes look good........ok,my fingers are numb.someone else take over from here.
 

WillWagner

The Person You Were Warned About As A Child
Super Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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Gee FT, sounds like you've done that once or twice. I like the part about not dropping it on your foot :lol: I take it, that's from experience :wink: Just for S&G, what size is the 8 pt nut on the spindle?
 

OPCOM

Moderator
Steel Soldiers Supporter
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48
Location
Dallas, Texas
if the fluid is on top of the axle, could it be from the slobber tube, or have I misread? When I first bought mine and drove it 1100 miles home, I stopped to check things and found a mess there. many people extend the tube down past the axle and let the road draft take away the fumes and little drops of oil.
 

FreightTrain

Banned
2,730
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Location
Gadsden,Al
oh wait.Re-Reading....you said Front Rear Axle....Duhhhh.Middle axle.If it is wet back there it has to be a bad brake line since if it is a brake cylinder it will be on the wheel and back side of the tire.The rears are much much easier.....except each stud has 2 nuts.Take a 4x4 and drive the inner tire up on it on both sides.Remove the lug nuts and pull the outter wheel off.Now break loose the inner lug nuts and jack the truck up and put it on stands or Cribbing(I like the Cribbing best).once the wheels are off,unbolt the axle shaft flange and pull the axles.Remove the outter nut,lock washer,inner nut,outter seal,and pull the drum out an inch and push back.Remove the bearing,now pull all the way off.Pry the inner seal off the spindle.If you have to pull the wheel cylinder,pull the spring off the shoes,spread the shoes,and push in one of the cyl rods,unbolt the line and the wheel cylinder and pull it off.Haven't had to remove any shoes so someone will have to chime in on the how to there.install the new wheel cylinder(make sure you keep up with the old copper washers since new ones usually don't have them).Fight and cuss that stupid spring(if you don't have a big rig tool for this....I rednecked it with all the flat objects I could find.Wedged them in the spring coils till it was long enough to get back on the shoes) back into place.Drive the new inner seal onto the spindle.Clean all the old grease out of the bearings and the hub.Repack and coat the inside of the hub with grease(just enough to coat it not glop it).Push The bearing back onto the spindle,now the drum(Hernia time!!!).Slide the outter bearing on.Clean the Key slot on top of the spindle.Put a bead of smurf snot in it and push the outter seal on.Now add some more smurf snot in the outter part of the key way(the seal will clean it out pretty good).Screw the nut on and turn the drum.When it stops spinning easily back off one flat and install the lock washer and outter nut.Slobber the hub end with smurf snot going around the bolt holes and reinstall the axle.....you can take it from here.....
 

houdel

Active member
1,563
10
38
Location
Chase, MI
Re: RE: Leaking fluids!!! need help!!

FreightTrain said:
3" if I remember correctly.
Correct, 3" and octagonal (8 sided), not hex (6 sided like most bolts/nuts).

Part numbers: OTC1903 or KDS2445. Your local parts store should be able to order either. The OTC socket is usually cheaper, a little cruder design but works very well despite its looks.
 

m-35tom

Well-known member
Supporting Vendor
3,022
223
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Location
eldersburg maryland
RE: Re: RE: Leaking fluids!!! need help!!

it could be the banjo bolt is just not tight enough....................... half of mine leaked even though everything was new and i tightened them down, i had to make them real tight.
 
67
0
6
Location
Landenberg, Pa
I would like to thank everyone for the much useful info. So is there an inner seal on the rear axles or not?? and I will only need one wheel cylinder for each side. that is some good news. I think it would be a good idea to replace everything while it is apart so i will need...

wheel cylinder (2)
outer seal (2) anyone have part numbers for them???
brake shoes (4 total)

Anything else i am missing. I am only doin the rear axles for now. not messing with the front. Thanks again.
 

acetomatoco

New member
2,198
7
0
You better have the inner seal..inner hub seal that is...not inner axle seal....for each one you do... all 6 wheel cylinders on the M35 series are the same...all 6 inner hub seals are the same, 4 rear outer axle seals are the same and do not forget the little cork dingus which seals the keyway...and be sure it is brake fluid leaking before you start pulling stuff apart and not the output shaft seal on the double reduction unit ....The procedures are outlined in detail in the manuals for your truck
 

houdel

Active member
1,563
10
38
Location
Chase, MI
Yes, there is an inner axle seal.You will also want a set of gaskets that seal the axle shaft flange to the hub, the cork seal or silicon sealant for the spindle keyway, and maybe even a spare locking washer or two for the axle nuts in event you break the locking ears off of yours. Many of the Deuce parts have civilian replacement parts. Check out the Parts Cross Reference list for replacement part numbers:
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/index.php?module=pagesetter&tid=10

For the parts not in the table, try a search. This subject has been covered many times, I'm sure you can find what you need with a little effort. Or, you could just call Saturn Surplus, Memphis Equipment, Ted's Trucks etc. and order what you need. They deal in parts specifically for big MVs so they will know what you need. Also, the following pics show the parts in exploded view and a parts listing. Hope this helps.
 

Attachments

devilman96

New member
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Location
Boca Raton, FL
outer seal (2) anyone have part numbers for them???
If it helps all of the parts on my site are listed by Mil part numbers (where they apply)... and all of my belts and filters are listed by common Napa numbers. Feel free to use it for reference if need be.
 

FreightTrain

Banned
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Location
Gadsden,Al
Yea,I was going to say just go over to OD Iron and order the new parts.7061238 Inner seal $9.56, 7521649 outter seal $8.93,1229G969 keyed washer(hopefully they are the correct ones.See a lot of Civilian ones that work but are much much thinner and require filing of the key tap to fit) $9.34.
 

devilman96

New member
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17
0
Location
Boca Raton, FL
They are the correct washers but I know what you mean. . . I work really hard at making sure things are the correct fitting parts because I wouldn't want crappy fitting parts on my truck ether.
 

littlebob

New member
1,548
26
0
Location
Baton Rouge LA
After I get my Deuce bodywork painted and put back on I want to check all of my wheels. Its an old truck, so I want to replace everythimg I need to. I have already purchased a new M/C, power assist unit and all of the wheel cylinders. I know I still want to purchase new rubber lines where they connect from the frame to the axle and in the front by the steering knuckles. I hope to be able to save some of the shoes, since it had a Depot rebuild and doesn't have that many hours on it since then. Anybody know how thorough a rebuild is? I figure I will do an axle at a time and would love someone to post a parts list to
complete one axle if everything is replaced. I saw Houdels pictures and couldn't make them out. I apologize for asking for the info I could find in the TM's, but the info other members give is much easier to interpet than them. Thanks to everyone for there input
littlebob
 

Bill W

Well-known member
1,985
45
48
Location
Brooks,Ga
FT
Thanks for the great info., I printed it and put it in my "Need to Know" file. I have the manuals but nothing beats info from hands on experience ( ACE should know that by now)
 
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