• Steel Soldiers now has a few new forums, read more about it at: New Munitions Forums!

  • Microsoft MSN, Live, Hotmail, Outlook email users may not be receiving emails. We are working to resolve this issue. Please add support@steelsoldiers.com to your trusted contacts.

Leaking Fuel Nozzle

Akicita

New member
296
3
0
Location
Eastern Pennsylvania
I saw smoke come up from under the hood of my Whistler when I stopped this morning. Fuel is leaking right behind the turbo.

I did the obvious and checked the tightness of the two fuel lines with a wrench. They look and feel tight but I saw some tiny air bubbles rise up inside the plastic fuel return tube.

Next, I tried to find where exactly the fuel is coming from, turned the engine back on and saw drips coming off the fuel nozzle (part No. 27 on page 3-67). In the diagram on page 3-65 in the technical (20) manual, that is part No. 19 and in the one on page 3-67 the same part is No. 27.

Before I start “screwing around” on parts I have never taken apart and make things worse, I want to know what you experts think.

Will replacing those tiny filters (part No. 29 on page 3-67) fix the problem, or should I do more? I am not a mechanic as you must have guessed by now.

Are those nozzles prone to fail? Should I replace the whole thing (assuming I can get one)?

Attached are several photos I took when I got home this afternoon.
 

Attachments

rustystud

Well-known member
9,298
3,074
113
Location
Woodinville, Washington
I saw smoke come up from under the hood of my Whistler when I stopped this morning. Fuel is leaking right behind the turbo.

I did the obvious and checked the tightness of the two fuel lines with a wrench. They look and feel tight but I saw some tiny air bubbles rise up inside the plastic fuel return tube.

Next, I tried to find where exactly the fuel is coming from, turned the engine back on and saw drips coming off the fuel nozzle (part No. 27 on page 3-67). In the diagram on page 3-65 in the technical (20) manual, that is part No. 19 and in the one on page 3-67 the same part is No. 27.

Before I start “screwing around” on parts I have never taken apart and make things worse, I want to know what you experts think.

Will replacing those tiny filters (part No. 29 on page 3-67) fix the problem, or should I do more? I am not a mechanic as you must have guessed by now.

Are those nozzles prone to fail? Should I replace the whole thing (assuming I can get one)?

Attached are several photos I took when I got home this afternoon.
There really is no reason to keep the "Manifold Heater" on your deuce unless you live in Alaska. So just eliminate it. There are plenty of threads explaining how to do this.
 

whatadeuce

Active member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
959
38
28
Location
Loxahatchee, Florida
Gentlemen, I respectfully beg to disagree. Let us honor our hobby by maintaining the originality of our machines. Beware the temptations of "easy fixes", lest we fall prey to the indignities of dishonoring our machines.....
 

tommys2patrick

Well-known member
706
302
63
Location
Livermore, Colorado
I agree with keeping it as original as possible. However, safety is the most important consideration when operating it or even working around this 13000 pound big green toy that I love. this particular part seems to be prone to leaking. I have the same problem and have deadlined my truck till it is fixed reliably. If I can't repair the nozzle I will have to plug it as well. I will try and repair it first. For me, that was one of the main reasons I bought it in the first place. I like to tinker with and maintain such things. If it was a daily driver or work truck I would look at it differently. As the Original Poster ( OP) is not a mechanic, the recommendation that this be plugged should be well considered. Heck, just plugging the lines will take some mechanical aptitude and support from the forum and its members. Best of luck with your project!! This will not be your last thing to give you concern or test your mechanical abilities. Keep smiling and learning!
 

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
go see post 57 ine here
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128870-Intake-flame-heater-delete/page2

The flame heater/manifold heater.
One can shut it off, plug it off, maintain it, test it, and replace it with information supplied in
TM-9-2320-361-20 3-30 to 3-31 and in TM 9-2320-361-34 5-15 and other places.

