Voltage doesn't equal current. Still need to verify. A broken wire will show voltage with a single strand hanging on but can't support current draw.
Exactly. Also possible to have correct voltage at the end of the wire with a short to ground elsewhere. Not enough current to support the load even though voltage can be seen.
So while waiting for the second shift to show up, i swapped the leads from high to low at the bulbs. Now they don't fade out BUT, the high beam indicator is on when the low beams are on.
Wtf?
No need to go directly to battery as we verified vvoltage at the wire.
We are talking about Swiss's M923 correct? I assume so but wanted to check.
When ya'll did the grounds by hand, did you go directly to the frame or somewhere on the grill or hood? There is a ground strap on the driverside that connects hood to frame that can cause issues with grounding of the whole hood.
You can bypass the whole hood harness by testing a light directly at the dimmer switch in the floorboard. 1 wire is positive input and should stay connected. The other 2 are positive outputs, one for high and one for low. In low, only one will be hot. In high, both will he hot. Use 2 of the male/male bulkhead connectors from the headlight bucket to connect directly to the switch, then ground light to the frame.
If the light tested fine at the batteries and works properly at the switch then you have a wiring issue in the hood harness or ground. If it shows the same symptoms, I'd be suspecting the dimmer switch.
It's not uncommon to have wiring issues show up when swapping to LEDs. Poor connections can "make" with the higher loads from incandescents, where the low draw from LEDs can't. I lost my driverside headlight to a bad ground right before the rally last year. The connector was not completely inserted.
