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leaking IP

Horst

Member
54
12
8
Location
Munich, Germany
all right, it is no longer leaking, but it is also no longer running. I wasted hours today on this as a combination of not knowing anything about deuces and obviously previously substandard work on this truck. Anyway, here is my status and problems.
After installing the new o-rings, the truck would not start at all. I was unsure if I did reassemble correctly with the red tooth at the right position and thought I might have moved it by one tooth. So I removed everything again and reinstalled the head with the red tooth moved by one tooth to the right. Again nothing. So I removed all the injection lines again and cranked. No fuel at all. Removed the head again for the third time and looked into the pump. The plunger button, normally attached to the head, was down there together with a partially broken clamp, the one which normally holds the plunger button to the plunger. I also found a piece of shiny broken thin metal, I have no idea where that is coming from.
Apart from the obvious need for this metal clamp, I have now totally ****ed-up the timing.
There are obviously three timing indicators, three marks on the pulley in front of the engine, the mark under that timing cover on the IP and this red tooth on the head. How do I need to align all this to get the right timing?
Last question, the shut off block (the one sliding up and down the plunger and move by the fuel control unit) has a dimple on one side, which way does it go? I read Kenny's post on this (rebuilding HH) and the problem is mentioned there but not the solution.
 
Last edited:

RichardR

Member
96
3
8
Location
Austin, TX
Horst,

I can address your last question about the dimple on the side of the shut off block (called the plunger sleeve by Bosch) and shown in Fig. 3-102 of TM9-2910-226-34. You ask "which way does the dimple go," because the HH can be assembled with the dimple either up or down (toward the top or the bottom of the HH).

I do not believe the answer is in the TM because, apparently, the TM doesn't expect the HH to be dissembled, but rather replaced as a unit. However, the HH and related parts are very similar to the IP used on the MEP-002A and MEP-003A generators.

In one of the manuals for the generator IP, it says that the dimple goes toward the bottom of the HH. See Fig. 6A in the attached manual. It's all rather confusing because the definition of "up" and "down" changes with whether the HH is right side up or inverted. Read it carefully and I believe you will come to the conclusion that the dimple should face down, toward the plunger button end of the plunger.

Hope this isn't just adding to the confusion because there is already enough of that. Then again, it may not make any significant difference which way the dimple faces. It looks to me like it would work either way.

Good luck and thanks for posting the details of a repair most of us are too intimidated to tackle.

Richard
 

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treeguy

New member
605
3
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Location
Fort One Bay - Cape Cod, MA
Off the top of my head, I don't know the procedure exactly, but a friend of mine had explaned it to me once. Don't freak out, you should be able to get it. It goes something like this. On the front of the engine is a cover plate opposite the IP where a theoretical hydraulic pump would mount. Remove the cover and you will see the gear from the engine that drives the gear on the IP. There should be a dot stamped into each one. The engine needs to be turned to get the dots to line up with eachother. Now in this position you need to remove a small rectangle cover on the IP to look for another marker. This is where I get fuzzy. I think the cover is in the area between the HH and the FDC. There should be a gear inside of there with a red or white tooth. This nees to be lined up with something else, but I can't remember what. I hope someone can take it from here. Sorry I don't remember the rest.

I think that you may have over thought the truck not starting problem except for the fact that you found broken metal inside the pump. Ouch! Before you try to start the truck when you get the repairs done and the timing done, turn on the main truck power to get the in tank fuel pump running. Let it run while you turn/open the bleeder screw/plug/nut on top of the double fuel filter housing. This is what Heavysteven was showing you earlier. After this the truck should fire up. Good luck.
 

gimpyrobb

dumpsterlandingfromorbit!
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No offense guys, but if you don't know the answer, its best not to post up.

Horst, if all you have done is played with the HH, just line up the correct mark on the harmonic balancer with the tooth. Next on the IP, just in front(toward the radiator) there is a small plate with 4 bolts. Open that up, it is the advance indicator. There is a disk that should spin and have a scribe on it. That lines up with the little pointer. If you are on the compression stroke(which is what you want) the rocker arm on the 1st piston should be loose, indicating the valve is closed. That is the IP timed to the engine.

Now to install the HH, you turn the motor a tad more. In the hole where the HH goes you will see the gear that turns the HH. It has a washer on top of it to keep the HH in place. As you tunr the motor over, a slight arc will be missing in that washer. The missing arc will allow the HH to go in the IP. There is and arrow inside the IP. You want that arrow to line up with the VALLEY just before the scribed tooth of the IP.

Put everything back together, go drive truck.

Let me know if I need to clarify things. I will be drivinf a lot tomorrow, have patience with answering.
 

Horst

Member
54
12
8
Location
Munich, Germany
gimpyrobb,

Thanks for the reply. Yes, most of it I can understand. I am travelling now on the west coast and will only be back in 2 weeks to look at the truck. I found somebody today which will most likely send me that clamp holding the plunger button. I believe I will need a little more help then still and will bump up the thread again.
 
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