If anyone wants to come up with the exact fittings valves and tools to just install a 1/8" or 1/4 valve at the supply end that would be helpful to the OP or a mechanic He may hire.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
27,786
757
113
Location
Cincy Ohio
Gentlemen, I respectfully beg to disagree. Let us honor our hobby by maintaining the originality of our machines. Beware the temptations of "easy fixes", lest we fall prey to the indignities of dishonoring our machines.....
Its a fire hazard and not needed. If he wants to mess with it, I completely understand, but not all trucks came with the system, so he can still be "stock".
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Actually, even the military started removing these systems from trucks that were equipped with them, and plugging the holes in the intake elbow. Remove it and plug it. I just removed another one yesterday.
 

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
... Attached are several photos I took when I got home this afternoon.
Akicita...

Thanks for posting such clear... and clearly labeled pics!
It really helps folks like myself... who are involved in the learning process. [thumbzup]
 

Jeepsinker

Well-known member
5,399
457
83
Location
Dry Creek, Louisiana
Garrett,
What size was the plug? And what did you do at the return line?
Honestly, I don't remember what size the plugs are. I know they are oil drain plugs you can get at Napa. For the return line, I just eliminated the three way fitting between #3 and 4 injector and ran one line from #3 to #4. I replaced all of the plastic lines on the truck at the same time. On this truck, I just left the nozzle and ignitor in place to act as plugs until I can go and get the proper ones.
 

Akicita

New member
296
3
0
Location
Eastern Pennsylvania
Akicita...

Thanks for posting such clear... and clearly labeled pics!
It really helps folks like myself... who are involved in the learning process. [thumbzup]
You're welcome, AZK9. I'm learning as I go along, too. Every time something goes wrong I try to figure it out but since I have little mechanical experience with engines it usually takes me more time to research than it takes someone with experience to actually do the job. Luckily, my Deuce has held up pretty well so far.
 

Akicita

New member
296
3
0
Location
Eastern Pennsylvania
All,
Thanks for your many replies. I appreciate the feedback from y'all.
From what I gather, removing parts and plugging things up may be just as challenging as replacing the nozzle with something I fabricate, and I wouldn't be more comfortable worrying that my plugs pop off than I would be with the parts that have gone bad. So, I'll check if I can get replacement parts at a reasonable price and take it from there.
As always, being a member of this group is a blessing. Even when opinions vary I learn something.
Keep it up!
 

Attachments

frank8003

In Memorial
In Memorial
6,426
4,985
113
Location
Ft. Lauderdale, Florida
So far these are the only metric size threads found on a multifuel M35A2?

This is from
http://www.steelsoldiers.com/showthread.php?128870-Intake-flame-heater-delete/page2

post #57

I found that the cheapo metric M20 plug is cast aluminum (used as oil drain plug for cars). So, I drilled a hole right through it with an 11/32 drill and tapped it with an 1/8-27 NPT tap. That fits the ether injector perfectly. That way, I did not have to drill/tap the intake elbow and did not have to wait to mail order reducer bushings.


frank8003, yes, if all you want to do is completely remove the flame heater, you need three plugs (M18, M20 and the NPT plug, i think 1/4, on the IP).
If you want to install an ether start kit, you need to install the ether nozzle in the intake and the ether kit's thermostat into the truck's thermostat housing.

eagle, thanks for the suggestion of teeing the ether nozzle and the boost gauge off the same T fitting. I thought about it but decided against it. Good to know that it worked for you, though.
 
Last edited:

AZK9

Active member
1,083
6
38
Location
PRC, AZ
... I'm learning as I go along, too. ...
I'm right there with you! It might be a bit more of a 'struggle' for folks in our situation, but
I am finding that where there's a will... there's a way.

The more I work on my deuce, the better I'm getting at working-on-my-deuce! :wink:
 
Top
AdBlock Detected

We get it, advertisements are annoying!

Sure, ad-blocking software does a great job at blocking ads, but it also blocks useful features of our website like our supporting vendors. Their ads help keep Steel Soldiers going. Please consider disabling your ad blockers for the site. Thanks!

I've Disabled AdBlock
No Thanks