Leaking MEP-002

[Armada]

Hey guys. I've got a fuel line on my mep-002 that needs replacing (see pic).
It's the short reinforced flexible line that connects to the injection pump. It is quite stiff so I'm assuming the rubber is dried out and cracked. Doesn't seem to be getting fuel to the engine since it won't start and almost no white smoke when cranking it over, so I'm thinking the hose i.d. shed a piece of dried rubber and is plugging the inj. pump? Fuel shut-off solenoid is working. Fuel pumps are working and fuel is making it up to the inj. pump since that's where it's leaking. Leak doesn't seem bad enough to keep it from starting though.
Anyways, does anyone have a 'parts' generator that has the hose I need on it? If not, who might carry one?
On another note, here are some pics of the 'rollers' I added so I could move it around in the garage. They work great.
Also a pic of the extras that came with it, a ground rod and auxilary fuel line.
And the picture of the label was also on the genset. The date reads 'SEP 05'. Is this a rebuild tag? Was it rebuilt in Europe? It only shows 1.5 hours on the clock. The filters look new and so does the crankcase oil.
Thanks for the help.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Check the lever that the fuel shut-off solenoid pushes against,which I think is also the throttle lever.Mine sticks closed and I have to move the lever as I am cranking it for it to start.It could have air trapped in the line also if that line is leaking a little bit.I think that those lines have reusable ends and you can pick up some high pressure line to replace it with.Or you could take it off and bring it to someone that makes lines like NAPA and they will make one up.I think the fittings are standard female 37 degree JIC.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Correction.After looking at the pictures,that line doesn't have the JIC fittings.It has standard pipe fittings (my guess would be 1/4 inch) but one end has a swivel end.NAPA should be able to fix you up anyway.

 

[OLDCHEV4X4]

My 002 genset was leaking from the same hoze. Its too sharp of a bend for that hoze. I took both hozes off and had them made 1" longer, then turned the check valve around 180 deg. This way the hoze has less of a bend and isn't stressed out.
My genset still ran even with diesel squirting out that hoze.

 

[OD_Coyote]

Check the lever that the fuel shut-off solenoid pushes against,which I think is also the throttle lever.Mine sticks closed and I have to move the lever as I am cranking it for it to start..

Mine sticks too. I always have to lift it prior to starting or she won't fire up.

 

[Armada]

Had a new fuel line made up today and installed it. So the fuel leak is no more but it still does not want to start. The fuel shutoff lever you guys mentioned is working correctly, it springs up when the solenoid is energized. I get a couple puffs of white smoke then nothing. It turns over fast when slaved to the cucv and the oil pressure runs right up according to the gauge so it's not a question of it turning over fast enough. It just seems that it's not getting the required fuel. It should be chugging clouds of white smoke when turning over, but instead I just get a couple puffs, and that's after letting it set awhile before cranking again. The glow plug/heater is also working. It gets the intake pipe nice and hot. I don't know what to check next? Make sure there is fuel to the injectors so I can rule out the injection pump? Ideas?

 

[doghead]

Are you following the starting procedure in the TM(also on the unit)? Is your throttle pulled half way out or more, while you are cranking it over(to start)?

 

[Armada]

Yep DH, and one minute on the preheater before cranking.

 

[doghead]

Maybe look at and clean the screens in the bottom of the pumps?(the bottoms twists off)
Have you confirmed unobstructed air intake system?
Maybe try no preheat and a shot of ether, once?

Not sure if the control circuit will still function but, are your battery leads correct(and it is turning over in the correct direction)?

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Definitely a fuel problem.Like you said,you should be getting lots of smoke.I just fired mine up after sitting for 6 months.It did the same thing.I ended up cracking the delivery line at the pump until no air came out.Tried cranking it again and it got better.It would fire once in a while.Then I ended up cracking the injector lines at the pump and cranked it.(even the blocked off lines if it is a 2 cylinder)Slowly it stared to get more fuel.Eventually it would fire enough to keep running but wouldn't rev up.I kept messing with the throttle lever and eventually it revved up and ran fine.I wouldn't doubt that my injector pump may need work.I noticed a small amount of fuel coming from the throttle shaft so maybe the fuel drained back to the tank.Just a guess.

