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Lift questions

3000gt

New member
177
1
0
Location
hernando ms
My m1038 has 40 inch mud tires that are rubbing when I'm off road. I have plenty of clearance on rear so I only want to lift front 2 inches. I've read some people advise against suspension lift.

Would body lift be better? Is so do I make one or buy from company?
Should I just cut fender hood?

Any help would be appreciated
 

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Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
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Location
East Tennessee
Is the winch pulling the front down in that pic, because it looks too low compared to the rear. It could be as simple as worn springs. If you want to raise the entire thing 2". you can but the body mount brackets for a 2006 H1 Alpha. They are 2" taller.
These usually have about the same distance from tire to fender and tire to hood when standing alone..
 

3000gt

New member
177
1
0
Location
hernando ms
Is the winch pulling the front down in that pic, because it looks too low compared to the rear. It could be as simple as worn springs. If you want to raise the entire thing 2". you can but the body mount brackets for a 2006 H1 Alpha. They are 2" taller.
These usually have about the same distance from tire to fender and tire to hood when standing alone..
Nope this is how it sits just need 2 more inches Story of my life
 

dilvoy

Active member
733
25
28
Location
San Francisco, Ca.
I made a three inch lift myself, but I had to move the hole where the steering shaft passes through the body tub. Two inches might allow you to only have to re position the boot. I went to a metal fabricator and looked through the scrap area where they saved bits and pieces and found an aluminum rod that was near enough to the diameter as the body bushings to do the job. I had then cut them to size and bore a hole through all six of them. Total cost was about $225. You will have to lower the fuel tank the same amount as the lift by extending the straps that it hangs on. Easiest is to buy new straps and use both old and new to make the longer version so you have lots of overlap to bolt through or weld together. Then you need to make blocks for the hood too. The lift needs to be the same front to back so the fuel tank fits properly next to the Transfer Case and Driveshaft.
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
Nope this is how it sits just need 2 more inches Story of my life
Saggy front springs are not fixed by raising the body. I don't know that yours have gone bad, just saying the gaps should be close front to back. Yours are not.
You could also get heavier springs used with snowplows and winch equipped Hummers.
 

3000gt

New member
177
1
0
Location
hernando ms
Saggy front springs are not fixed by raising the body. I don't know that yours have gone bad, just saying the gaps should be close front to back. Yours are not.
You could also get heavier springs used with snowplows and winch equipped Hummers.
Just bought some hope your right :)
 

juanprado

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
5,638
2,957
113
Location
Metairie/La (N'awlins)
SIde question as it perked my curiosity;

When installing a front milemarker hyd winch in a non winch truck, is it best to also change front springs? I did not envision the winch making that much difference in weight to justify springs?
 

Retiredwarhorses

Well-known member
Steel Soldiers Supporter
4,414
4,209
113
Location
Brentwood, Calif
[HR][/HR]Springs, usage, load and coil diameter:Front Springs
Years - 1998-2002
P/N - 12338316-1
Tie Wrap - Yellow
Spring Rate - 954 in/#
Free Length - 13.36"
Coil Diameter - 0.904"
Usage - Standard 2-doors - 10,300/10,800 w/o winch (gassers - 2dr with winch, 4dr Soft Top, 4 dr Hard Top, Wagon)

Years - 1998-2006
P/N - 6005787
Tie Wrap - Red
Spring Rate - 954
Free Length - 14.00
Coil Diameter - 0.925
Usage - Ext. Height 2-door 10,300 w/Winch - all 4 doors w/o winch (gassers - 4dr soft top w/winch, 4dr Hard top w/winch, Wagon w/winch)


Years - 1998-2006
P/N - 6005786
Tie Wrap - Orange
Spring Rate - 1250
Free Length - 13.36
Coil Diameter - 0.980
Usage - All 4-doors 10,300/10,800 - w/winch

Years - 1998-1999
P/N - 12338316-2
Tie - Wrap - Green
Spring Rate - 1728
Coil Diameter - 1.044
Usage - Heavy Duty - 10,800/12,100 & all w/snow plow



Years - 1998-1999
P/N - RCSK18428-1
Tie Wrap - N/A
Spring Rate - 3000
Coil Diameter - 1.088
Usage - X-Heavy Duty 12,100 & Heavy Duty Fire Truck Option 12,100

Years - 2000-2006
P/N - 6011072
Tie Wrap - White
Spring Rate - 1728
Coil Diameter - 1.030
Usage - Heavy Duty - 10,800/12,100 & fire Trucks or w/snow plow



Rear Springs
Years - 1998-2006
P/N - 12342616
Tie Wrap - Gray
Spring Rate - Variable
Coil Diameter - 0.8 / 1.26
Usage - Standard 10,300/10,800 - w/o optional heavy duty equipment

Years - 1998-1999 P/N - 12338316-3
Tie Wrap - Green
Spring Rate - 2108
Coil Diameter - 1.044
Usage - Heavy Duty 10,800 - w/o Rear Heavy Duty Equipment


Years - 1998-2001
P/N - 6006008
Tie Wrap - N/A
Spring Rate - 2300
Coil Diameter - 1.215
Usage - Standard 10,800&1998 Heavy Duty 12,100 or option 10,800



Years - 1999
P/N - RCSK18428-2
Tie Wrap - N/A
Spring Rate - 3000
Coil Diameter - 1.271
Usage - X-Heavy Duty for Fire Trucks - Optional on 12,100

Year - 2000-2006
P/N - 6011073
Tie Wrap - Yellow/Red
Spring Rate - 3000
Coil Diameter - 1.295
Usage - Heavy Duty 12,100
 

Action

Well-known member
3,576
1,559
113
Location
East Tennessee
i had to adjust the height of the frame with a jack to get my sway bar back on....meaning...leave the wheels on the ground and start jacking up the front end.
 
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