lighted indicator display

[m-35tom]

Anyone with a A0 have a faded and ugly display? The actual 1/16" thick panel is easily replaceable but just not available. I am making some if anyone wants them, cost will be determined soon but it is a not for profit thing.

 

[Awesomeness]

Are you talking about the warning light panel in the top center of the dash?

 

[m-35tom]

Yes, that is called the lighted indicator display, right above the speedo. Only for A0 models. Also can get new keypad membrane for WtecII, about $48.
[h=1][/h]

 

[coachgeo]

I'de be interested in both if reasonable

 

[Awesomeness]

I'm interested in learning more, yeah.

 

[m-35tom]

I will probably have about 30 made, economy of scale and all.

Wtec II pad before and after:

 

[coachgeo]

I will probably have about 30 made, economy of scale and all.

Wtec II pad before and after:View attachment 747120View attachment 747121

by your photo suspect this change does not replace the screen above the shift buttons?

 

[m-35tom]

No, but I may be able to get that as well, it just glues in and would be easy to replace with something else. The key pad requires a precut sticky tape thing that I have not gotten yet, will check on it Monday.

 

[aleigh]

My keys are cracking, I didn't realize it was a cover thing over the actual buttons... Very interesting. I kind of live in fear that the D button will actually break as those membrane keys always seem to eventually and I'll be stranded somewhere with the stupidest of problems. I keep meaning to look up to see if there's another way to get into D like from the diagnostic mode or whatever.

 

[319cssb]

If the d button breaks youll just solder in a tactile switch , easy.

 

[m-35tom]

I doubt the actual switch would ever break, it is a metal key-pad dome switch under a plastic lighted holder. Just that the top membrane would let in dirt and water, very bad then.
[h=1][/h]

 

[319cssb]

I doubt the actual switch would ever break, it is a metal key-pad dome switch under a plastic lighted holder. Just that the top membrane would let in dirt and water, very bad then.

little do you know, the dome cracks . I've seen that many times

 

[aleigh]

little do you know, the dome cracks . I've seen that many times

Concur, seen that a lot.

 

[m-35tom]

OK, well they are about .40 each so no real problem to repair.

 

[319cssb]

That is what i was saying earlier. Replace with tactile switches, they last forever almost.

 

[m-35tom]

now I am confused. The CTIS is tactile dome switch and the trans control are tactile dome switch.

 

[aleigh]

I have never taken apart the allison panel, but I did get into a ctis module, and I've seen a lot of these kinds of bubble switches before. They are single piece films with the switches laminated inside, custom made for the specific application. You don't just find them off the shelf. They are often ribbon film leads onto the PCB also. If you can retrofit these with tactical switches for 40 cents a piece, you just found a new business... More often than not what really happens it the bubble eventually cracks, the entire film needs to be replaced (all the buttons), and you can't buy the part anywhere.

 

[319cssb]

I have never taken apart the allison panel, but I did get into a ctis module, and I've seen a lot of these kinds of bubble switches before. They are single piece films with the switches laminated inside, custom made for the specific application. You don't just find them off the shelf. They are often ribbon film leads onto the PCB also. If you can retrofit these with tactical switches for 40 cents a piece, you just found a new business... More often than not what really happens it the bubble eventually cracks, the entire film needs to be replaced (all the buttons), and you can't buy the part anywhere.

The dome makes contact when its been depressed and closes the circuit. You solder the switch inbetween the two contacts. I have a spae ctis unit and have a go with installing some tactile switches. Maybe ill disect a transmission keypad too and see what i can come up with.

Update: it looks like I threw that CTIS eco out. It was broken.

 

[m-35tom]

The dome switches are never soldered. They just sit there inside the adhesive coating that holds the membrane. My 94 LMTV with Eaton CTIS also uses tactile dome switches which are separate parts from the membrane. Nickle plated stainless, I have never seen them crack.
"More often than not what really happens is the bubble eventually cracks, the entire film needs to be replaced (all the buttons), and you can't buy the part anywhere." not so the parts can be custom made. And cheaply.
Before you say 'little do I know", you should know more than me. I guess not this time.

 

[aleigh]

You're quoting me, but I'm not the one that said "little do you know"...

What's your supplier for bubble switch panels? I've got some I'd like to get made for a different application.