Lifting the m1008

[jccomer9]

So I finally got to start work on the truck yesterday. Got the rims sandblasted and got the first 2 coats of flat black on them. Also got the bed taken off, removed the spare tire and hanger, cut the exhaust and removed the last bracket on each side since they were no longer needed. I plan to actually get started on the lift here in about 30 minutes. I have a question though. Since I am lifting the truck 4" do I need to do anything about making the arm on the brake proportioning valve longer? Any help or input is much appreciated. And since I know threads are useless without pics I promise I will post them later.

 

[truck1]

Yes you will need to lengthen the arm by about 3 inches if I remember correctly. I removed mine from the valve and cut and spliced (welded ) in a piece of flat bar. Search is your friend on this site. There are many detailed threads with pics regarding this subject.Good luck.

 

[jccomer9]

So what seems like a year later im almost done with the lift. All I have left to do is readjust the pitman arm since im pretty sure we put it on 1 tooth off (wont turn all the way to the left now) and fix 3 of my rims. I had my 13 year old brother put the rims back together and 3 of them are leaking, 1 from a valve stem he didnt even tighten and I think the other 2 he didnt seat the o-ring properly. Also probably gonna order zero rates for the front to levek the truck and push the axle forward otherwise I will have to cut a lot out of the back side of the fender. Other than that and putting the bed back on im done. I think...

 

[Cucvnut]

You will need cross over with zero rates

 

[twomorestrokes]

You will need cross over with zero rates

I have zeros in the front with stock steering and the steering wheel is centered too. Axle is also forward one inch.

 

[jccomer9]

So yesterday I did some work, repositioned the pitman arm and adjusted the drag link so now my steering is good minus the steering wheel being off center. Busted down the rims again, cleaned mating surfaces and checked orings and valve stems, now I have 2 tires that hold, 1 with very slow leak and didnt get to airing up the other. Also managed to get the bed back on with just 2 people (cherry picker and a few ratchet straps). Also painted the grill and headlight frames flat black. And btw, if anyone shoukd decide to remove the bed on their truck, remember to disconnect the breather hose for the diff, it tends to break if you dont. Now im just waiting for the zero rates to come in so I can throw the 37s on the front. Feel kinda stupid driving around with the 31s on the front and 37s on the rear. Lol.

 

[Recovry4x4]

You will need cross over with zero rates

I have zeros in the front with stock steering and the steering wheel is centered too. Axle is also forward one inch.

Did you not read the above? Turn in the title and part the truck! LOL

 

[twomorestrokes]

Jccomer9, I reused my old o rings but bedded them in vaseline after making sure the grooves were clean. Worked great, no leaks.

Recovery4x4, I don't get it.

 

[Cucvnut]

he is making a joke at my expence its ok lol.

 

[patracy]

I have zeros in the front with stock steering and the steering wheel is centered too. Axle is also forward one inch.

I've got 6 or 8" springs up front of mine as well. Have stock steering with a block and drag link. No problems here either. I can turn left and right fine as well.