 

[OD_Coyote]

If you have not tried it already, I would still lift the lever off of the solenoid just prior to cranking her over or get someone to turn over the engine whiie you lift the lever and see if the white smoke reappears.

 

[Armada]

UPDATE: It's ALIVE. Finally got it to run, but still have a problem. With everything indicating that no fuel was getting to the cylinders, I started checking lines all the way to the injectors. Fuel would spurt at each section I checked when the engine was cranked. OK, so the cylinders are getting juice. Why in the heck won't it run on it own?
I went back to the fuel shut-off solenoid. Here is my question: The solenoid retracts while the engine is being cranked, allowing the shut-off lever to open and let fuel flow, right? Now once the switch is released from the start/crank position and put into the prime/run position, shouldn't the solenoid remain retracted and the shut-off lever open so the engine continues to get fuel? That's the way my pea brain see's it as working.
Well on my genset, when the switch was on crank/start the solenoid retracted, and when put into the prime/run position the solenoid would release and close the fuel shut-off lever stopping the fuel flow.
When I rigged the solenoid in retracted position and cranked the engine over, it immediatly started. When I released the switch to the prime/run position it kept running!
Can someone check their genset to see if that solenoid stays retracted while in the prime/run position? Actually it should remain energized and open in all but the stop/off position, and maybe the preheat. If so, Guess my shut-off solenoid is bad, or moreso the switch isn't directing current in the right positions? Where can these parts be found?
It sounded great running, and the exhaust was clean with no smoke. It is also a lot quieter than my Mep-017 5K gas genset!

 

[doghead]

I don't have batteries in mine right now.
That solenoid is supposed to be energised whenever it is running. It is what shuts it off(when not powered by the control circuit). Here is the master switch connections, I took this from the schematic in the TM5-6115-584-34. Terminal 13 is tied to 14 and they supply the "governor solenoid" . Should have power on terminal 13(master control switch) in, run, prime run and start. It sounds like your switch is bad.

 

[mangus580]

Keep in mind, there is an oil pressure switch that needs to energize to keep it running. As well as an overtemp switch.

 

[doghead]

Mike, I think those are bypassed in the start position buy the 3 wires (numbers25, 27, 2 while cranking. (I didn't look close at them)

 

[mangus580]

Correct, but they would make the engine not run in the 'run' position....

 

[doghead]

I looked again and teminal 25, bypasses the oil pressure and the temp sensors(while cranking). So, if you do have power on 13 when it is supposed to, check those 2 switches for function. They are wired in series to the solenoid.

 

[Monkeyboyarmy]

Yep.Sometimes you have to hold the starter switch just a few seconds longer after it starts until oil pressure builds up and the oil pressure switch will close to keep the shut-off solenoid engaged.

 

[Armada]

Yep.Sometimes you have to hold the starter switch just a few seconds longer after it starts until oil pressure builds up and the oil pressure switch will close to keep the shut-off solenoid engaged.

According to the oil pressure gauge the pressure comes up almost immediately, so I don't think that's it in this case.
Well, I think I've got it fixed. I studied the schematic and went out and started chasing wires, etc. A buddy stopped by and I was explaining to him what had been going on with it. I had him crank it over while I held the shut-off solenoid plunger up in the retracted position with a screwdriver. It started and I let it run for a few minutes, the whole time moving the solenoid plunger up and down in short strokes, not enough to trip the shut-off lever. When I finally removed the screwdriver the plunger stayed up with the switch in the prime/run position and the engine kept running! I then turned the genset switch to stop and the solenoid tripped the shut-off lever and killed the engine. I cycled the switch again and started the genset and it again stayed running. I did this about a half a dozen times and everything worked properly.
Soooo, my conclusion is that since the genset had not been used since it's rebuild in Sept. '05 and had just been sitting idle, things corroded, and parts got sticky, etc. After cycling the solenoid a few dozen times, it finally 'freed' up and started working the way it was supposed to..... so far. I am elated. I also plugged a shop light into the 110v outlet while it was running and the light came on. The generator is putting out!
Thanks go to everyone for offering suggestions and ideas. It's great having 'brothers' with the same passions that you can discuss your OD problems with. Thanks again.
Now I can't wait for a power outage!