Mass Ownage
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My turbo is leaking oil, especially if I run it hard. I've done some searching and haven't been able to find any seal kits or anything. Any have any ideas where I could start?
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Leaking Turbo
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Mass Ownage
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My turbo is reads: Schwitzer 159832
rlwm211
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There's leaking oil, which is uncommon and SLOBBER which is common.
The question is, how much do you idle the truck?
Multi's are not very happy idling and if idled a lot will exhibit SLOBBER.
Slobber occurs when the engine is not up to temperature and the fuel is not completely burned and literally ozzes out of the turbo slobber tube.
This is a problem at idle as the combustion chamber is not up to operating temperature.
You said you see this after you run it hard. Is this after idling the truck beforehand for a long period of time?
There are articles in the PS article section of the RESOURCES portion of the site that address SLOBBER. Also SLOBBER has been discussed off and on so searching the the forum for turbo leaking might be a good idea.
Pictures always are helpful too!
Some additional information will help you get the help and advice you are looking for.
Hope this helps!
RL
The question is, how much do you idle the truck?
Multi's are not very happy idling and if idled a lot will exhibit SLOBBER.
Slobber occurs when the engine is not up to temperature and the fuel is not completely burned and literally ozzes out of the turbo slobber tube.
This is a problem at idle as the combustion chamber is not up to operating temperature.
You said you see this after you run it hard. Is this after idling the truck beforehand for a long period of time?
There are articles in the PS article section of the RESOURCES portion of the site that address SLOBBER. Also SLOBBER has been discussed off and on so searching the the forum for turbo leaking might be a good idea.
Pictures always are helpful too!
Some additional information will help you get the help and advice you are looking for.
Hope this helps!
RL
Mass Ownage
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My truck only idles at redlights.
jatonka
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To continue this thought, non turbo deuces have a tendancy to slobber more than turbo deuces at idle. Idling below 1000-1200 RPM for extended periods is asking for exhaust slobber, just the nature of the engine design. Now, if your turbo multifuel is not idled much, I think you have a turbo seal problem. If that is the case, replace it or have it repaired now. if you leave it, the bearing can fail and when the impeller hits the housing, parts will go into your combustion chambers, not good. Or, if the inlet side seal goes, your engine will runaway on tthe oil entering the combustion chambers, also not good. These are worst case scenarios, but, if your luck is like mine................................ The out come isn't good
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mrcucv
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I think you might have to replace the whole turbo to fix that problem. not sure but i know on the trucks i work on we always do. guaranteed those trucks arent a duece. but either replace or rebuild the turbo and get it fixed up right
gimpyrobb
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WOW JT thats bad! You have the option of sending your turbo to Ken in Tx or Jwaller in Sc(I think). Both are good at what they do.
Wolf.Dose
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You can not rebuild the turbo at home, you need a new one, on better, a good one!
Turbos have a max rpm of about 100,000 to 120,000. Any home work on that is fatal and might end in a desaster.
Wolf
Turbos have a max rpm of about 100,000 to 120,000. Any home work on that is fatal and might end in a desaster.
Wolf
Mass Ownage
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We rebuild a couple turbo's on old ford's. Didn't figure this would be much harder, just don't know where to find the seals.
Mass Ownage
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You can rebuild at home. I did it last week. Trucks running good. The o-ring on he intake side was bad. Took a bit to find one but it's running good. They are actually fairly easy to take apart and put back together. Broke a set of tips on my snap-ring pliers though.
feets
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For those not familiar with them, turbos do not have conventional shaft seals. They spin so fast that rubber seals would die. Instead, they have close tolerance "slingers" that are hard and keep the oil from splashing on the shaft. If the oil return line is plugged or runs uphill the oil will back up in the turbo and it'll smoke like a Cheech and Chong movie.
One thing to be really careful with is the balance. They MUST be properly balanced to prevent self destruction at 100,000+ rpm. At those speeds any problem is a BIG problem.
I've eaten a couple turbos on my hot rod. One due to foreign object damage. It's neither pretty nor cheap when that happens.
One thing to be really careful with is the balance. They MUST be properly balanced to prevent self destruction at 100,000+ rpm. At those speeds any problem is a BIG problem.
I've eaten a couple turbos on my hot rod. One due to foreign object damage. It's neither pretty nor cheap when that happens.
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You right about the balence. If your not dead on, it won't last very long. They will start to vibrate and wear the bearing prematurely. And or the rotor will colide with the housings. This is garenteed to ruin your day. There is a very small unbalence tolerence for them. If you decide to take ane apart. Make sure to mark the shaft along with the compressor wheel. And make sure you have the marks lined up during reassembly. They are balenced together as a unit. Any deavation will cause problems.